SRW 450 Mountain Build
- Thread starter cph05a
- Start date
cph05a
Member
Shower updates ... with a some science and numbers this time.
So at this point there have been more than 15 showers on the same water (sorta lost count after 15). We've been really trying to put it to the test so we've been taking longer showers and using a ton of soap. More soap than we usually do even in the house shower. The water seems fine when showering in it, but we decided to actually test it and see what's in it.
What's not in our water:
We found that our water contains no Chlorine, Chloride, Copper, Iron, Chromium, Nitrate, Nitrite, Lead, Silver, Mercury, Phosphate, hard water, or bacteria.
What's in it:
At first we tested high for total dissolved solids (TDS) at between 500 and 750ppm. This turned out to be due to testing the water after it comes out of the shower head filter which adds vitamin C to the water. When we tested without the shower head filter this came down to about 100ppm. The USEPA wants TDS to be under 500ppm for drinking water, so 100ppm before the shower filter doesn't seem too bad.
We saw that we had 1ppm of zinc and the USEPA wants this to be under 5ppm for drinking water which it is, so it's okay.
We tested slightly higher than 0ppm in sulfate, but it not high enough to register at the next value up in our kit. The USEPA wants this to be less than 250ppm for drinking water and we were definitely well under that.
We also tested positive for pesticides! I kept reading and re-reading the ingredients of our soaps to try to determine what was causing us to test positive for pesticides and I couldn't figure it out so we ended up testing the house water that we filled the camper with initially and we tested positive for pesticides there too. So... that's good to know! We might add a RO filter at home now. Apparently we've been showering in pesticides for years so we're not too concerned with it in the camper, but maybe it's a good reason to upgrade our drinking water.
Our only main concern with the shower water that we ended up with were a slight acidic ph which was somewhere between 5 and 6.5. Our kit didn't read this very precisely so I ordered a digital PH tester to monitor this a little bit more closely. We found that we can control this by adding a small amount of baking soda to bring the PH up as needed and we will probably get fresh water in the tank about every 10 showers or so when using this for real.
Obviously we didn't test every possible thing under the sun, but it was a lot of useful info. I think the water would actually be safe to drink, but we're not planning to drink it.
We start using a direct connection for the water recycler since our grey water bladder was always empty. This makes set up a little bit simpler. Our water recycler is capable of filtering water faster than we're showering with which is nice. I do have an insulated sleeve for the hose that we can use in the cold as needed.
Since we were happy with testing, I secured these down for the ride. Instead of mounting them from the top, they're sitting on the floor secured in little cubbies. I can pull them up out of the cubbies which makes it easy to replace the filters when the time comes. I can replace the first two filters from the exterior camper door without having to lift the system out the cubbies.
I starting putting a lot of thought into how often I want to replace these. Each of these filters comes with a lifetime expectation in terms of gallons of water filtered, but they say that this varies depending on water quality. I took that to mean that because I'm putting soap through this that this is poor water quality. My plan is to try to replace them at less than 1/4th of their estimated lifespan in terms of gallons.
If we were living in this full time (we're not full-timing yet) and taking 100% of our showers off grid, we'd replace our 5micron carbon block filter and our 20 micron pleated filter about 3 times a year. The 5 micron pleated filter gets replaced every 6 months and the 0.5 micron filter gets replaced once a year. I think this is overkill. I really think the filters can handle more than this, but it brings it down to about $1.30 USD per 30 minute shower which is acceptable for us. We might change this schedule as we get more experience with the system, but for now this is roughly what I'm shooting for.
So at this point there have been more than 15 showers on the same water (sorta lost count after 15). We've been really trying to put it to the test so we've been taking longer showers and using a ton of soap. More soap than we usually do even in the house shower. The water seems fine when showering in it, but we decided to actually test it and see what's in it.
What's not in our water:
We found that our water contains no Chlorine, Chloride, Copper, Iron, Chromium, Nitrate, Nitrite, Lead, Silver, Mercury, Phosphate, hard water, or bacteria.
What's in it:
At first we tested high for total dissolved solids (TDS) at between 500 and 750ppm. This turned out to be due to testing the water after it comes out of the shower head filter which adds vitamin C to the water. When we tested without the shower head filter this came down to about 100ppm. The USEPA wants TDS to be under 500ppm for drinking water, so 100ppm before the shower filter doesn't seem too bad.
We saw that we had 1ppm of zinc and the USEPA wants this to be under 5ppm for drinking water which it is, so it's okay.
We tested slightly higher than 0ppm in sulfate, but it not high enough to register at the next value up in our kit. The USEPA wants this to be less than 250ppm for drinking water and we were definitely well under that.
We also tested positive for pesticides! I kept reading and re-reading the ingredients of our soaps to try to determine what was causing us to test positive for pesticides and I couldn't figure it out so we ended up testing the house water that we filled the camper with initially and we tested positive for pesticides there too. So... that's good to know! We might add a RO filter at home now. Apparently we've been showering in pesticides for years so we're not too concerned with it in the camper, but maybe it's a good reason to upgrade our drinking water.
Our only main concern with the shower water that we ended up with were a slight acidic ph which was somewhere between 5 and 6.5. Our kit didn't read this very precisely so I ordered a digital PH tester to monitor this a little bit more closely. We found that we can control this by adding a small amount of baking soda to bring the PH up as needed and we will probably get fresh water in the tank about every 10 showers or so when using this for real.
Obviously we didn't test every possible thing under the sun, but it was a lot of useful info. I think the water would actually be safe to drink, but we're not planning to drink it.
We start using a direct connection for the water recycler since our grey water bladder was always empty. This makes set up a little bit simpler. Our water recycler is capable of filtering water faster than we're showering with which is nice. I do have an insulated sleeve for the hose that we can use in the cold as needed.
Since we were happy with testing, I secured these down for the ride. Instead of mounting them from the top, they're sitting on the floor secured in little cubbies. I can pull them up out of the cubbies which makes it easy to replace the filters when the time comes. I can replace the first two filters from the exterior camper door without having to lift the system out the cubbies.
I starting putting a lot of thought into how often I want to replace these. Each of these filters comes with a lifetime expectation in terms of gallons of water filtered, but they say that this varies depending on water quality. I took that to mean that because I'm putting soap through this that this is poor water quality. My plan is to try to replace them at less than 1/4th of their estimated lifespan in terms of gallons.
If we were living in this full time (we're not full-timing yet) and taking 100% of our showers off grid, we'd replace our 5micron carbon block filter and our 20 micron pleated filter about 3 times a year. The 5 micron pleated filter gets replaced every 6 months and the 0.5 micron filter gets replaced once a year. I think this is overkill. I really think the filters can handle more than this, but it brings it down to about $1.30 USD per 30 minute shower which is acceptable for us. We might change this schedule as we get more experience with the system, but for now this is roughly what I'm shooting for.
Last edited:
Ninelitetrip
Well-known member
Interesting setup. Why choose the 1/4 life replacement, instead of say 1/2? Have you determined how you will use UVC yet?
cph05a
Member
1/4 was a wild ass guess. It seemed like a reasonable assumption given that I'm intentionally putting really dirty water through it. Over time I might adjust the schedule.
I did order a 13W aquarium UVC sterilizer but it hasn't arrived yet and it's looking like I won't get it for a while. Because I'm filtering down to 0.5 microns there likely won't be any bacteria or cysts that get transferred from the shower to the water tank, but if the water sits in the tank over time it's possible to get contaminated, especially if I access the water in the tank to test the ph or add baking soda or something. I'll be able to drop the UVC sterilizer into tank for a little bit to prevent anything possibly in the tank from reproducing. I think if the shower is being used every day I won't have to do this because the filter will do it for me, but if it's going to sit a bit I will have the option of blasting it with UVC just to make sure.
Darwin
Explorer
If the water sits, a drop of bleach in the tank might help prevent bacteria from forming. It would then be filtered out in the system. If you had a website or something it would be awesome to see a lot of details of the system with schematics etc. I had written off a recirculating shower for my build, figuring it to be to complex, expensive and prone to failure, but if can work good which it sounds like your new design is, it my be worth it.
cph05a
Member
My UVC sterilizer finally arrived and I installed it into my camper. It's a little different than some others I've seen. Rather than do an inline UVC sterilizer in the filter system, I opted for a submersible sterilizer for the water tank. My reasoning was that the water coming out of a 0.5 micron filter should be pretty clean already, but water that sits in a tank for a while might eventually grow something if it's not EXACTLY air tight. I think it probably is air tight and this probably isn't necessary, but it was easy enough to install for good measure.
My tank has a 3" raised square clean out plug in it. I took one of these and put a whole in it and ran the UVC light cord through it and filled the gap with epoxy to keep it secure. I can screw in the light and if I winterize it, I can still put the old plug back in.
The shower tank is now complete!
My tank has a 3" raised square clean out plug in it. I took one of these and put a whole in it and ran the UVC light cord through it and filled the gap with epoxy to keep it secure. I can screw in the light and if I winterize it, I can still put the old plug back in.
The shower tank is now complete!
cph05a
Member
I haven't found any DC ones either. Mine is on 120v ac plugged into a little mini inverter.
cph05a
Member
It's been a little over 8 months and I can confidently say that we've used the camper in all seasons and weather conditions at this point so it's time for another update, mostly on our our summer experiences.
Off-grid air conditioner:
The most interesting new thing that we've been using is the air conditioner. My wife and I just got back from a trip in Ten Sleep, WY and it was HOT. Hot for us is about 91F (or about 33C). I've been using a the air conditioner off and on, but this was the first trip where we used it extensively. It definitely works, but managing the state of charge of our batteries is something we have to pay close attention.
The air conditioner we have is a Keystone brand window unit mounted in our back wall. It uses 115V and 4.6A so that's 526W of power required. Our actual power usage is likely higher when using this since we also have the fridge running and we're converting DC to AC using a pure sine inverter and there are fans keeping the power management system and inverters cool, but when running the air conditioner in eco mode, it's not constantly using the full 526W all the time (unless we do something dumb that makes it work harder). Our solar array is a 640W array which consists of 4 160W Renogy solar panels. In a perfect world, we should be getting 640W of solar, but up in northern Wyoming in the summer, we would usually see a max of 500W of power since the sun isn't ever directly over the panels.
Most days we would wake up and the batteries would charge for a few hours in the sun before it gets hot enough out that actually need (or want) the air conditioner, then we'd turn it on and leave it on for pretty much the rest of the day. We'd come back and the batteries would be lower than when we left. We usually got back as the sun was going down and we'd turn off the air conditioner then. There was usually enough time in the morning to get the batteries mostly back but we were losing power each day little by little if we weren't driving the truck. This was pretty much the best we could do. One day we left the vent fan on which was pumping that 90 degree air in from outside and we ran through about 80 percent of our battery that day since we were making the unit work harder. Another time I accidentally hit the switch for my electric oil pan heaters (500W total) which were running at the same time as the air conditioner and that ran through the whole battery that day. So there are definitely some things we can do right and wrong in terms of using the air conditioner off grid, but if we do everything right, we can get through a few sunny days while using the unit and not having to drive every day.
Long drives at night definitely charge the batteries up. Our batteries are always full after a good drive. In hindsight I would have added one more panel. I still might add one some day. There's definitely enough space for one more.
Recirculating shower:
We've been taking a lot of showers on our trips. It's been really nice! We've pretty much got it down but learning how to use it took a bit of getting use to. For example, if too much air gets in the line, then the filters run kinda slow so I've gotten in the habit of turning the water systems on and bleeding the air out (we have a button for it on our filters) and then showering. Also our Girard water heater has a timer on it so if more than one person showers at a time, we have to turn it off and on between showers so that it doesn't time out and shut off. We also have to keep the mesh filter clean since our camper and all of us get covered in dog and cat hair and it all ends up in the shower. All simple things, but we learned each one the hard way. It's a great feature to have.
Roof:
I feel like I need to mention the roof since I've seen a lot of threads with people complaining that older Phoenix Pop Up campers leak. I've been watching ours closely to see. Ours never has leaked and I don't quite see how it would since there really aren't a lot of seams in the roof. It seems like maybe they build the roofs differently now than when they used to 15 years ago. I know my Northstar camper had a lot of seams in the roof construction. It's seen a lot of rain and snow at this point and if it was going to leak I think we would know by know.
Fridge:
We love our Isotherm Cruise 130! If we turn it up all the way we'll freeze everything in it, so we have it down at about 50%. It just works. It doesn't seem to matter if we're on a hill or driving or what it just always works. It's pretty spacious. I had so many problems with the (older) Dometic fridge I had in the old Northstar that I quit using it as a fridge and just kept frozen gatorade bottles in it to keep it cold like an icebox. Having a good fridge is very nice.
Recent Problems:
It's really hard for me to see around tight turns at night in our F-450 so we ordered some additional lights that Dusty Dog Garage is going to install for us soon. Hopefully that'll fix that. We also broke the plate that holds our dinette table in place while offroading. I ended up getting new plates to replace them (they're cheap). The plates are hollow and I filled them in with epoxy to try to make them stronger this time. I noticed that the livingstone camper had a similar issue here: https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/off-road/extreme-rigs/how-to-build-a-world-ready-rig-part-2/
We also had our starter fail (it was a remanufactured one) so we had a new one put in.
Other than that, things have been running pretty smoothly.
Off-grid air conditioner:
The most interesting new thing that we've been using is the air conditioner. My wife and I just got back from a trip in Ten Sleep, WY and it was HOT. Hot for us is about 91F (or about 33C). I've been using a the air conditioner off and on, but this was the first trip where we used it extensively. It definitely works, but managing the state of charge of our batteries is something we have to pay close attention.
The air conditioner we have is a Keystone brand window unit mounted in our back wall. It uses 115V and 4.6A so that's 526W of power required. Our actual power usage is likely higher when using this since we also have the fridge running and we're converting DC to AC using a pure sine inverter and there are fans keeping the power management system and inverters cool, but when running the air conditioner in eco mode, it's not constantly using the full 526W all the time (unless we do something dumb that makes it work harder). Our solar array is a 640W array which consists of 4 160W Renogy solar panels. In a perfect world, we should be getting 640W of solar, but up in northern Wyoming in the summer, we would usually see a max of 500W of power since the sun isn't ever directly over the panels.
Most days we would wake up and the batteries would charge for a few hours in the sun before it gets hot enough out that actually need (or want) the air conditioner, then we'd turn it on and leave it on for pretty much the rest of the day. We'd come back and the batteries would be lower than when we left. We usually got back as the sun was going down and we'd turn off the air conditioner then. There was usually enough time in the morning to get the batteries mostly back but we were losing power each day little by little if we weren't driving the truck. This was pretty much the best we could do. One day we left the vent fan on which was pumping that 90 degree air in from outside and we ran through about 80 percent of our battery that day since we were making the unit work harder. Another time I accidentally hit the switch for my electric oil pan heaters (500W total) which were running at the same time as the air conditioner and that ran through the whole battery that day. So there are definitely some things we can do right and wrong in terms of using the air conditioner off grid, but if we do everything right, we can get through a few sunny days while using the unit and not having to drive every day.
Long drives at night definitely charge the batteries up. Our batteries are always full after a good drive. In hindsight I would have added one more panel. I still might add one some day. There's definitely enough space for one more.
Recirculating shower:
We've been taking a lot of showers on our trips. It's been really nice! We've pretty much got it down but learning how to use it took a bit of getting use to. For example, if too much air gets in the line, then the filters run kinda slow so I've gotten in the habit of turning the water systems on and bleeding the air out (we have a button for it on our filters) and then showering. Also our Girard water heater has a timer on it so if more than one person showers at a time, we have to turn it off and on between showers so that it doesn't time out and shut off. We also have to keep the mesh filter clean since our camper and all of us get covered in dog and cat hair and it all ends up in the shower. All simple things, but we learned each one the hard way. It's a great feature to have.
Roof:
I feel like I need to mention the roof since I've seen a lot of threads with people complaining that older Phoenix Pop Up campers leak. I've been watching ours closely to see. Ours never has leaked and I don't quite see how it would since there really aren't a lot of seams in the roof. It seems like maybe they build the roofs differently now than when they used to 15 years ago. I know my Northstar camper had a lot of seams in the roof construction. It's seen a lot of rain and snow at this point and if it was going to leak I think we would know by know.
Fridge:
We love our Isotherm Cruise 130! If we turn it up all the way we'll freeze everything in it, so we have it down at about 50%. It just works. It doesn't seem to matter if we're on a hill or driving or what it just always works. It's pretty spacious. I had so many problems with the (older) Dometic fridge I had in the old Northstar that I quit using it as a fridge and just kept frozen gatorade bottles in it to keep it cold like an icebox. Having a good fridge is very nice.
Recent Problems:
It's really hard for me to see around tight turns at night in our F-450 so we ordered some additional lights that Dusty Dog Garage is going to install for us soon. Hopefully that'll fix that. We also broke the plate that holds our dinette table in place while offroading. I ended up getting new plates to replace them (they're cheap). The plates are hollow and I filled them in with epoxy to try to make them stronger this time. I noticed that the livingstone camper had a similar issue here: https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/off-road/extreme-rigs/how-to-build-a-world-ready-rig-part-2/
We also had our starter fail (it was a remanufactured one) so we had a new one put in.
Other than that, things have been running pretty smoothly.
Thanks again for sharing your Crazy Build hard work and creativity!
So now it's >1yr later. Any other "wish I had known then, what I know now" observations?
Also, I'm trying finish up my build sheet and looking at a Carrier for a Dual-Sport Motorcycle (key for scout ahead on single lane mtn jeep tracks before committing with hugeness of F350 rig; exploring old mining roads, and emergency transport if rig breaks down).
Having a hard time finding an off the shelf version for true offroad overlanding. Almost all racks seem to only use a single receiver, which leads to lots of moto movements on washboards / rough roads which stress the mount to point of breaking. Ditto with tradeoff of lowering the bike enough to allow one person to mount the bike (eg, whether a hydraulic arm or a _long_ ramp) but carrying high enough in the air that it doesn't drag / destroy one's departure angle.
I thought of possibilities with your davit / winch on your rear spare tire swing out rack!
You mention that your monster tire is 201lbs. The moto will be more like 280lbs-300lbs (wet weight).
I reread where you reinforced the rack after experiencing movement and rack cracks (https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/srw-450-mountain-build.203729/page-5). How has it been working since the upgrade?
I couldn't tell if when you said you attached at all 4 corners (instead of just 2 corners, w-pin & padlock), does that stop the rack from being able to swing out?
If so, how do you access the rear compartment?
Does that have a pullout "basement" drawer in it??
Lastly, I saw that you put in an electronic rear view mirror. How has that been working for you?
If you'd use the same again, what make/model is it?
Any chance you're going to Overland West in Flagstaff next month? Would love to buy you dinner there!
So now it's >1yr later. Any other "wish I had known then, what I know now" observations?
Also, I'm trying finish up my build sheet and looking at a Carrier for a Dual-Sport Motorcycle (key for scout ahead on single lane mtn jeep tracks before committing with hugeness of F350 rig; exploring old mining roads, and emergency transport if rig breaks down).
Having a hard time finding an off the shelf version for true offroad overlanding. Almost all racks seem to only use a single receiver, which leads to lots of moto movements on washboards / rough roads which stress the mount to point of breaking. Ditto with tradeoff of lowering the bike enough to allow one person to mount the bike (eg, whether a hydraulic arm or a _long_ ramp) but carrying high enough in the air that it doesn't drag / destroy one's departure angle.
I thought of possibilities with your davit / winch on your rear spare tire swing out rack!
You mention that your monster tire is 201lbs. The moto will be more like 280lbs-300lbs (wet weight).
I reread where you reinforced the rack after experiencing movement and rack cracks (https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/srw-450-mountain-build.203729/page-5). How has it been working since the upgrade?
I couldn't tell if when you said you attached at all 4 corners (instead of just 2 corners, w-pin & padlock), does that stop the rack from being able to swing out?
If so, how do you access the rear compartment?
Does that have a pullout "basement" drawer in it??
Lastly, I saw that you put in an electronic rear view mirror. How has that been working for you?
If you'd use the same again, what make/model is it?
Any chance you're going to Overland West in Flagstaff next month? Would love to buy you dinner there!
cph05a
Member
Ever since phoenix rebuilt the tire rack with all the reinforcements we've had zero issues with it. I've checked it over and over finally stopped thinking about it. It's rock solid. We've driven a lot of dirt roads and done a little bit of off roading since the rack was rebuilt.
The tire rack swings out to access the rear compartment. The right side of the tire rack has wing nuts. You can hand unscrew these wing nuts, pull the bolt out and swing the rack out of the way to get to that compartment. It's a door that opens into the storage box that doubles as our rear dinette seat. I've never actually done it out on a trip though. Ever. This includes a few trips were we didn't have the tire rack on the camper and we still didn't use the rear doors. That rear compartment is also accessible from doors on either side of the camper, so it's easier for me to just open the side door and pull out what I need that way, and I pull stuff out all the time. We can also get to it opening our dinette seat in the rear. We have camp chairs and water filters on one side and first aid and dog stuff on the other side. There's a litter box in the middle that I never need to get to from outside the camper. The rear doors are cool. Maybe someone would use them, but we don't.
I've pulled the spare tire off the rack 5 or 6 times for various reasons, but never due to needing to change the tire (thankfully). The winch on it makes it so easy and I take the tire on and off my myself easily. It's worked out really well. The winch rack system is amazing. Our build is a chassis mount but it does have supports to mount jacks to take the chassis on and off when we need to using standard truck camper jacks and the tire mount rack in the rear is attached to the mounts for jacks, so where we have this tire rack mounted can support the whole weight of the camper.
We installed a 360 camera system from Rear View Safety (RVS). I have an older model and they've redesigned their camera system since I bought it.
I HIGHLY recommend a 360 camera system for a truck like this. It has made driving so much easier in it. We have a 9 inch display that replaced our rear view mirror with and it shows a birds eye view next to a large camera display with one of the cameras on it, usually the rear.
That said.... I would recommend a different system than the one we got. I think the newer ones from RVS are probably better than our model. I couldn't find any competitors at the time, maybe there are some now. RVS has ******** customer support. The software in our model is ******** and it's just a pain in the ass to configure and get working. Their documentation doesn't match the product and the people you call offer terrible help because they can't figure out how to work with different models. Getting it configured, calibrated, working, etc was a huge pain in the ass, but well worth it in my opinion. I really hope their newer version is easier to configure. I'd be willing to bet that it is. That said, if I couldn't find a better alternative, I would still go though it and install the same system again just because having it has made getting around in a big vehicle like this really easy once you get it working.
I haven't decided on overland west this year. I sort of forgot about it. We might be out on a climbing trip that week. To be determined!
The tire rack swings out to access the rear compartment. The right side of the tire rack has wing nuts. You can hand unscrew these wing nuts, pull the bolt out and swing the rack out of the way to get to that compartment. It's a door that opens into the storage box that doubles as our rear dinette seat. I've never actually done it out on a trip though. Ever. This includes a few trips were we didn't have the tire rack on the camper and we still didn't use the rear doors. That rear compartment is also accessible from doors on either side of the camper, so it's easier for me to just open the side door and pull out what I need that way, and I pull stuff out all the time. We can also get to it opening our dinette seat in the rear. We have camp chairs and water filters on one side and first aid and dog stuff on the other side. There's a litter box in the middle that I never need to get to from outside the camper. The rear doors are cool. Maybe someone would use them, but we don't.
I've pulled the spare tire off the rack 5 or 6 times for various reasons, but never due to needing to change the tire (thankfully). The winch on it makes it so easy and I take the tire on and off my myself easily. It's worked out really well. The winch rack system is amazing. Our build is a chassis mount but it does have supports to mount jacks to take the chassis on and off when we need to using standard truck camper jacks and the tire mount rack in the rear is attached to the mounts for jacks, so where we have this tire rack mounted can support the whole weight of the camper.
We installed a 360 camera system from Rear View Safety (RVS). I have an older model and they've redesigned their camera system since I bought it.
I HIGHLY recommend a 360 camera system for a truck like this. It has made driving so much easier in it. We have a 9 inch display that replaced our rear view mirror with and it shows a birds eye view next to a large camera display with one of the cameras on it, usually the rear.
That said.... I would recommend a different system than the one we got. I think the newer ones from RVS are probably better than our model. I couldn't find any competitors at the time, maybe there are some now. RVS has ******** customer support. The software in our model is ******** and it's just a pain in the ass to configure and get working. Their documentation doesn't match the product and the people you call offer terrible help because they can't figure out how to work with different models. Getting it configured, calibrated, working, etc was a huge pain in the ass, but well worth it in my opinion. I really hope their newer version is easier to configure. I'd be willing to bet that it is. That said, if I couldn't find a better alternative, I would still go though it and install the same system again just because having it has made getting around in a big vehicle like this really easy once you get it working.
I haven't decided on overland west this year. I sort of forgot about it. We might be out on a climbing trip that week. To be determined!