How NOT to install propane lines.
- Thread starter Stereo
- Start date
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
Lube it. Nothing special, just something to make the cone slippery. Vaseline, olive oil, bear grease - whatever.
And don't forget to put the nut on first. Don't ask how I know this.
And don't put the nut on backwards. Also don't ask how I know this.
And yea, my tank is a horizontal "van style" (means the fittings are down low) 5g mounted under the sliding side door. Looks like this:
You can run yours straight in. No worries.
I know the feeling. Every day I have to look at a 4-panel door that I had upside down when I started to bore through for the lock. I keep meaning to cover the circular bit mark...quentinorciuch
New member
Read the OEM recommendations when working with flared connections, no thread tape should be used. On flared connections the threads do NO sealing, the sealing is done at the flare end. FYI.
I AM LOOKING FOR OPTIONS ON how to run propane through the wall of a cargo trailer. I have found a "bulkhead" fitting, but is only good for up to 5/8 inch, and the wall is about 2 inches thick. That would been ideal, but I do not want to make wall thinner, just would not work with outside flmsy sheet metal.
I have the 3/8 copper and maybe just run it through the wall?
I will use flex hose from tank to regulator, then copper from regulator.
I have a camper currently that runs the pipe through the wall (is an outside compartment but still through wall).
any ideas?
I have the 3/8 copper and maybe just run it through the wall?
I will use flex hose from tank to regulator, then copper from regulator.
I have a camper currently that runs the pipe through the wall (is an outside compartment but still through wall).
any ideas?
Alloy
Well-known member
When I install copper there are no connections inside. The copper is continuous from outside to the appliance.
One of these slipped over the copper prevent kinks
Type K or L copper not Type M
Option 1. Find a rubber hose that fits (not tight) the copper drill a hole in the wall for the hose and pass the copper through before installing the flare then caulk everything with urethane.
Option 2. Strain reliefs inside and out threaded into the appropriate custom length PVC (coupling) pipe. Trim the PCV until the strain reliefs compress on both side of the wall.
Option 3 & 4
www.bluesea.com
....or Scanstrut
Option 5
A 1/2" Pool/Tank bulkhead fitting that the copper passes through
The Gastite (corrugated stainless tube) show in the OP post is much easier to use vs. copper.
One of these slipped over the copper prevent kinks
Armour Line Tube Bending Spring Set, 4 pack (1/4 in., 3/8 in., 1/2 in., and 5/8 in.)-RP77210 - The Home Depot
Easily makes bends of soft tubing. Will bend copper and aluminum up to 180°. Also good for bending air condition tubing.
www.homedepot.com
Type K or L copper not Type M
Option 1. Find a rubber hose that fits (not tight) the copper drill a hole in the wall for the hose and pass the copper through before installing the flare then caulk everything with urethane.
Option 2. Strain reliefs inside and out threaded into the appropriate custom length PVC (coupling) pipe. Trim the PCV until the strain reliefs compress on both side of the wall.
Option 3 & 4
CableClam 1.40" - Blue Sea Systems
Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance
www.bluesea.com
....or Scanstrut
Option 5
A 1/2" Pool/Tank bulkhead fitting that the copper passes through
The Gastite (corrugated stainless tube) show in the OP post is much easier to use vs. copper.
So, you saying just run copper through the wall and protect it with something? I was thinking maybe garden hose since I have some.I ALSO HAVE the spring kink thing with my flare kit.
I would run it under the trailer and in right at the appliance, but I am thinking off-road, and don't want to drill big holes in each frame segment...
I'm converting this trailer to a cargo-camper.
It has been raised about 8 inches higher, springs sit on top of a straight axle, so has a lot of ground clearance, but is long, but still I want to be able to drag the frame if I have to and not rip out things.
From behind the diamond plate to rear is 12 feet.
I will have 20lb propane tank on trailer tongue so need to run the line in from there. The heater is now in front of the left wheel and the main thing getting propane. I might go through floor at the front where I can go between the frame and not under. The diamond plate is plastic, so not a good solid portal.
I'm selling the camper in pic. Towing trailer now with a mid-sized truck.
I would run it under the trailer and in right at the appliance, but I am thinking off-road, and don't want to drill big holes in each frame segment...
I'm converting this trailer to a cargo-camper.
It has been raised about 8 inches higher, springs sit on top of a straight axle, so has a lot of ground clearance, but is long, but still I want to be able to drag the frame if I have to and not rip out things.
From behind the diamond plate to rear is 12 feet.
I will have 20lb propane tank on trailer tongue so need to run the line in from there. The heater is now in front of the left wheel and the main thing getting propane. I might go through floor at the front where I can go between the frame and not under. The diamond plate is plastic, so not a good solid portal.
I'm selling the camper in pic. Towing trailer now with a mid-sized truck.
Alloy
Well-known member
Don't used garden hose the sheet metal will cut it like a knife through butter. Use something with a 3/16-14" wall thickness.
teardropper just a nice install using hose.
Propane piping
Thanks for the add, so I am in the process of building a off-road teardrop style camper. The current question I have is how is everyone running there propane lines? hard pipe? flexible quick connect lines? I will have a interior gas heater and 2 spots to hook up a gas cook stove Thanks for the...
www.expeditionportal.com
Alloy
Well-known member
Deburring / burnishing isn't gong to help...a dull knife still cuts.