2008 Land Rover LR3 on 35"s - Refurbish/Rebuild Thread

[soflorovers]

12/17/19 Update:

I finally got around to ordering both rear axles (HD) for the LR3. Erik over at Lucky8 was extremely helpful and made the process completely painless (as usual). Can't wait for them to arrive and begin replacement.

Unrelated, I'd like to resolve my electronic parking brake issues this weekend. For those not familiar, the LR3/RRS/LR4 have been known to suffer from EPB failure. My truck currently has a flashing EPB failure light and it drives me absolutely mad to the point where I've placed a business card in front of the speedometer to block the light. I really don't want to change out the actuator as I've heard it's a PITA and the parts are relatively expensive. Given the somewhat budget nature of this build (It has 172k miles and has been beat to ******* - I'm never going to achieve perfection), I was wondering if anyone has experience with eliminating the EPB altogether and clearing the flashing light? I do have a GAP tool, however I have yet to transfer over the licence. Has anyone successfully removed the EPB system/cleared the lights without replacing the actuator?

 

[Jwestpro]

Has anyone successfully removed the EPB system/cleared the lights without replacing the actuator?

Wouldn't it be nice to convert to a cable? Even better a center diff version like on the older rovers. I always liked that on my D1 and 2 you could utilize all 4 tires to hold traction on a steep slope vs the stupid 2 wheels only on the new rovers. On a steep incline pointing nose down, it just slides along as the front wheels happily roll.

 

[soflorovers]

Wouldn't it be nice to convert to a cable? Even better a center diff version like on the older rovers. I always liked that on my D1 and 2 you could utilize all 4 tires to hold traction on a steep slope vs the stupid 2 wheels only on the new rovers. On a steep incline pointing nose down, it just slides along as the front wheels happily roll.

Indeed. It seems that this is one feature of the LR3 that is absolute garbage. Shhhhh let's not speak too loudly though...the Defender Hate/Rage thread may migrate over here and tell me what a terrible vehicle I bought.

 

[Victory_Overland]

@soflorovers check your other thread post; I put my comments there. Let me know if that helps you out cuz I had a "similar' problem and deactivated it that way.

 

[GORM]

I’ve removed the fault using the gap tool. There is a difference between a “jam” and something broken. Gap tool is supposed to reset the parking brake to help unjam it. It runs a noisy unjamming/ reset procedure. Looks like you have to get the codes to find out if you can correct this.

 

[soflorovers]

I’ve removed the fault using the gap tool. There is a difference between a “jam” and something broken. Gap tool is supposed to reset the parking brake to help unjam it. It runs a noisy unjamming/ reset procedure. Looks like you have to get the codes to find out if you can correct this.

I appreciate the help!

 

[soflorovers]

1/7/2020 Update:

Finally got around to giving the LR3 it’s first service. The previous owner told me that the skid plate is a pain in the ass to remove and re-install, so naturally I had been delaying this service as long as possible. Judging by the attached photo and the mangled nature of the piece, I think the previous owner got his money’s worth out of the skid plate.

8 quarts of Castrol, a new Mann filter and a new drain bolt have it ready for another 5000 miles or so. Next on the list are the rear CVs!

Edit: I also had it washed this weekend for the first time since it’s come into my possession. The paint has seen much better days, but overall it’s still presentable. Given the amount of deep scratches and dents, one can’t expect perfection from a 12 year old trail truck with 173k on the odometer.

 

[badm0t0rfinger]

 

[ZWilson07]

Checking in. Any update on the build?

 

[soflorovers]

Checking in. Any update on the build?

There has been an update, but I didn't bother to post about it since I didn't document it. When I first bought the truck, the previous owner told me that the rear CV's were in desperate need of changing. I reached out to a mechanic friend of mine and he swapped out both rear axles with new units approximately 3 weeks ago since I didn't have time to do the work myself. Unfortunately, the truck still has a drive line vibration from 30-40 mph (albeit much less severe). To date, I've swapped out the rear axles and rear driveshaft with new units hoping to resolve the issue, but now I fear I'll never truly be able to track the problem down.

There's also still the issue of a "flutter"/oscillation of revs when around 1500 RPM in "drive". I believe this is a transmission related issue as it only occurs when the vehicle is in Drive and does not occur (or is barely noticeable) when you use manual shifting mode. I was considering resetting the transmission adaptations with my GAAP tool, but I was told by an LR tech that I probably shouldn't do that on a vehicle with 175k miles.

Finally, the newest issue a popping noise coming from the front end during mild/heavy acceleration. I first noticed it after I went full throttle trying to clear an obstacle and failed miserably. After a little research, I think I've blown a front CV (Which the previous owner had just changed 2 weeks prior to selling the truck), or one of the axles has stripped teeth and is spinning semi-freely on the differential or hub end; I'm really hoping I didn't destroy the front diff. The unfortunate part is that I won't know what parts are needed until I disassemble the entire left front corner of the truck. The joys of Land Rover ownership . I did have time to work on another Land Rover though...

 

[nwoods]

FWIW, It's pretty unlikely you blew the front diff. The CV joint is designed to work like a fuse, and honestly, it's a pretty easy fix. I never had to do it on mine, but I've done it once on the trail for another LR3. That was nearly 15 years ago, but I certainly don't remember it being hard.

On my Jeep, death wobble and driveline vibrations were common issues. I solved mine by getting better, lighter, more evenly balanced (ie: properly molded) tires. Once I switched away from lumpy brittle squarish ProComps, and installed BFG KM2's, all my driveline issues went away. Also, make sure the tires are road force balanced, which just means they spin them to balance them, instead of stationary float them (I think?). You're tires are not new, and I guarantee the balance point has moved since new due to tread wear, chunking, etc... For the LR3, I'd recommend Falkien Wildpeak AT3's. They are a very smooth, well balanced tire, with sufficient agressiveness to get the job done, and seem to do well in rain as well:

 

[soflorovers]

FWIW, It's pretty unlikely you blew the front diff. The CV joint is designed to work like a fuse, and honestly, it's a pretty easy fix. I never had to do it on mine, but I've done it once on the trail for another LR3. That was nearly 15 years ago, but I certainly don't remember it being hard.

On my Jeep, death wobble and driveline vibrations were common issues. I solved mine by getting better, lighter, more evenly balanced (ie: properly molded) tires. Once I switched away from lumpy brittle squarish ProComps, and installed BFG KM2's, all my driveline issues went away. Also, make sure the tires are road force balanced, which just means they spin them to balance them, instead of stationary float them (I think?). You're tires are not new, and I guarantee the balance point has moved since new due to tread wear, chunking, etc... For the LR3, I'd recommend Falkien Wildpeak AT3's. They are a very smooth, well balanced tire, with sufficient agressiveness to get the job done, and seem to do well in rain as well:

I'm sure the vibrations would get better with newer (& smaller) tires. Furthermore, I do know for a fact that one of my rear wheels has a nasty bend in it (It's clearly not round anymore), but I'm not sure if tires alone are the culprit of the vibration I'm feeling. I could be wrong, but it feels to me as if its being caused by excess slack somewhere.

 

[Shigeta]

I'm sure the vibrations would get better with newer (& smaller) tires. Furthermore, I do know for a fact that one of my rear wheels has a nasty bend in it (It's clearly not round anymore), but I'm not sure if tires alone are the culprit of the vibration I'm feeling. I could be wrong, but it feels to me as if its being caused by excess slack somewhere.

I worked in the wheel industry for about 5 years. Between the tires, bent wheel, and likely need for rebalancing, I'd bet my lunch money that those factors are causing your vibration issues.

 

[Victory_Overland]

May as well check your carrier bearings too. I plan to do mine when I rip the suspension apart again. I can feel and hear the vibes at 40mph or so and I slowly do the NASCAR tire warming technique. Could be diff whine too, but I am attempting to isolate so I can have the parts on hand when I break into one or the other.

I worked in the wheel industry for about 5 years. Between the tires, bent wheel, and likely need for rebalancing, I'd bet my lunch money that those factors are causing your vibration issues.

How much is your lunch money; I'm not doubting against you one 100%, but more like 0.01% cuz nothing is ever certain and you might be an uber rich guy who lunch money needs an extra extension on the money clip and I'm a risk taker.......

 

[Shigeta]

How much is your lunch money; I'm not doubting against you one 100%, but more like 0.01% cuz nothing is ever certain and you might be an uber rich guy who lunch money needs an extra extension on the money clip and I'm a risk taker.......

Good point ?

Now that I own an LR3, I'm so poor I can't even pay attention!

OP, if you want to isolate noises without throwing massively expensive parts at it, I recommend buying a set of Chassis Ears. I have wireless ones and they've paid for themselves 10 times over when I discovered my rear diff was on its way to the grave, but the noises in the cabin all seemed to come from the front diff. I was about to buy a new front diff before I bought the chassis ears to confirm.

Amazon link to Steelman Wireless Chassis Ears