ROFs Do Death Valley 2019

[moto-treks]

A short ways up the trail loomed Chicken Rock, the off-camber corner with a four hundred foot drop just inches away from our tires. But first, we would need to navigate the narrow shelf road to Chicken Rock. As I started making the climb, I looked out my window and watched as the valley floor dropped away - 100 feet, 200 feet, 300 feet. We crossed the ravine that was once spanned by a crude bridge built with utility polls; now filled in with rocks and a retaining wall. As the road narrowed, I neared the next corner and there it was, the infamous Chicken Rock. Carefully stepping out of my Jeep to view the obstacle, I realized there was no way I wanted to back down that shelf road. No choice but to continue.

Two nights earlier, Tino, LandcruiserPhil, Ace and I met in the Last Kind Words Saloon at Furnace Creek. I arrived late, so I ordered some dinner to help my beer go down. After introductions and talking about our rigs and the trip, we retired to our vehicles for a good nights sleep. I am grateful these three joined me for the trip around Death Valley. During the next 10 days, we became better acquainted and I can’t imagine another group to explore Death Valley with.

Thanks guys for joining me on the 2019 ROFs Do Death Valley.

 

[Ace Brown]

I will readily admit that Chicken Rock scared me. I was so spooked by the big drop to my left that I scraped my sliders against the rocks on my right hard enough to leave gouges in the steel. Then when I got to the crux move at Chicken Rock I was really flustered. Despite Phil’s excellent spotting I got too close to the wall and put some more gouges in my fender. I had collected some earlier scars on that fender going over Mendel Pass. Oh well, it’s just sheet metal.

On the other hand Tino did fine there despite limited experience. Those 35s helped him.

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[moto-treks]

Waking up early the next day I packed up the Jeep and headed over to The Ranch at Death Valley for some breakfast. Tino had already started chowing down so I joined him for breakfast and several cups of coffee. Before long it was time to meet Ace and LandcruiserPhil at the gas station so we downed the our last cup sprinted for our Jeeps.

The first leg of the trip had us driving down the West Side road. After a short stop at the Devil's Golf Course to air down we continued past Shorty's Grave, Bennett's Long Camp, Queen of Sheba before Turing west onto Warm Springs road.

Tanks used for the Queen of Sheba Mine

Warm Springs Road

Talc Mine

Butte Valley

I had originally planned to spend the first night in Butte Valley and explore some of the side road like Redlands, Mystery and Wood Canyons but I needed to be back in LA earlier than planned for a doctors visit; that’s the sucky part of “Old Fart”, so we pushed on to Mengel Pass.

Upon cresting Mengel Pass LandcruiserPhil was so stoked he motored up the Mengel Pass Overlook for a better photo spot.

Tino conquered his first off-road rock garden heading up Mengel Pass and was bitting at the bit for more excitement. I remember hearing the concerned voice of Ace over the radio saying, “Tino, you don’t need to hunt out every rock to drive over”.

We picked our way down Goler Canyon and ended up at the Lotus Mine for the night. While I drifted off to sleep in the RTT I realized we were way ahead of schedule. We should have enough time to fit a side trip into Middle Park via South Park Canyon and Pleasant Canyon which makes up the Pleasant Canyon Loop trail. The writeup of the trails promises a little bit of everything for the overlander. Mines, cabins, steep mountain ascents and descents, epic views, rocks, cliffs, and more.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Starfish

 

[Ace Brown]

I recall hearing a lot of talk and laughter about a starfish. But I missed the connection. Same with dancing burros. Bad hearing sucks, but sometimes it actually is a benefit.

Somebody really liked our leader. I hope Wendy isn’t too jealous.

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[Ace Brown]

After we passed by Chicken Rock we came into some huge open meadows. It was like driving into a whole new world. Those meadows led to some big hills that were very steep up and down. Eventually we started looking for a place to spend the night. Jeff had a guide book that described several cabins along the route. Those we saw weren’t fit for a rat, but finally we found Beater Cabin which was in excellent shape. We got a nice fire going in the wood stove and prepared our meals in a proper kitchen. If there were beds in there I would have slept there. I’m sure I would have heard some busy mice cleaning up after our meal. Next morning we tidied up Beater Cabin and headed down the canyon. I wondered outloud if the Hustler Magazine spotted on a shelf had any connection with the cabins name.

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[Ace Brown]

I’m a bit confused about where our trip report is posted, but I’ve already posted quite a bit here so I’ll continue.

Our next stop was the old town of Ballarat. We visited with the desert rats that call it home and some travelers like us. Then we soon arrived at pavement where we aired up and sped up the highway to Panamint Springs where we filled tanks and tummies. Heading north we soon got back on the dirt. We camped in a wash near Darwin Falls Road where we had a nice fire on a cold night. It’s allowed here outside the park.

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[Ace Brown]

Next morning we stopped in quaint Darwin. We explored the town on foot for awhile and saw some amazing marble carvings done by a local artist. They were for sale but at crazy high prices. We wondered how he ever got buyers in such a remote location. That picture of me in the lounge chair is duplicated from a shot taken in March 2017. That hole behind me is an abandoned home. There was an upright piano stuck in there that still played. Next we went up over South Pass and enjoyed an incredible view of Panamint Valley. Next stop was Teakettle Junction. Then on to the Racetrack. There is a new info board there that finally answers the question of how the rocks move. It happens when there is enough rain to create a small lake on the playa, which soon freezes. Later the ice breaks up and sheets of ice are pushed around by the wind. The rocks are trapped in the ice and get dragged around the soft surface. This also explains why two rocks can make perfectly parallel tracks. That night we camped in Homestake CG. There was another fair sized group of overlanders camped there but we only waved at each other. I was beginning to feel poorly so to bed early.

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[Ace Brown]

Now on Friday we drove down Lippincot Road which was definitely rougher than my last trip down there in 2004. We returned back over South Pass then on to Saline Valley. Soon we turned west and did the moderately rough climb up to Cerro Gordo mine camp. We probably hit the highest point of the trip there at just over 9000 feet. Our leader had called ahead to be sure the town caretaker could give us a tour. So we met Robert at the hotel. He gave us a very interesting and entertaining tour and talk. I was blown away by how well this 71 year old gentleman had retained so many names, dates and places. He showed us things like a bullet hole and bloodstain where someone was fatally shot over a card game. He and others had a amassed a huge collection of trivia that was very interesting to us Ol’ Farts. We tipped the man generously and headed down to Lone Pine for fuel, supplies and chow. We headed up to the Alabama Rocks to find a place to camp. Well, it being a Friday night it was pretty full but Jeff had spent some time camped there just a few weeks prior and eventually found a spot down a narrow passage that was pretty strange driving through at night.

The next morning I was getting really worn down from all the hours spent behind the wheel and poor sleep so I bailed and headed home. I hope the others will complete the trip report.

 

[Ace Brown]

Next morning we stopped in quaint Darwin. We explored the town on foot for awhile and saw some amazing marble carvings done by a local artist. They were for sale but at crazy high prices. We wondered how he ever got buyers in such a remote location. That picture of me in the lounge chair is duplicated from a shot taken in March 2017. That hole behind me is an abandoned home. There was an upright piano stuck in there that still played. Next we went up over South Pass and enjoyed an incredible view of Panamint Valley. Next stop was Teakettle Junction. Then on to the Racetrack. There is a new info board there that finally answers the question of how the rocks move. It happens when there is enough rain to create a small lake on the playa, which soon freezes. Later the ice breaks up and sheets of ice are pushed around by the wind. The rocks are trapped in the ice and get dragged around the soft surface. This also explains why two rocks can make perfectly parallel tracks. That night we camped in Homestake CG. There was another fair sized group of overlanders camped there but we only waved at each other. I was beginning to feel poorly so to bed early.

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Forgot the lounge photo:

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[Ace Brown]

Heading home I made the mistake of driving through Las Vegas at 5:00 on a Saturday night. Boondock camped near Mesquite then on to home the next long day of 486 miles.

A footnote of this trip, I decided I could not sleep in my truck any longer. Too cramped. Even though I had sworn I would never put a RTT on my truck I started shopping for used tents here on ExPo. Found a Alu-cab unit in Phoenix and drove down to get it the following Friday. Going through Phoenix and Scottsdale at 5:00 on a Friday was even worse than Las Vegas. I live in a small town with only one stop light.

On the way home I stopped in the Grand Canyon to visit old friends Doug and Susie who work there. Of course I took a tour of the park while there. Home the next day with another long (for me) drive of 480 miles.

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[80t0ylc]

Heading home I made the mistake of driving through Las Vegas at 5:00 on a Saturday night. Boondock camped near Mesquite then on to home the next long day of 486 miles.

A footnote of this trip, I decided I could not sleep in my truck any longer. Too cramped. Even though I had sworn I would never put a RTT on my truck I started shopping for used tents here on ExPo. Found a Alu-cab unit in Phoenix and drove down to get it the following Friday. Going through Phoenix and Scottsdale at 5:00 on a Friday was even worse than Las Vegas. I live in a small town with only one stop light.

On the way home I stopped in the Grand Canyon to visit old friends Doug and Susie who work there. Of course I took a tour of the park while there. Home the next day with another long (for me) drive of 480 miles.


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Have you camped in the Alu Cab and if so, what's your opinion?

 

[Ace Brown]

Have you camped in the Alu Cab and if so, what's your opinion?

I camped two nights on the way home from Phoenix. Very quick to set up and take down. It’s bigger than some and definitely heavier than most but it’s built like a tank. It’s all made out of aluminum and very well built. The main reason I picked this one is the awning over the rear window which allows me to ventilate in the rain. My Auto-home Columbus could not be ventilated in the rain. The mattress is too firm and will be replaced with my Mega-mat and some foam to fill in the gap. I did the same thing in my Columbus. Not much to add except to say go to their website for details.


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[gwittman]

Ace, Was that trail up to Cerro Gordo the same one we tried to take years earlier? If so, I hope it was in better condition.

 

[Ace Brown]

Ace, Was that trail up to Cerro Gordo the same one we tried to take years earlier? If so, I hope it was in better condition.

It was but I think we were off trail when we turned around. I looked over in the wash and believed I could see where we quit. The actual road was rough in a few spots but very drivable.

Ace


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