Help me Pick Lift and Tires

MrWiggles

Member
Hi all,

I recently purchased a 2016 LRD/D4 and received a lot of feed back from people here that I shouldn't go all out on the mods for my new LR4. My wallet thanks you.

However a lot of people did advise me to go to 18 inch wheels and get better AT tires. I am planning compomotive 18" wheels and KO2s.

I took my truck out on a few easy/moderate trails here in colorado. It did well, but I definitely need more clearance. I was thinking of getting a gap tool and lifting it.

My question is, how high of a lift should I use, and what tire size should I be thinking about. I bought this truck with the expectation of longer off roading trips, but I still have to travel on the highway to get to them. Thoughts? I'd love to go as high as possible without destroying the ride quality.
 

amcjen

Member
I love the KO2 tires on 18s on my LR3. Becomes super capable, so good choice IMO!

What do you mean by clearance? You want more even when off-road clearance mode is enabled?
 

gatorgrizz27

Well-known member
The problem with these trucks is that more lift really doesn’t allow you to run larger tires. I just put 265/65R18 KO2’s on mine and the spots where it’s close to rubbing in access mode are the same as where it almost rubs in off-road mode. It’s the outer edge of the tire against the frame horns and front wheel well opening when turning, and the rear body seam, but it’s tight all over the place, especially when it articulates.

I ended up running mine at stock height for every day use, then using the GAP tool to raise it about 1 1/4” when I go off-road. This allows it to ride better on dirt roads without raising it to factory off road setting and dealing with its 30 mph governor, and puts the off road setting as high as I want it for water crossings and obstacles.

This is with the 1 1/4” added, in the normal position.

662240F1-7CB9-47F3-96FF-D5D975E11760.jpeg

This is with the 1 1/4” in the off-road setting. The bottom edge of the fender arches are just over 36”.

637BCBE7-EB0E-4FFF-A722-5A1E6216B49E.jpeg

This is sitting on the bumpstops, I can drive and turn with zero rubbing in the event of an EAS failure.

6582EAD5-9008-41FF-BDF2-EDCD16CADCF2.jpeg
 

krick3tt

Adventurer
I have DuraTracs on 18s and in off road height I find the stock height adjustment more than adequate for CO trails. I don't rock climb. Can't see going over 30 off road so I am comfortable with stock adjustments. Perhaps you are in the wrong vehicle for the type of driving you want to do. Just a thought, not meant to start a war here.
 

LKLK

Member
If you’re on 19”S at the moment, continental has an awesome a/t. It’s an amazing tire and currently have it along with a set of general m/t’s. While people can do what they want, I highly suggest this! The light weight of that tire and it’s durability is epic. I came back from a road trip with these things installed and it was quiet.

It’s a gas saver and your ears will thank you for not hearing the loud drone of m/t´s!

 

shade

Well-known member
Welcome to ExPo! ?

Lots of great AT options to choose from.

Unless you think you'll benefit from heavier AT tyres (better load rating and durability), opt for lighter options. No reason for a stiff Load E rating with aggressive tread if a lighter (better performance & fuel economy), Load C tyre (better ride quality) will do the job.

Btw, good on ya for taking your time to make thoughtful changes to your truck.
 

LKLK

Member
Welcome to ExPo! ?

Lots of great AT options to choose from.

Unless you think you'll benefit from heavier AT tyres (better load rating and durability), opt for lighter options. No reason for a stiff Load E rating with aggressive tread if a lighter (better performance & fuel economy), Load C tyre (better ride quality) will do the job.

Btw, good on ya for taking your time to make thoughtful changes to your truck.
Yes!!! I like where your coming from shade...
 

Blaise

Well-known member
Do you really need more clearance? For moderate trails?

I've personally watched a stock LR3 navigate Poison Spider Mesa in Moab without any GAP adjustment. I do own a GAP tool and I do run +25mm lift but only on very aggressive trails.

Do not run over +25mm ever. Extended mode exists for a reason and you don't want to run topped out.

I will agree with what others have stated which is to forego an E-rated tire. It's necessary only if you're running a very heavy rig.

18" wheels are nice but 19" wheels are fine with a good AT tire. I believe you can get a Duratrac in that size. Cheers!
 

Red90

Adventurer
Changing the ride height is not going to increase tire clearance. You would need to limit compression travel to do that.
 

gatorgrizz27

Well-known member
I’m not sure skipping the load range E tires is great advice for off road use. Yes, you don’t really need the weight capacity but the tougher sidewalls are a massive benefit IMO. I noticed my car had slightly better small bump compliance with the E range KO2’s at a variety of pressures than with the factory size Toyo tires at recommended specs. At 28 psi off-road I was amazed how well it rode.

I also tore a hole in the side wall of C rated Cooper AT3’s by bumping a curb in a drive through, and my wife blew the side wall of a Michelin in a parking lot. Both were 3” tears and obviously unrepairable.

Looking at BFG’s, going from an E rated tire to a D only saves 3 lbs per tire. Going from an E to a C is almost 10 pounds, which is significant, but not worth the risk to me.
 
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shade

Well-known member
It's a compromise only the OP can make.

Using a daily driver to occasionally travel easy trails with light loads could favour a lighter tyre.
Scrambling up talus strewn mountain passes with a heavy load, or bashing into curbs regularly may make a heavier tyre a better choice.
 

Blaise

Well-known member
I’m not sure skipping the load range E tires is great advice for off road use. Yes, you don’t really need the weight capacity but the tougher sidewalls are a massive benefit IMO.

Each to their own. I've been running every trail with P-rated duratracs for 18 months and while this is a contentious topic around here, I'm more aggressive with my truck than most people and I've done plenty of damage to my wheels but the tires have done great. I previously have run E-rated tires and found the compliance and road manners to be too much of a compromise. I can't imagine being able to puncture a sidewall at a drive through considering the level of abuse I put my tires through regularly.
 

danof76

New member
I'm a relatively new LR3 owner and I put BFG KO2s on almost right away. 265/60/18 E-rated and so far I'm loving them; no complaints. They are my first ever set of KO2s, I have Duratracs on the TJ and between the two I think I may end up getting another set for the TJ when it's time (if I don't just put MTs on it).
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
I've been running every trail

You're going to die using P tires ;) Just kidding, really. I made my recomendations to you assuming everyone ends up with a super heavy build.

My reason for this post is to ask if you've gotten to do Naches top to bottom/eastbound ? An lr3 won't fit through the western-most end which is also basically west of the "top". The eastward route comes out quite a ways east but you can also then make it a full loop routing through to come out onto I90 near Hyak. There are sections which I'd say are good tests for a 'just enough sidewall' tire and wheel combo.
 

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