Teardrop #4

[john61ct]

Don't tighten too hard and squeeze it out.

little thin spacers help

 

[Teardropper]

Thought about this a little more. I used butyl tape on the front windows. The windows have been installed for over a year at this point but I still get squeeze out from the tape. You may run into an issue where the butyl tape squeezes out and pushes the poly out of the way. I'm not sure if this would lead to a leak or not. I did have a couple of front window leaks early on that I solved by tightening the frames.

Thanks for the insight. You certainly live where things get a true test.

T

 

[Teardropper]

Headliner ready to mount.

125" long.

T

 

[Teardropper]

Dry fitting the headliner.

I can't imagine doing this without the ledge on the walls.

T

 

[john61ct]

The norm is to fit roof & insulation first, then glue from underneath right?

 

[Louisd75]

I think he's using the Fredrickson method. Headliner goes in first, then roof spars and insulation, then roof. Not much work is done from the inside, it's all done on top. I did it similar. I put glue on the ledge on the top of the wall, set the headliner panel on, then glue, then spars and insulation. Spars were screwed down into the top of the wall. I used boards and spreader clamps to push the middle of the headliner panel up against the spars while the glue was still wet. I had to do that up forward where the roof was flat. The arch on T's may keep the headliner from sagging.

 

[Teardropper]

The norm is to fit roof & insulation first, then glue from underneath right?

Louis is right.

The walls have a shelf, or ledge the headliner sits on. That ledge is formed from the 3/4" skeleton in the wall.

In the morning, I'll run a line of PL Premium down this ledge and then place the headliner on it and crown staple it in place. The spars will be glued on top of the headliner. I'll use crow staples to hold the headliner on the spars while the glue drys. That's the only thing I'll do from the inside.

I don't know if there is a "normal" in the DIY teardrop world. I sure can't imagine installing a headliner (mine's 59 3/8" x 125") after the spars are on –but that's how some do it.

T

 

[ryanmcrist]

wow - awesome build! Can you share any detail shots of the latches for the entry doors? Curious what hardware you are using and how they are applied.

Thanks!

 

[Teardropper]

Can you share any detail shots of the latches for the entry doors?

I'm not there yet. But I bought them from Vintage.

I think the biggee is figuring out the door seals. I've got a 3/8" seal gap and am using Trim Lock Seal with Side Bulb: Trim Lock ...It looks like it will work well but I don't have the interior sheathing on the doors yet.

T

 

[Teardropper]

The headliner is on. Here's a quick video of installing a spar. Note the trouble light on top so I can see it from inside and be able to hit it with the crown stapler.


T

 

[Teardropper]

All the spars are on and the solar panel is fitted.

T

 

[john61ct]

That's going to be a very hot ceiling without an air gap under the panels.

 

[Teardropper]

That's going to be a very hot ceiling without an air gap under the panels.

People talk about that issue with flexible panels. This is an ETFE panel.

Renogy says it'll be fine. If it becomes an issue, I'll put a piece of plastic corrugated cardboard underneath it.

T

 

[john61ct]

High melting point plastic I hope.

People think it's OK to just stick flexible panels directly to the roof, is why the issue is raised more frequently in that context.

Panels also perform much more efficiently when the cells are kept cool, why their substrate is heat-sink material, relies on airflow both top and bottom to do its work.

Lifespan is also shortened by higher temps.

If it were below the point warranty still applied, Renogy may be more honest.

But my point was actually directed to the effect of the extreme heat on your roof / ceiling materials, added insulation that will be needed to prevent heat gain from entering the living space, etc.

 

[Teardropper]

But my point was actually directed to the effect of the extreme heat on your roof / ceiling materials, added insulation that will be needed to prevent heat gain from entering the living space, etc.

The roof will be insulated with 2" of foam board. There's no way the heat gain from a dark panel will enter the cabin.

Almost all teardrops are built with an insulated ceiling that is also the front wall. This 'drop has insulation in the walls and the floor.

T