2017 CVT RTT trailer build

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
Last month (April 2019) I found this trailer on CL in Bend, OR. Decided not to wait up to a year to have a hard side / teardrop style trailer built as I had originally intended and purchased it.

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The Land Cruiser was just getting too full and impossibly inconvenient for trips. The object is to enjoy your time overlanding, not spending so much time unpacking at camp and then trying to creatively pack all the crap back into the rig in a timely manner when breaking camp.

I had the PO remove the soft side RTT and awning, not only to reduce the price, but because I already had a tent and awning. So I've been modding the trailer to my tastes. First thing was matching the wheels and tires so my spare on the LC would work on the trailer. The LC has LT315/75 - 16s - 8" wide wheels with 0 offset. The trailer came with the correct lug pattern for me (5.5"/ 6 lug). I was expecting a 3500 lb axle, so I was amazed to find it's a 5200 - 6000 lb axle. The fender setup required me to use wheel spacers to run my tire/wheel combo, without rubbing the inner wall. I also repacked wheel bearings since you seldom know what the PO's maintenance was like and overlanding demands that you be sure of what you got and run. The hubs have the EZ Lube zircs, but research reveals to not rely on them in place of repacking. It's ok to add grease at times, but don't neglect the repacking, depending on use and environment - water crossings & such. I've moved the RTT, Shadow awning and Kinsman shower over from the LC. The modification I made to my Yakima bars to accomodate the Shadow appears to work well on the trailer.

This trailer was one of 7 that CVT built and is unique and different from the current ones that CVT offers. Along with the HD axle (5200-6000 lb) is an adjustable and reversible tongue, meaning it can be removed and installed in rear receiver (temporarily, of course) so if you get yourself into a tight spot that you can't turn around in. Sounds like an excellent idea in theory, but I hope never to have to find out practically...lol. I added a Max Coupler off road hitch for tough spots. The trailer has brakes installed, but PO had never wired them up to be used with a controller.

Now, getting gear packed up and ready to give 'er a try. I'll add more pics, mods and experiences as time goes by. Here's a couple after gear moved over from LC.
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80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
Early May, I was signed up to do the ROF Rimrocker + Kokopelli run and headed off to Moab to join the group. But due to lingering deep snow in the high country, muddy roads from snow melt and wet weather hitting the route at that particular time, the group changed plans and we ended up meeting in Escalante, UT and running out to Alstrom Point via HIR to LHCC and Croton Road. I was thankful we didn't try messing with the deep snow, as our group leader, Ace Brown, considered that to be trouble. As a ROF I've come to find that trouble finds you often enough, the wise don't go looking for it. We just couldn't avoid the weather demons and serious wind and some rain hit us at Alstrom Point, since we were camped right near the rim. The roads had dried out by morning, so no mud back to Bigwater and pavement. From there the group disbanded pretty much as an organized trip. The trailer performs well and tracks well behind my LC both on and off road. It weighs right around 2000 lbs loaded with my gear and supplies, so it's a bit on the heavy side for my stock 1FE engine on my 80 series, noticeably on long grades on the pavement. But, off road in low range, it follows loyally, with out 'complaints', wherever I point the LC & it's so nice to have the LC free of an attached RTT and awning/annex while camped. I still have some minor 'tweaking' to do on some things, but so far, I'm satisfied. Following are some interior and exterior pics of the wall kit setup from trip.
 
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80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
Looking at the right side or passenger side of the trailer.

Outside
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Looking inside the door516135516147
 

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
Other outside views from my recent camp at Owyhee Lake, OR on the way home from my ROF trip to southern Utah.

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80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
On the driver's side of the trailer is what looks like a very short awning enclosure and is in fact, a shower/toilet privacy enclosure made by Kinsmen. It's a nice option to have when camping with a group. It's extremely easy to deploy and works with a portable toilet and shower system. I have tried it as a toilet, but not a shower enclosure, yet. The privacy is good, provided the corners can be staked down. I had an issue at Alstrom point camped on solid slick rock with gusty wind conditions. Also, it's like being in a phone booth (with no windows), for those that can remember what a phone booth is.

No mystery how to use it as you can see from the pics. To pack it up, just the reverse the steps of deployment. The entrance to the enclosure can be moved by re-orienting the straps and buckles as needed.


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80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
Is it true that utility trailers are actually way more fuel efficient than enclosed trailers? I'm not sure which one I would like to buy and use. I mean the utility trailer is even more lightweight. Not that I plan to haul much, furniture and such. Should get the job done, right?
I don't know, I've not seen a comparison or discussion on fuel efficiency, but I guess it's a concern. Given the fuel mileage with my tow rig, even empty, I honestly wasn't concerned. But, I guess it would depend on what you've got mounted on a trailer and how aerodynamic the loaded trailer is. On mine I had OP remove the original RTT which was a 'brick" as far as aerodynamics is concerned. I've seen some builds where the RTT is mounted on a frame that can be raised for use and lowered again for travel. Being that my RTT is a hard shell and more aerodynamic, I'm not concerned that it is stationary.
 

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
My current water system is simple and consists of eight 3.5 gallon Waterbricks which calculates to 28 gallon capacity. I ordered a spigot with them and thought - wow, my only issue is going to be switching the spigot to the next Waterbrick as I drain them. Wrong......what I didn't realize is that setting on their side, with out tipping it, you can only drain out about 1/2 of the water. So.....back to the drawing board. Somehow I came to the conclusion that If I could hang the Waterbrick upside down, I could drain 95% of the water out through the spigot. At 1st I used a rope strung through one of the holes. Then I remembered the transport holding plate I had made out of plywood and threaded rods. I thought if I could find a spot to mount the rods vertically, it might work. Well, I didn't have to look far.....the same spot on my trailer had a vertical support to mount to. The following pics illustrate my solution.
Drilled & bolted on thread couplers.
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Add threaded rods with rubber hose and plasic caps to protect Waterbricks
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Remove transport cap from Waterbrick and replace with spigot
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Spigot installed. Nozzel can be rotated 360* after installation to point in direction needed. Waterbrick mounted on trailer for use.
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80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
So, as I mentioned earlier, the trailer came with brakes, however the PO had not wired them up to be used. I had a Voyager controller that I pulled out of another rig. Googled it and printed out the owner's manual and schematic for wiring it up. I had the brakes working for the trip to Utah and once adjusted, they work great. Plus, even though they're not required here in OR for this trailer, having brakes gives me more confidence having a ton of trailer behind me to get stopped when needed. I need to do some research on brake usage, both on and off road. A fellow off road trailer owner with a lot of experience, also a trip leader warned me that off road, it's best not to use the trailer's brakes. One example he mentioned was descending a steep slope and off camber, being hard on the brakes as well as in low range, trailer wheels could lock up. If that happens, the trailer might come around on you - obviously not the best of situations. Also on pavement, if brake controller is adjusted too aggressive and a sudden stop is required on slick roads - even rain soaked (hydroplaning), trailer could jack knife on you.

Any tips, experience or advice welcome.
 

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
I think I found a major component to my battery charging system. The Redarc Manager30. Kinda pricey ($1200), and probably overkill for most small off road trailers. Not needed if you don't want or need a shore power connection. This component has already been well tested in Oz and here's a video that's also kind of a review:


BTW, here's another review right here on EP:

 

80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
New trailer jack, helpful at home too. Old one was a pain to deal with, even moving trailer around in my driveway. Link if interested.
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80t0ylc

Hill & Gully Rider
Well, the opportunity came up and I now have a teardrop style trailer. This one will be up for sale. The new one is made by Three Feathers Manufacturing in La Grande, OR. It's their 2018 Trail Head model. I've already moved the awning and jack over to it. I plan to set up the MaxCoupler on it eventually. A couple of pics:IMG_1340a.JPGIMG_1342a.JPG
 

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