Fiberglass camper top insulation ideals

6gun

Active member
I think you're going to go through a whole lot of effort for very little gain. Unless you swap out the windows for dual pane versions, insulate the box and tail gate, dual gasket the tailgate to bed seal, you won't really gain much.

I'm not setting out on an Arctic expedition and I know it won't be cozy as home, but little gains can sometimes make HUGE improvements! Houses existed for a long time without double pane windows and dual seal doorways, a lot still don't have them. You are correct about the box though, without some sort of insulation there, insulating the roof does a lot less good!
 

Hnoroian

Observer
Insulation in the camper is great but have you considered a few down/synthetic blankets or double bags?

For what it's worth I've slept in the bed with a shell snow skiing in sub 20* (not -20*) for multiple nights and was plenty warm with down blankets on top of an air mattress. I am currently looking for a shell to do the same, it had crossed my mind multiple times to try to insulate the inside but never did. I would usually wake up with condensation on the windows or just crack them open just a tad.
 

robert

Expedition Leader
If you've got a bit of insulation you'd be surprised how much even a single candle lantern can help. Obviously I'm not going to leave it going when I fall asleep but it'll help before going to bed and in the morning. I'd like to add a small radiant heater like one of these canister heaters but I haven't gotten around to ordering one. I've got one of the Coleman catalytics (since discontinued by Coleman since a handful of stupid people accidentally killed themselves with them) but it's really too large for the back of the Tacoma. Again, not an overnight use thing and I have a smoke/CO detector I carry in the winter, but it'll quickly take the chill off.

Tossing a water bottle filled with hot water in your sleeping bag before climbing in helps as does wearing appropriate sleeping wear such as a hat. When the temp starts getting below 20F I'll sometimes put one of those Thermacare heating pad things on my back (the kind for back pain). Put it up high near your kidneys and it'll definitely help warm you as it warms the blood going through your kidneys. The newer versions are supposed to last up to sixteen hours but I haven't tried one of them.
 

6gun

Active member
Insulation in the camper is great but have you considered a few down/synthetic blankets or double bags?

For what it's worth I've slept in the bed with a shell snow skiing in sub 20* (not -20*) for multiple nights and was plenty warm with down blankets on top of an air mattress. I am currently looking for a shell to do the same, it had crossed my mind multiple times to try to insulate the inside but never did. I would usually wake up with condensation on the windows or just crack them open just a tad.

I have the gear and experience to go well below zero with nothing but what I can carry, I know I can do without insulating the shell, I'm just looking for ideals, input and experience from some that may have done it. I'm hoping to have it insulated and mounted with platform built in time for Expo east. As soon as possible I'll report methods used/results and opinions experienced.

And Robert, those new 16hr pads do work great but I haven't seen nearly 16hrs out of one.
 

robert

Expedition Leader
Cool, I'll have to give them a try. I've still got a couple of the older ones around here somewhere but I think they're eight hours- and I usually got around six or seven of actual heat.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
You probably know this, but an uninsulated shell or one with non-absorbent lining on the overhead will probably drip condensation into the shell on cold nights. Been there, done that, not fun to wake up wet.
 

rajacat

Active member
The Bedrug will help insulate the floor and sides of the bed. Easy on the knees and can be cleaned with a power washer. https://bedrug.com/bedrug-classic-bedliners
ex_q80_w700_h500_bedrug-bedliners-7.jpg
 

smlobx

Wanderer
You might want to see if you can find a spray foam insulation contractor in your area and see if he can spray about 1/2 - 1" of closed cell foam. You'll have to tape off the areas you don't want affected as the stuff will stick to everything and is very difficult to remove.
It is also flammable (like other options presented) so you shouldn't use and flame source near it.

This will fill all the nooks and crannies of your shell and provides the best R value per inch...
 

6gun

Active member
You might want to see if you can find a spray foam insulation contractor in your area and see if he can spray about 1/2 - 1" of closed cell foam. You'll have to tape off the areas you don't want affected as the stuff will stick to everything and is very difficult to remove.
It is also flammable (like other options presented) so you shouldn't use and flame source near it.

This will fill all the nooks and crannies of your shell and provides the best R value per inch...

I'm gonna be asking around about this! Great ideal!
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
Getting ready to take a big trip next year and I was planning on mounting up my Leer camper shell. I got to thinking that a little insulation might not be a bad ideal. First thought was maybe spraying the inside of the shell with Lizard Skin or similar product. Second thought was using spray adhesive and the reflective coated insulation from Home Depot or such. I know I can't be the first so what has everyone else resorted to?

did we determine which Leer cap you have? a fiberglass camper with all its compound curve goodness will require a different approach than a contractor style aluminum cap.
 

6gun

Active member
did we determine which Leer cap you have? a fiberglass camper with all its compound curve goodness will require a different approach than a contractor style aluminum cap.

It's a slightly raised fiberglass unit. Just got a line on one that is a little higher. More headroom is always better!
 

explore74

New member
. As it is, if I expect it to be cold I hang wool blankets inside. I tie paracord to the rings attached to the Yakima track bolts and drape the blankets over them. It's not pretty but it makes a noticeable difference. Ideally I'd like to sew a wool tent-like setup with clips but it's not something I've gotten around to doing.

Hi Robert,
I don't get where you put the blankets and how it works.
Do you have pictures ?

Thanks !
 

robert

Expedition Leader
Hi Robert,
I don't get where you put the blankets and how it works.
Do you have pictures ?

Thanks !


I don't have any pictures but I'll try to explain it. Forgive me if you already know some of this. Yakima uses some funky rounded plastic nuts on the inside of the camper; they're designed so you don't gouge your head I guess. Anyways, I mounted some D-ring picture hangers (ex. https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-20-lb-Steel-D-Ring-Hangers-2-Pack-50207/100058482) under the nuts. You have to open up the diameter of the last hole slightly but that's easy with a step bit. Tie a piece of paracord between the D-rings then just drape the blankets over the paracord. I use one larger blanket going from one side to the other- up the left, across the top and down the right side; think of it kind of like a wool tube tent maybe. Now drape another smaller blanket from the front and one from the back and you you have your own "blanket fort". You can just let it drape down or use some spring clips to attach the blenket ends to the sides. It just provides an extra airgap between the cap and the interior, similar to when you see folks throw blankets or tarps over their tents.

My truck bed is normally covered with a piece of carpeted plywood and I can put as much insulation under me as I think I might need. During the winter I typically add some closed cell foam pads then my Cabela's Alaskan Guide sleeping pad (sadly discontinued and Bass Pro sucks), then whatever sleeping bag I'm using. I have a piece of thin closed cell foam Velcroed to the front of the bed where my head is to help as well.
 

2.ooohhh

Active member
For the topper you could buy sheets of neoprene, it works extremely well at insulating, is easy enough to work with and can be applied with contact adhesive(be sure to test a spot before committing as not all will be compatible), or even a few dots of silicone adhesive every square foot if you want to be able to remove it later.
 

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