BALs are ideal for me. I mounted them at an angle to accommodate the length, and added the optional swivel feet so they don't sink into the dirt.
I also use a bit in a cordless drill to level it up.
This is an early BAD video showing the mechanics in motion. Nearly ran it up into my 1950s garage door opener!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fbuuawnq9DE
I had plans to mount a motor but designed the lift to use a 1/4 hex bit at any corner as backup. Not sure if I'll ever bother with a permanent mounted motor since it works so fast and easy with my 18v dewalt.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=o5Z8xQBM1jU
Here's some pics of the lift screws, standing upside down. I turned down the 48" long 3/4" acme rods to 1/2" to hit the root, slip fit sprockets, and roll pinned. Bronze bushings inserted through the 3" steel tube chassis support it. The top 3/4" i.d. bushings aren't shown.
Thanks. That was a part of the trailer design to be able to swap from 33" to the tiny tires, swap the hitch coupler, and pull with either the mini or jeep. I haven't found the deal for a set of bigger tires yet so I'm holding off on mounting the fenders.
I've been trying different things, read the picture posting sticky. If I try to add a link like instructed I get an error "An error has occurred Detroitoutdoors! You are not allowed to post links." Do I need some sort of approval or minimum posts?
It's a TuffStuff tent.
The chassis is steel tubing, the enclosure is aluminum framework and skin. Suspension is OME YJ springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, 3500lb electric and parking brake axle. The lift system is chain driven acme screws. I've got lots of pics but they're too high res and I'm not...
I've been putting together a camp trailer designed for backcountry use with my CJ5. My goals are comfort, self contained for weekends mostly but a week shouldn't be a problem with planned packing. Unfortunately my Jeep is in the middle of some upgrades so the trailer beat it to the street. A...