Recent content by bcaine

Great project. When you get there I'm interestedin your solution to the ps cooler. I have the same issue to tackle after cutting my crossmember.

I saw that one listed today too. I'm not looking but do work in Nashville. Let me know if you pick it up and need a wrench partner.

I don't know my van eras perfectly, but is this the type of conversion you're looking for? This was pulled from the agile off-road site a while back.

Pick up either q-cell or microballoons. Both are ultralight powders that can be mixed into your resin. They also make sanding a breeze and can be glassed over again if needed. Since your resin is still curing, it'll be stronger to continue with the same resin vs switching to bondo. I order...

I hope you don't perceive this as being overly critical of your ride height ambitions. It's just a set of measurements that I ran up against in the 50 that may throw off your factory ride height ambitions without some really heavy mods to existing components. I will gladly be wrong on this...

Second to Raul's recommendation. As you move the van up, relative to the axle, the radius becomes more vertical in its orientation. For extreme comparison, consider the radius arm totally vertical... If up drive over a bump, the radius arm transfers the full impact straight up into the frame...

Not trying to clutter... I'm just looking for what I think may help. If you study this one closely, you can see how the ECM was cut. Pay close attention to where the front lip is and isn't cut away. And here's the agile jig. The three bolt holes I referenced above (some factory rivets) have...

Oops, I somehow missed that you were doing a 44. When you remove the passenger side beam pivot (which mounts to the drivers side of the ECM) you will see three holes in the ECM. One or two of those are also where the motor mounts bolt to the ECM. They make good reference points. Pretty sure...

Still going Believe it or not, my project still lives on... I have done a ton of research and will gladly share my best guesses on things. Here is what I have learned so far: 1) you have to SERIOUSLY trim the ECM... I did trim a little, check the fit, trim more, check the fit... Repeat. I now...

Don't know the background behind your question, so apologies if I'm off base. In case the concern is over the strength of plywood vs osb, the actual material used isn't of significance, it's the thickness of that material that matters. That's why surfboards can have cores made of foam. At your...

Amazing work and thanks for taking the time to post all the photos. I'm in the middle of trimming/reinforcing my crossmember for ttb swap. Can't wait to see what you come up with for reinforcement.

Follow up: after pulling the steering box I ended up doing exactly what finally worked above. Ground a groove, punched with chisel then put the puller on it. Glad I never fooled around with the box on the van. My puller had to be ground smaller before it would work.

Thanks to all for the advice. A little wiggle room helped, but the puller still wasn't going on. As though the arm was pressed too far up the output. Decided early to just remove the thing and press off the arm. The three frame bolts came off nicely and the pressure lines were a breeze. The...

Going more for convenience in this case than thrift, I purchased a "pronged" pitman arm removal tool with the two arms. It is a tight fit to say the least, and I know how terrible arms can be. The lobes on the arms are a bit too large to fit between the steering gear box and the pitman arm, so...

Mwilliams, thanks for the links. Those are indeed some changes... Useful pictures any time there are dana50 projects. Can't beat this bronco for relevance to setting up this project. (Edit: should have been Blazer) Thanks agile for the info on bending moment. The physicist in me goes nuts for...