Irwin the 1995 Disco (200tdi and 5 Spd swapped)

Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
Just use Jubilee clips for the time being.

I've used top and bottom relaocators in the past. I think Gwynn Lewis's bottom (lower) relocators are the best, but I just fitted a cheap second hand pair of Devon 4x4 top relocators on the Disco, and they've been fine
 

Colorofkris

Well-known member
Just use Jubilee clips for the time being.

I've used top and bottom relaocators in the past. I think Gwynn Lewis's bottom (lower) relocators are the best, but I just fitted a cheap second hand pair of Devon 4x4 top relocators on the Disco, and they've been fine

Gotcha. I will go the jubilee clips first and see how that goes.


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Colorofkris

Well-known member
Quick Mid November Update-

New brake pads installed todays as well as the hose clamps on the rear springs to see if we can keep those in place. Not much of an update but it’s something. Also finally installed the heavy duty drive flanges.

Coming up in the next month -
The passenger side cv joint is starting to fuss. I will be doing the swap soon as well as the wheel bearings.

I would also like to get the hood sanded down, painted, and wrapped. Wheels might also get paint soon too.

Still need to find the issue with the hella fogs.

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Colorofkris

Well-known member
Looks like I will be doing the cv joint and wheel bearings on the passenger side this weekend. Rover is shaking similar to the way it was last year when the drivers went out, also getting a crackling noise when in revere and I turn the wheel from that side.


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Colorofkris

Well-known member
New cv joint and wheel bearings installed on the passenger side. New rubber coupling jt for the rear shaft on its way. Also ordered a rear pinion seal since it’s leaking diff fluid. Rover is driving way better now but still has an odd shake, hoping the coupling will fix that, inspected the current one and found it is starting to dry rot and tear.

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Colorofkris

Well-known member
Rubber coupling replacement didn’t go so well, so instead I ordered a new drive shaft with the u joint to replace it. Hopefully this solves my shake issue. Below is a pick if the rubber bushing and the flex joint. The flex joint was definitely torn up and the bushing was completely shot. While removing the bushing I did a number on the drive shaft and decided to cut my losses with the rubber flex joint and build it better. I’ve heard a lot of positive feed back on the replacement rear shaft so hopefully it will do me well.

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Colorofkris

Well-known member
Definitely an upgrade, I did this to my D2 when I needed to change the rotoflex. It's nice that you will now have a serviceable unit.

I’ve heard nothing but good things about doing the swap. I was hoping to push it off until next year but decided now was the time.


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Colorofkris

Well-known member
What sort of shake?

The whole truck shakes at 45-60mph. Definitely in the drive train. Rotors are not warped, both cv joints have been replaced, swat bars and tie rod ends all look good, a frame ball joint is good, all u joints look good. No shake until I backed out of my drive way and the cv jt went, after replacing it the shake was a lot less aggressive. This was the next culprit on the list. As rough as both parts look I’m thinking that it has a lot to do with it, if it’s not the issue then it’s just another thing off the list.


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Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
Shake will be wheels/linkage. Props would be vibration

Have you checked the panhard rod bushes? Have you checked the trailing arm to rear axle casing bushes?
 

Colorofkris

Well-known member
Shake will be wheels/linkage. Props would be vibration

Have you checked the panhard rod bushes? Have you checked the trailing arm to rear axle casing bushes?

Those will be next on my list to check. It’s coming from the back of the truck, and I don’t feel it much in the steering wheel.


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Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
The axle case mountings, for the trailing arms, get tired after a while, with potential elongation of the bolt holes. Also the bushes are short lived, if rubber bonded. SuperPro would be better
 

Colorofkris

Well-known member
The axle case mountings, for the trailing arms, get tired after a while, with potential elongation of the bolt holes. Also the bushes are short lived, if rubber bonded. SuperPro would be better

Though the Discovery feels light years better with the new driveshaft it did no fix the issue. I will be getting the rover up on stands tomorrow since it finally stopped raining here to check around and see what’s going on.


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Nonimouse

Cynical old bastard
Driveshafts/propshafts rarely cause shake, unless massively out of true or lifted by 4+"

What you tend to get is vibration, through the manual gearstick. This can be sorted easily by turning the prop one spline out of phase, either back or forward (or you can buy an expensive double carden prop...

Wheel shimmy/shake checks start with the tyres, then the wheels, then the kingpins, trailing arm and hockey stick bushes, panard rod bushes, collapsable steering shaft UJ joints, steering colum bearings
 

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