Mercedes Overland Building/Tuning

Geo.Lander

Well-known member
It had new batteries installed here, so very new.
I think it’s the alternator.

I drove it around yesterday, making 4-5 stops, then hit the road this morning.

Martin from Terra Exp also drove it around, getting the title, etc.

I thinkit’s just been starting on-the batteries and they finally ran down.

I got a tow after a dozen calls, most did not want to touch it when I told them what it was.

it’s at a shop now and they will take a look at it tomorrow. Hopefully it is the alternator and they can get another one to fit or rebuild the Existing one.

it could have been much worse, I was broke down in a shopping center with bathrooms, food, AC, (freaking hot in Florida right now)

they had to tow it from the rear, and could get to itfrom either end where I was parked, been on the side of the road on interstate 75, there would have been no u-turns to get to the rear.

Thanks for the tips guys, I’ll keep you posted on what happens.

Get yourself a decent multimeter, then you dont have to guess, good luck mate!
 

Neil

Observer
My 1017 must be in neutral to start. If its not it is simply dead.

On top of my gearbox is a switch. I have had this fail so it's worth checking. It can be easily bypassed to check .

Neil
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
No panic, just irritated that I only made 70mi before a breakdown ?

too late on the disconnecting of driveshafts before towing.

when I finally found some one willing to tow it, I called Martin from Terra-Exp , (the seller) and walked through all the things needed to tow, and there was no mention of disconnecting driveshafts.

Had everything in neutral, it’s an automatic, and the transfer case set to the 0 setting. So that should have disconnected the front driveshaft??

had to tow it from behind, and the front wheels rolled free when we tested them before we started towing.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
It had new batteries installed here, so very new.
I think it’s the alternator.

I drove it around yesterday, making 4-5 stops, then hit the road this morning.

Martin from Terra Exp also drove it around, getting the title, etc.

I thinkit’s just been starting on-the batteries and they finally ran down.

I got a tow after a dozen calls, most did not want to touch it when I told them what it was.

it’s at a shop now and they will take a look at it tomorrow. Hopefully it is the alternator and they can get another one to fit or rebuild the Existing one.

it could have been much worse, I was broke down in a shopping center with bathrooms, food, AC, (freaking hot in Florida right now)

they had to tow it from the rear, and could get to itfrom either end where I was parked, been on the side of the road on interstate 75, there would have been no u-turns to get to the rear.

Thanks for the tips guys, I’ll keep you posted on what happens.

If it is the alternator, call Holly Nations at Nations Starter and Alternator. (Giver her my best.) https://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/

It ain't easy, but she found an alternator for me. You will have to crosswalk a ton of part numbers and they cannot guarantee that it will fit.

Best wishes!
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
I was told there are a couple places around here that could potentially rebuild it.

My plan, once I got it home, was to replace things like alternators and then use the takeoffs as backups.

my biggest problem is I just laid eyes on it for the first time Wednesday, have no tools, no shop manual, no owners manual in English, so I’m really flying blind.

part of the adventure, right?
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
All part of the learning curve, and only way to learn. I had to take my starter motor out in a busy fuel station once after the solenoid went bad. Some cleaning up of contacts and reassembly and I was back on the road, but we were 2000km from home, and had to do repeat the exercise three times on the way home. Was a bit stressful every time you stop no knowing if it would start again. Now I can take the starter out, strip and re-assemble it in 15 minutes. I figured out the main contact as misaligned, and have not had a problem since, and I also carry two overhaul kits as well. Once you get it home, try rebuilding the alternator yourself, the worst that can happen is you have to buy a new one.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Have a question for the experts:

I understand that the pneumatic fitting below the drivers door is two way.

You can use it for pressurizing the tanks to get the parking break to release. If not running.

is there a lever or switch somewhere that lets you use air OUT to a connected hose to inflate tires AND a way to get pressure IN to-get the brake to release?
 

Joe917

Explorer
The pneumatics on all these trucks are different. Our hose coupling was on the passenger side. You can pump air into the tank with compressor and a double male fitting. Caging the rear brakes is the more typical way to to release the brakes for towing.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
I had a standard, US garage air fitting installed. I can use it to inflate tires/run wrench. When I broke down en route to OEXPO East last year the tow truck used it to pressurize the system allowing the parking brake to release and the vehicle to be towed. (Did drop the drive shaft for long tows.)
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Have a question for the experts:

I understand that the pneumatic fitting below the drivers door is two way.

You can use it for pressurizing the tanks to get the parking break to release. If not running.

is there a lever or switch somewhere that lets you use air OUT to a connected hose to inflate tires AND a way to get pressure IN to-get the brake to release?
Ok, please understand I am far from an expert on the air system in our truck. But here it goes (and please anyone jump in and correct me). I think our truck air system is a 4 circuit system. 1 for the front axle brake, 2 for the rear axle brake (I may have 1 and 2 reversed), 3 for the parking brake and 4th for aux. On our truck the air system to use to fill tires is on the 4th circuit. I am sure this makes perfect sense but the 4th circuit is actually shut off when the air is fully charged at 8 bar. In order to reopen this circuit you need to pump the brakes to bleed off air (this is in the owners manual). When pumping back up our tires I end up just letting air escape from my filler to reduce the chance of having to stop filling tires and pump the brake pedal. I also have a 24v DC air pump installed so that if I need to charge the air system I can (used it in Death Valley when our water pump grenaded, which is the central pulley for the air pump), it is also handy for filling bicycle/motorcycle tires.

So hopefully you have had your starting problem resolved. We have had 2 aftermarket alternators fail, when that happens you are unable to remove the ignition key. Given your truck is also a firetruck and likely has the headlights on full time you could drain a battery pretty quickly. I have replaced our headlights with LEDs and also installed a remote battery cutoff switch. We also carry a spare started and alternator.

You likely have things under control but if you need anything (like access to the parts catalog or workshop manual, or general parts searching) just let me know. I have the EPC/WIS on this computer (I would need your VIN). I think you have our email address, feel free to contact me that way if you want any help.
 

mog

Kodiak Buckaroo
The pneumatics on all these trucks are different.
Joe917 is spot on. The fitting on my 1017 below the driver's door was to raise the cab (dreifachkabine) with 'shop' air pressure instead of hand pumping.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
The pneumatics on all these trucks are different. Our hose coupling was on the passenger side. You can pump air into the tank with compressor and a double male fitting. Caging the rear brakes is the more typical way to to release the brakes for towing.
What is ‘caging the brakes’ ?

I was told the two ways to release the brakes when not running was:

1.) pressurized system through aux air port, the one below drivers door.
2.) loosen the hex nut on the brake actuator, it controls the mechanical spring that locks the brakes when not running.

obviously looking for the easy way. But it’s just a male pneumatic fitting, don’t know if just hooking up air in would work with out some way to open/close it.
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
Joe917 is spot on. The fitting on my 1017 below the driver's door was to raise the cab (dreifachkabine) with 'shop' air pressure instead of hand pumping.
I’ve hand pumped up the cab twice- what a chore! Was already thing about how I can make that easier!
 

RoamIt

Well-known member
So the shop that was supposed to look at it Friday, did not and they actually called me Friday night at closing time to complain that they could not get the brakes off and the owners manual is in German ?

on their website they specifically call out on their listing Mercedes heavy trucks as trucks they service.

they are closed the weekend, if there is a part to be ordered it could be another week before it shows up. And there’s some lack faith in them, and I suspect that things like belts/hoses/clamps etc are also ‘antique’ on the truck.

so even if they get it fixed in a week or so, I’m still driving a suspect truck with 12yr old tires, no tac, no speedo.

so I’m making the call to put it on a flatbed to transport it home-that’s going to be thousands of dollars.

I got a last minute flight out on Sunday (also expensive).

so my first expedition is ending before it ever really started.

ill write up an after action report when this exciting episode is over and hopefully I will learn something or others might.

thanks again for all the advice, you guys are awesome.
 

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