1120 AF Build in Norway
- Thread starter Geo.Lander
- Start date
Geo.Lander
Well-known member
It was delivered safely to the north sea terminal thankfully. I didnt like the look of that front belt either
Alloy
Well-known member
Surprised to see bare copper. Are the battery terminals aluminum?
.....and fuses on the BMS wires?
Last edited:
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Battery terminals, like most prismatic cells, are aluminum. The copper/aluminum join is treated with Noalox. The BMS wires are tiny and not fused. They do not carry any current. The whole battery is fused at the main disconnect. The internal leads are under 24 inches. (FWIW, I don't know of any battery that is internally fused. But I might be wrong.)
Alloy
Well-known member
I've worked with alum for decades and something I'd never do is put aluminum and bare copper together.
I believe crimping is the only UL/CSA approved CU/AL connection method now.
Alum bars and/or tin plated lugs is 100X better.
Doesn't take much or long to wear through the +/- .023 insulation on 22-24ga wire. A 2A fuse close to the battery is cheap insurance.
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Do you know of any prismatic cell that does not have an aluminum to copper join?
Most batteries use stainless steel bus bars, but the problem is that they loosen with time. And, in my case, I would need two different lengths.
I don't know of any lithium iron battery manufacturer that fuses their BMS wires.
In any case, all connections require an annual inspection.
Most batteries use stainless steel bus bars, but the problem is that they loosen with time. And, in my case, I would need two different lengths.
I don't know of any lithium iron battery manufacturer that fuses their BMS wires.
In any case, all connections require an annual inspection.
VerMonsterRV
Gotta Be Nuts
Pretty sure our prismatic cell terminals are stainless as were the supplied nyloc nuts and bars. They also sent 2 different lengths so you could connect the batteries side by side or stacked. If anyone is interested they are the 100ah Frey cells. I have to agree @Alloy , copper to aluminum is not a great mix as they are pretty far apart on the Galvanic Reaction Chart . The Noalux is attempting to create a layer of Zinc between the aluminum and copper. Your aluminum terminals will act as an anode to the copper lugs and unless the Noalux coating is 100% will corrode. Although more fun for you, it would be better if you found some zinc plated copper lugs like these Spectro Ring Terminal - 4 Gauge - 3/8" Ring ID - Copper - Zinc Plated - Qty 1 Spectro Wiring SWC57025Z (etrailer.com) , tinned would be a second best but I put some effort in getting the zinc plated ones as zinc is pretty close to copper galvanically. One of my least favorite things on the boat was dealing with galvanic corrosion on the mast. Even with high tech coatings like Tef Gel our stainless fittings would corrode the aluminum.
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Believe the cells to be these - very commonly used. But I will be sure to check for corrosion. Like the zinc plated connectors - could have easily used them.
EVE 3.2V 280Ah LiFePO4 Prismatic Battery Cell
Factory sale grade A prismatic cells lifepo4 3.2v 280ah battery for energy storage and power lifepo4 battery
evlithium.com
Last edited:
Alloy
Well-known member
I've never seen Zinc plated lugs before. All I've ever (30 years) used is tin plated. Not sure if I've missed zinc or it's something new. The zinc lugs are from Spectro and they all have different markings. Maybe the zinc plating isn't done by the lug mfg.
Over the years I've been sold alum plated lugs, packages of lugs that split when crimped, spades so thin they fold. Some of these have been from dealers who advertise UL lugs then buy a less expensive product without knowing what to look for.
If a lug doesn't have a UL I don't use it. The cost difference isn't worth worrying about.
These are the brands I've used. When buying from a reseller one still needs to check the lugs are what they ordered.
Heavy Duty Lugs
For your marine electrical & marine wiring projects, our heavy-duty lugs are100% tinned copper & available in our marine electrical accessories department
www.vertex-marine.com
Home | Ancor
www.ancorproducts.com
Marine Grade Tinned Copper Battery Cable Lugs | SELTERM
SELTERM Tinned Copper Battery Cable lugs are ideal for making marine grade cables that can withstand advese conditions. UL & CUL listed, rated to 600V DC and salt spray tested, they are ideal for boats, pleasure crafts, heavy duty truck, snowmobiles etc.
selterm.com
UL Listed Battery Compression Lugs - Panduit | DigiKey
Panduit’s UL Listed battery compression lugs (BCL) provide OEM quality termination for heavy-duty power connector applications.
www.digikey.ca
Alloy
Well-known member
When buying from a trading company one should know they will want to ship what they have which might not be what you order.
Lithium battery mfg in China don't finish the terminals. It is done by a reseller who buys 10,000's of cells at a time. Trading companies don't have the $$ to buy 10,000 cells so they buy from resellers or buy Grade B (used) cells and re-cover them or swtich QR codes to make the cell look new.
I'd only pay for cells with Paypal and/or a credit card.
Once the cells are received a voltage and capacity test needs to be done ASAP so a claim can be made IF needed.
Evlithium is posting an descritptiojn of the QR code and other info which is a good sign but one still need to be careful. Shipping battereis back to China will cost 1/2 of what the batteries are worth
Edit: Some 280Ah cells have small 11mm diameter aluminum terminals which under hight load is not ideal.
Last edited:
Alloy
Well-known member
It depends on the experiences you've had and how the leads are secured.
This is the inside of a EG4 server rack battery. Note the welded to the terminals.
Here's a Battle Born with hot glue
DiploStrat
Expedition Leader
Methinks we are mixing several things here:
-- Copper to aluminum joins require attention. I used Noalox - wish I had known about the tinned connectors; would have been even nicer.
-- Never seen BMS balance wires fused. As noted, most are so small that they act like fusible links. The folks in that video do nice work.
-- I am not building a commercial product. My battery is completely enclosed and covered. And yes, when working on it I have to cover all the terminals, etc. At my age is is very easy to drop a tool or a screw. But then, no one else is going to work on these batteries.
Finally, I grew up in Asia. That is why there is such a premium on buying from dealers who have been known to give good service. That said, I ordered extra cells - I have no expectation that any of these folks would ever actually warranty their product.
-- Copper to aluminum joins require attention. I used Noalox - wish I had known about the tinned connectors; would have been even nicer.
-- Never seen BMS balance wires fused. As noted, most are so small that they act like fusible links. The folks in that video do nice work.
-- I am not building a commercial product. My battery is completely enclosed and covered. And yes, when working on it I have to cover all the terminals, etc. At my age is is very easy to drop a tool or a screw. But then, no one else is going to work on these batteries.
Finally, I grew up in Asia. That is why there is such a premium on buying from dealers who have been known to give good service. That said, I ordered extra cells - I have no expectation that any of these folks would ever actually warranty their product.
Geo.Lander
Well-known member
For those that were curious about a full on lynx input, shunt/ main fuse and DC distribution setup.
Clearly see the shunt in the middle with the main positive fuse holder.
I'm still waiting on my 2020 profiles and most of the electrical terminals to start to "power brick" build out (or so I'm calling it). The power in is a bit of a space hog considering I'll only be using 2 out of the 4 inputs..
Clearly see the shunt in the middle with the main positive fuse holder.
I'm still waiting on my 2020 profiles and most of the electrical terminals to start to "power brick" build out (or so I'm calling it). The power in is a bit of a space hog considering I'll only be using 2 out of the 4 inputs..
Iain_U1250
Explorer
Wow, that is a big bit of kit. Big fuse box and a shunt? Curious why there are fuses on the input - they should be on the battery side of the wire to do any good
Last edited:
Geo.Lander
Well-known member
So, it can be orientated however you like, the picture shows the input on the left and DC distribution on the right (fused but no fuses installed). The "power in" can also be modified with for fuses as a cheaper version of DC "distributor".
Yea, they are big actually, but they will end up saving volume when you account for the fuses, bus bars and shunt all combinedI think plus make things a bit more elegant.... We will see ?