Water purification, LED UV, specifics....

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Filtration is the easy part. Use whatever you want to get things filtered down to 5 micron.
1 filter, 2 filters, 12 filters.... doesn't matter. Then blast it with UV to kill the nasties. No sweat right?

And to be clear up front, much of our travel is extended wilderness.
I'm looking to buy or build a system I that allows me to simply drop a hose into a fresh water creek or lake to re-fill.
Just looking for some insight essentially, to both the LED and (non-LED) UV purification units, if possible.

Anyhow...

A couple of units up for discussion, mainly for the components they use.
The GuzzleH20 https://www.guzzleh2o.com/products/stealth
They have a variety of options, the most intriguing is their STREAM, https://www.guzzleh2o.com/products/stream
that does exactly what Id like, though big $$ and I really don't need a portable unit.
The Stealth is a bit more up my alley, but again, what I'm focusing on is the UV purifier itself. https://www.guzzleh2o.com/products/stealth

All GuzzleH2O products use a very trick LED UV-C made by PearlAqua. https://www.aquisense.com/pearlaqua-micro

Likely not cheap though, but good stuff isn't going to be. But my primary concern is serviceability.
Say the LED bulb fails on you, as far as I can tell the entire unit must be swapped out.
I reached out to them via email, but nothing came of it, yet.

Looks like the unit runs about $400 alone. https://threeuv.com/product/pearlaqua-micro


The second unit is made by WaterSafePro https://watersafepro.com/index.html
Much more traditional units, and the cost reflects that. The Model 512 is a smoking deal for what it is. $265 https://watersafepro.com/models500-512.html
They use a traditional (non-LED) UV purifier, though that's my issue with them. They claim they are RV rated, but due to their design they are inherently fragile.
My biggest concern is long term reliability off the beaten path. Though these units are easily serviceable, and parts/bulbs are cheap.

I've been in contact with Jesse at WaterSafePro and he mentioned that these models are being phased out,
in favor of LED versions, likely due to the same (fragile) concerns. So now Im also excited to see what they come up with.

Unless its the same PearlAqua unit. :ROFLMAO:
 

Joe917

Explorer
UV bulbs have a high failure rate when repeatedly turned on and off.
Pre filter then bleach in the tank then carbon block filter to remove bleach. Done.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Why not? It's what your city does. Probably the best way to treat serious crawlies.

Interesting that the Park Service recommends beach after you use a UV light.

Actually our city does not.
Its treated as needed. More often then not, it is not needed.
When it is needed, chlorine gas is used.
Simpler than the cocktail that is "bleach"

Anyhow, unless you have some relative info on other LED or non-LED purifiers, just don't bother.
Thanks
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Out of many thousands of threads on the topic, never seen anyone relying on UV

Watermaking from seawater is a solved issue, plenty of DIYers out there, not rocket science.

 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Likely due to the confusion between filtration and purification. They are not typically one in the same.

As an avid backpacker, Im full aware of how well a quality filter works. We have used a katadyn pocket for the better part of 20 years now. While it works great, it certainly has its downsides.

Very slow, and being a single filter with no “treatment” it loads up fast. And while its rated for most bacteria, even it is note rated for viruses. With multistage filtration and a purifier, the water doesnt have to be filtered as well, as the purifier neutralizes the nasties that remain, including bacteria and viruses. Higher flow, longer filter life, and more effective than filtration alone.
Filter replacement is also considerably cheaper. The katadyn backpacking filter we use costs nearly $400.
 
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john61ct

Adventurer
Not talking backpacking human pumped, but powered units producing 30-40 gph run off an inverter genset or powerful alternator(s).

Yes the reverse osmosis filters are expensive, but treated right can last many years, tens of thousands of gallons.

In fact best for longevity to use every few days, otherwise need to be "pickled" for storage.

But marine conditions out at sea are very different, I know they say don't use normal watermakers in harbours near human-populated watersheds.

Probably because they don't use UV treatment much.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
And every bit irrelevant. We are talking about low flow, low draw here. As the links I included show, these are units that draw just a few amps and provide less than 1or 2 gpm, typically used for point of use.

Not interested in RO at all, especially for long term use as it strips minerals that I otherwise want, though they have their place in ocean going, as it also provides the capability to desalinate.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Again, please feel free to chime in if you have any insight into either the LED or non-led Purification units.

Otherwise, please dont.

Thanks
 
One note on using UV purification is that if you intend to use an activated charcoal filter it must be after UV treatment. It raises Total Dissolved Solids. TDS reduces the effectiveness of the UV unit. LED UV treatment is the latest in replacing the fragile tube type UV systems. I can't comment on replacing or repairing LED UV systems but will be using one in our new house. Probably the one linked above for whole house use.

You might want to consider an inline TDS meter to monitor filter effectiveness before the UV unit.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Thanks for the insight. Interesting point about the activated charcoal and dissolved solids. Makes sense. (y)
 

Ramdough

Adventurer
One note on using UV purification is that if you intend to use an activated charcoal filter it must be after UV treatment. It raises Total Dissolved Solids. TDS reduces the effectiveness of the UV unit. LED UV treatment is the latest in replacing the fragile tube type UV systems. I can't comment on replacing or repairing LED UV systems but will be using one in our new house. Probably the one linked above for whole house use.

You might want to consider an inline TDS meter to monitor filter effectiveness before the UV unit.

That is interesting that you say carbon should be after the UV unit. Most systems I have seen have the carbon filter before.

Is there a difference between the filters? Maybe carbon block is ok, but GAC is not?

I plan to filter my fill water through a sediment and carbon block filter. I plan to use a UV filter on my drinking and sink water as well.

I have also seen systems that have a post UV filter to “catch” the dead stuff the UV kills. Maybe that is a good place for a fine carbon filter.

[mention]IdaSHO [/mention] I am interested to see what you come up with in this thread. Are you looking at the silver impregnated filters as well to help the filter keep from souring when not flowing?


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