I looked at this same set up and shipped to me it was going to be a little over $400. My biggest obstacle is what length to order. Want to run the same wheels that I do on my Tacoma 16x8 with -10 offset. 285/75/16 tiresMy specs... YMM
Straight 3500#
60" hub to hub (I am using spacers too)
43.25" spring center
electric brakes
Straight ez lube spindles
6x5.5 bolt pattern
Spring pads on top for 2" Springs
3" Tube Upgrade so it bolts up.
Manual Parking Brake
I went 3500 because it matches the data plate and that is what I am registered for and I was able to upgrade to a 3" tube so win all around for me.
Back in 2016 this was about $300ish picked up at my local trailer supply.
I reused the shock mounts from the original axle and had to figure out how to make the parking brakes work with the existing handles, other wise it was a simple swap.
I looked at this same set up and shipped to me it was going to be a little over $400. My biggest obstacle is what length to order. Want to run the same wheels that I do on my Tacoma 16x8 with -10 offset. 285/75/16 tires
I never even thought of that. I'm definitely going to do that. Another good reason to buy a welder lol. ThanksTake one of you Tacoma wheels off, lay it down on a flat smooth surface like the garage floor. Measure from the floor to the mounting flange of the wheel. Multiply that measurement by 2, add it to the width of the trailer tub at the inner fender wells. That number plus 3" is your starting axle WMS to WMS. You can go wider obviously, but I wouldn't go much narrower than 1.5" clearance to the trailer body.
One bit of advice before you start: Most M101 series trailers are less than 48 between the fender wells - something like 45 if I remember right. In my opinion that is an Achilles heel on a trailer this size and capacity. I would strongly suggest moving the fenders out to at least 50" between the wells before settling on axle dimension. If you ever wanted to carry a 4 Wheel camper, 4x8 sheets of drywall or an ATV you will be glad you did it. The welds holding the fenders cut out pretty easy and then they can be slid out a little and re-welded. You would need a couple of fill plates for the floor of course. No biggie.
It will look a bit like a factory M101A3 when you're done and you will have a much more practical trailer. I personally would never own another M101 without that mod.
And here I was thinking my other M101A3 was too wide. But I tow it behind a Jeep, so I like my M101A2 in stock width. The tub is the exact same width as my jeep is with the wider fender flares. And I run an axle the same width as the Jeep (60"). If anything, I'd just widen the inside tub without pushing the fenders out since the Jeep tires I run are a lot narrower than the stock mil-spec tires.It will look a bit like a factory M101A3 when you're done and you will have a much more practical trailer. I personally would never own another M101 without that mod.
If anything, I'd just widen the inside tub without pushing the fenders out since the Jeep tires I run are a lot narrower than the stock mil-spec tires.
Thanks. I'm going to do the 50" space suggestion. Looking like I may go with 66-67" hub face-hub face. Trying to plan ahead if I ever go to 12.5 wide tires. I'm running -10 offset on my wheels but figured for 0 offset just to be safe lol.Take one of you Tacoma wheels off, lay it down on a flat smooth surface like the garage floor. Measure from the floor to the mounting flange of the wheel. Multiply that measurement by 2, add it to the width of the trailer tub at the inner fender wells. That number plus 3" is your starting axle WMS to WMS. You can go wider obviously, but I wouldn't go much narrower than 1.5" clearance to the trailer body.
One bit of advice before you start: Most M101 series trailers are less than 48 between the fender wells - something like 45 if I remember right. In my opinion that is an Achilles heel on a trailer this size and capacity. I would strongly suggest moving the fenders out to at least 50" between the wells before settling on axle dimension. If you ever wanted to carry a 4 Wheel camper, 4x8 sheets of drywall or an ATV you will be glad you did it. The welds holding the fenders cut out pretty easy and then they can be slid out a little and re-welded. You would need a couple of fill plates for the floor of course. No biggie.
It will look a bit like a factory M101A3 when you're done and you will have a much more practical trailer. I personally would never own another M101 without that mod.
So I got what I feel is a pretty good price for a 66" Dexter #5000 axle, 6x5.5 bolt pattern with electric brakes and top mount spring perches. $460 shipped unassembled.
I haven't ordered it yet. I've been debating on that. The trailer o got set for years and the parking brake handles are pretty seized up. Debating whether it's worth messing with.Sounds about what mine spec'd out as. I made sure to upgrade to the manual parking brakes. I hope you did too.