Post up your drawer/storage system

SportsmanJake

Adventurer
I am considering putting some outdoor carpet on top of my double drawer system instead of bedlining it.

How should I seal the plywood before I glue the carpet down?
 

Rezarf <><

Explorer
Finished these up this week...

Drawers house:
  • Main storage drawer for recover/tools/spares
  • Engel Fridge on slide
  • Partner Steel stove on slide
  • 16 gallon water tank
  • Shurflo water pump
  • Shurflo faucet
  • Comtek 150w inverter with 120/usb outlets
  • Alpine 500w sub amp
  • Blue Sea power pole
  • Blue Sea fuse panel
  • Switches for interior/camp lights
  • 12v battery monitor
  • Air compressor storage
6d11be9e-0ff2-467d-8b92-3330f2f9935f-jpeg.2110516


Fridge Slide
ff12ef16-57c6-459d-898e-6d2923fde82b-jpeg.2110525


Stove Slide out.
f58e3c49-9624-4e3b-9744-4bdbda9d6efe-jpeg.2110527
 

OKXterra

New member
Plywood floor, ARB fridge/slide and ARB drawer. OEM subwoofer relocated under fridge. Does not play well with Teraflex cargo thing, can no longer open fridge completely.


4-E81-EF3-B-24-D9-4-CC3-AB4-A-B5-C67-C45-E7-B4.jpg


C05597-D5-F596-4-A95-8-E30-C63-F257-BF9-FF.jpg


6-A5-B370-E-E4-DA-4701-BAD7-232-EE7-C69607.jpg

I really like your set up. What size ARB drawer did you go with and are you still happy with it?
 
Rezarf nicely done! (y)



Finished these up this week...

Drawers house:
  • Main storage drawer for recover/tools/spares
  • Engel Fridge on slide
  • Partner Steel stove on slide
  • 16 gallon water tank
  • Shurflo water pump
  • Shurflo faucet
  • Comtek 150w inverter with 120/usb outlets
  • Alpine 500w sub amp
  • Blue Sea power pole
  • Blue Sea fuse panel
  • Switches for interior/camp lights
  • 12v battery monitor
  • Air compressor storage
6d11be9e-0ff2-467d-8b92-3330f2f9935f-jpeg.2110516


Fridge Slide
ff12ef16-57c6-459d-898e-6d2923fde82b-jpeg.2110525


Stove Slide out.
f58e3c49-9624-4e3b-9744-4bdbda9d6efe-jpeg.2110527


 

gxout

New member
I finally was able to finish my drawers this week. I used a lot of ideas from this thread but mainly started with the idea of something similar to Drifta's system. I went back and forth on using plastic vs. full drawer slides and settled on aluminum strips on the frame with UHMWE on the bottom of the drawers. They work well, but not nearly as smooth as if I would have bought full slides, but for my purposes they work well enough and saved some $$ in the process. I then used Raptor liner on the fronts and black lacquer on the rest. I still need to finish up the wings but I'll wait for it to warm up a little to do that.

My GX had a 3rd row that rarely gets used so I removed them and built a new base platform (first two photos). I made everything to where either side could be removed and I could reinstall one of the rear seats or the drawers could be stacked on top of each other. The plan is if I get a fridge I could put it on the platform, but most of the time I plan on leaving them in the current configuration. I started out with a full plan in sketchup but ultimately made adjustments as I was building so they are approximately 35"(D) x 10" (H) X 21.5" (W) each, the shorter drawer is 7" tall to allow room for the slide out table, that I'll make later. I have all the pieces and just need to get in touch with a local welder to weld the telescoping tent poles to form the legs. The tie down points match the stock location so I can reuse my stock rubber cargo mat and added the extras in the middle if I need them later or switch sides. I wanted everything as modular as possible so if I wanted to make changes later I could. I used four bolts on the bottom of each drawer with threaded inserts into the platform (or the tops of the drawers to be stackable) so it takes less than 10 minutes to install or adjust.

Now that they're together I wish I would have reversed the pull handles with the catch on the bottom of the drawer instead of the top so that if something is in the middle of the drawer shifts it won't catch and prevent the drawer from opening. I put them on top because I was planning on using this as a stop to make sure the drawers didn't pull out too far but now that I've got them assembled that doesn't seem very likely. Lastly I used rivets to secure the pull handles and the protective strips. They seem to hold well for the handles but not the strips. I'll likely end up gluing these down instead.
 

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Last edited:

Cruisn

Adventurer
Went back to basic after the drawers became way to heavy. simple build for a false floor.

Top level houses the 80L waeco, on the right is the 2 x tables, 3 x 20L water jugs and the blue box for our daily use items on the far right is my electrical controls hidden away and underneath the false floor is a 600watt inverter.

Lower level houses, 2 x chairs, first aid kit and recovery bag, and my 2 space cases with cooking gear and dry food.
In front is a full width space case for our clothes and items we dont want dirty or wet. tred tracks also hidden in there as a wall for the items in the back.

Does the job, maximum usage of space out of a shorty. roof rack is packed as well due to roof top tent, 3 x 20L jerry can, tool box and 2 x 3kg LPG bottles. some times wood as required.

Been living out of it for our journey around africa. works well. could use a few changes.



 

amnesia7

Member
I'm currently weighing up about putting drawers in my discovery 1. I was hoping to just stick with using any original points for securing them such as putting lifting eyes in the bolt holes, that are for the side kiddie seats either side of the boot, and then using tie downs connecting to the sides of the drawer system.
This should be fine but I wonder if it might be nice to have a fridge slide like the drifta DSS that is level with the top of the adjacent drawer. However, with my drawers being secured on the sides and no tie downs at the back, I wonder if the weight of the fridge, when slid fully out, would cause the whole thing to tip up.
Does that sound like it could happen?
If I wanted to use a fridge slide would I need a tie down point at the back or would it not be required if the fridge slide was on the boot level rather than above a drawer; to keep the weight lower and below the level that the kiddie seat tie downs are fastened to the sides of my drawer system?
Hopefully that all makes sense
 

amnesia7

Member
Finished these up this week...

Drawers house:
  • Main storage drawer for recover/tools/spares
  • Engel Fridge on slide
  • Partner Steel stove on slide
  • 16 gallon water tank
  • Shurflo water pump
  • Shurflo faucet
  • Comtek 150w inverter with 120/usb outlets
  • Alpine 500w sub amp
  • Blue Sea power pole
  • Blue Sea fuse panel
  • Switches for interior/camp lights
  • 12v battery monitor
  • Air compressor storage
6d11be9e-0ff2-467d-8b92-3330f2f9935f-jpeg.2110516


Fridge Slide
ff12ef16-57c6-459d-898e-6d2923fde82b-jpeg.2110525


Stove Slide out.
f58e3c49-9624-4e3b-9744-4bdbda9d6efe-jpeg.2110527
Are you only meant to use one lockable runner per drawer so that you only need to press one lever to extend / close the drawer? I notice there's only one yellow lever per drawer in these photos.
The lockable drawer slides set I've found on eBay are sold as a pair with a lever on each. Am I supposed to mix and match one lockable set with a non-lockable set of drawer slides/runners?
If so, does it matter whether they are both from the same manufacturer etc or is it just the closed/extended lengths that matter?
Thanks
Col
 

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