MB 1120 Coming to America! Purchase, Build and Now Travel!

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I don't see any disadvantage to using the house bank direct. You wouldn't want the lift stuck due to electronics failure.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Second fuel tank is mounted. I have decided though to swap the 2 tanks fore/aft to change the fill location (the old tank is almost full so will wait till it is down a bit). Also the second "new" tank has a pickup already for the Webasto furnace! Also drilled the hole in the floor for the gray water tank. If all goes as planned the tank will be mounted this week. Oh, you can see the blue tape below the door, that is the start of the entry platform, which should be well underway tomorrow.
IMG_20190811_170319346.jpg
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Probably too late, but I would recommend feeding the Webasto/ESPAR gear from a dedicated 5 USG tank. This makes it much easier to use kerosine and there is a lot of anecdotal evidence that this prevents all manner of annoying problems with soot, especially at altitude - think western US or the altiplano.

It is nice to simply be plumbed into the main fuel tank, but I am going to be looking into adding a dedicated fuel tank for my Dual Top.

In the interim, remember the 20 minute burn every month.
 

Neil

Observer
Diplostrat. Agreed.

Mine feeds from the main tank and I often wish it fed from its own small tank located inside the vehicle. Whilst this wouldn't help with altitude it would help with temperature. Having been at over 5000m at minus 20 running on cheap Bolivian black diesel, you are on a wing and a prayer that it fires up.

Neil
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
A three way valve can be connected to the diesel heaters, with one leg run to a dedicated tank. Alternatively, you can wire 2 pumps with a wye fitting on the output side. Then use a DPDT switch to toggle between the two. The pumps have a build in check valve.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
Probably too late, but I would recommend feeding the Webasto/ESPAR gear from a dedicated 5 USG tank. This makes it much easier to use kerosine and there is a lot of anecdotal evidence that this prevents all manner of annoying problems with soot, especially at altitude - think western US or the altiplano.

It is nice to simply be plumbed into the main fuel tank, but I am going to be looking into adding a dedicated fuel tank for my Dual Top.

In the interim, remember the 20 minute burn every month.

Agreed. Although our Planar diesel heater is only rated for 2500 ft (without the altitude kit) we had ours running without issues for a couple weeks at 10.000ft. To increase the performance we installed a separate 1 gallon tank to be able to fill up with kerosene. Another reason for not plumbing into our fuel tank: this tank has been in place for 16 years... Did not want to tamper with it and end up with new hoses and such...
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Thanks guys for the ideas. Never too late for a change and the idea for a backup kerosene tank is a good one. I would still mount it outside the box though. Lived the last 20 years sitting above a diesel tank and really want to avoid having any fuel inside. Heather and I always joke that people can tell that we are boat people from our "aroma". A wonderful mix of diesel, mold and salt. Yeah, it is not all sunsets and margaritas ;) .

Small update on the metal work, our gray water tank bracket is in place and holding the tank. Still need to take it back off and paint. The tank is about 30 gallons, welded 1/2" polypropylene. I wrapped the front and bottom with 14 gauge steel with 3/16" straps to hold it up. It fits snug against the habitat floor in between the subframe rails. Had a minor setback today. The mount plate for the rear tire ended up being a wee bit low so the tire will not fit on. So we need to cut it off and reweld it a bit higher. All and all not bad given all the work that has been accomplished.
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The entry steps are almost finished. Should have pictures of those tomorrow. We should also start in on the rear storage boxes, some of the needed parts were being bent today in another local shop as Charlie does not have the required brake.
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Rear tire mount is fixed (got a few more small additions that we will use as filler work when the larger projects are complete) and the entry steps/platform is in place. Though I think we will add 2 more struts like the one in the picture to stiffen it up. Plan is to get a small aluminum stool that can act as the first step (we can get in without it, just makes is easier for others), plus I can use it to get in the gear locker. I have stainless spring pins on order to secure the platform both when in and out.
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Work has started on the rear underbody storage boxes. Should be able to get the driver's side bolted in place tomorrow (without the door as Charlie does not have the brake we need to do the doors). This is the more difficult of the 2 as it needs to hold the 12.2 gallon fixed propane tank.
 

sharkbait73

Member
I know this is late to the secure-the-motorcycle part of the discussion but I just stumbled upon this. A bit pricey but something I had never seen before. Sorry if this was already suggested...

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Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
Rear boxes are formed, waiting on a guy to make a few bends for the tops and 1 shelf. Hopefully will get them tomorrow and be able to assemble and fit the boxes. Then bring the truck to the guy with the brake and get the doors made. Can't wait to get the metal work done, I'll admit I am not a huge fan of it. Much rather be working with wood, fiberglass, electrical or plumbing. I think I will take a little break from the metal work to think about the drivers side box that goes between the front/rear tire. It will house the Webasto furnace, Honda Generator, and possibly an integral kerosene tank for the furnace (due to suggestions from you guys). Also want to put a rack to hold a jerry can for gasoline (have a nato spec surplus one on order). Oh, and I have a plan for securing the motorbike. Will post pictures once the couple small things get welded to the platform.
IMG_20190815_162210190.jpg
 

VerMonsterRV

Gotta Be Nuts
So with any luck the rear storage boxes will be mounted tomorrow. Which brings up how we are going to paint this stuff. I am thinking about using U-Pol's 2K epoxy primer followed up with their Raptor bed liner for all the new metal work (lift, storage boxes and gray water bracket). Thinking it might hold up better than normal paint. Any thoughts?

Got the nato jerry can, and now have the bracket on order. I still need to design the storage box that goes between the driver's side tires. This box will house the Webasto furnace and 24v air compressor. And because of the kerosene advice I am considering having a section of it welded off for an integral fuel tank for the furnace. Also the jerry can holder will mount to the aft end of the box.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
I suggest a corrosion inhibiting primer such as what's used on aircraft and boats. These usually contain chromates or zinc compounds which are sacrificial. They will dramatically reduce the risk of rust due to small chips and or imperfections the paint. Bedliner is a good protectant. Not all bedliner products are suitable for sealing primer , it depends on the primer itself.

The epoxy primers do a great job sealing . But if you can't get a perfect coat or if you get chips or damage to the paint, inevitably the corrosion will spread underneath the epoxy primer.
 

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