97 FZJ80 build

[96Suburban]

I have wanted an 80 series ever since i rode in a friends 80 on a local trail here in Tucson. I was blown away by the capability and handling, that I wanted one for myself.
Let's get down to the details!

1997 Land Cruiser triple locked.

Specs/Modifications:
-3" King Springs lift with Ultima shocks
-34" BFG Km2 Mud Terrains on TRD ORP wheels
-Wheel spacers to widen stance and stability
-Double din bluetooth radio


Replaced/Fixed:
-Vacuum lines replaced
-Front axle rebuilt with new birfields
-Slotted and drilled Power Stop rotors with ceramic pads
-A/C system complete evacuation, leak tested and refilled
-VSS on transmission

It needs:
-Rear diff fluid replace (being done this week)
-Speedometer replaced (on the way)
-Dust cap for drivers side front
-Plastic "cap" on the seat, as it will not go forward or backwards- motor is fine however. (ordered)
-Windshield wiper nozzle on hood (ordered)
-Right rear fender flare re attached

My immediate plans for it:
-Install my GMRS radio
-Detail and buff out scratches.
-Re locate LED pods
-Remove third row seats.

My plans for this fall/winter
-Front bumper (not chosen brand yet)
-4x4 Labs rear bumper
-White knuckle offroad sliders
-Bigger tires and different wheels

Long term plans also include removing seats and a good carpet cleaning. Also thinking about having the seats re-done. Also planning on a RTT, and other interior modifications for long trips.

 

[MOAK]

Nice truck. However, I'd loose the wheel spacers asap and strongly consider re-gearing and beefing up your steering components. 34" rubber is pushing the limit of your drivetrains capability in the "stock" form. Because I'm running 285/75s I'm replacing my stock drag link and tie rod ends every 50k miles or so. I'm gonna eventually go with skinny rubber next time around, 255/85s. How many miles on yours? I ask because pulling the head is a regular maintenance thing, about every 150,000 miles or when the valve stem seals begin to leak. Good luck with your new truck.

 

[96Suburban]

Nice truck. However, I'd loose the wheel spacers asap and strongly consider re-gearing and beefing up your steering components. 34" rubber is pushing the limit of your drivetrains capability in the "stock" form. Because I'm running 285/75s I'm replacing my stock drag link and tie rod ends every 50k miles or so. I'm gonna eventually go with skinny rubber next time around, 255/85s. How many miles on yours? I ask because pulling the head is a regular maintenance thing, about every 150,000 miles or when the valve stem seals begin to leak. Good luck with your new truck.

Thanks! I think I am going to go with a wheel that has a bigger offset so the spacers do not need to be used, however I plan to run with what I have until I can afford a new setup. I had Spidertrax spacers on my 4Runner and only used them to prevent the 295"s it had on there from rubbing. As far as I know, everything but the lift is stock. The truck has about 265k on it. The previous owner did most of the baseline work already, as well as brand new head gaskets and new hoses etc, but I would like to upgrade more to beef everything up.

 

[justlexi]

There will be so much work to do to remodel or rather should I say restore this car. I hope that you will keep us posted with the progress and that you will stay motivated in modifying it in the long run. It surely is a nice truck.

 

[96Suburban]

There will be so much work to do to remodel or rather should I say restore this car. I hope that you will keep us posted with the progress and that you will stay motivated in modifying it in the long run. It surely is a nice truck.

Thank you! The goals for this one is ultimate offroad/camping rig, so you'll definitely be seeing upgrades as they are done.

 

[MOAK]

One thing to remember about Landcruisers, Original Equipment Manufactured parts are usually better than a lot of self proclaimed aftermarket , "upgrades".

 

[96Suburban]

One thing to remember about Landcruisers, Original Equipment Manufactured parts are usually better than a lot of self proclaimed aftermarket , "upgrades".

Of course, especially motor parts, and other mechanical stuff. I am going to try to stay with OEM with whatever I can.

 

[96Suburban]

Took it out a few days ago to see how it does compared to my 4Runner. I did a small trail that I did with the old rig, and the difference is night and day. The 80 went right over the same obstacles that the 4Runner struggled on. Lockers worked as I needed them to, and I felt very comfortable going over big dips and rocks.
Taking it on a much more fun trail this Saturday, and i'll try to get a video up.

 

[Box Rocket]

Nice 80! Congrats on picking one up. I'll share some thoughts that might be different from others that have been shared. Other than 4.88 gears my 80's drivetrain/steering/axles are all stock. I push the truck hard and fast and I've put over 100k miles on it since I got it 4 years ago and it's been on 35's that entire time until 6 months ago when I went to 37's. The stock drivetrain is very robust and should hold up fine with 35's. The move to 37's has me looking at upgrading axle shafts but so far it's still been fine.

Also, I've been running Spidertrax wheel spacers, not because the wheels don't fit, but because I like the width/stability. Most important thing is to keep them torqued properly and check them regularly. It's not a bad idea to press in new wheel studs into the Toyota hubs so you know you have fresh strong ones. Torque the spacers to 80ft/lb and use some blue loctite. Torque the wheel nuts to 85ft/lb as well and don't overtorque and you should be just fine.

If you don't drive like an idiot you can avoid a lot of breakage.

For reference, my 80 on 37's with 1.5" wheel spacers.
IMG_2459 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[Box Rocket]

I actually really like the look of those 4Runner wheels on your truck. Pretty sharp.

 

[96Suburban]

Thanks for the input! I like your rig, I was reading your build on Ih8mud the other day. How noticeable is the difference between the stock gearing VS the 4.88 gearing, more specifically on the highway?
And thanks, I like the wheels too, but I will be changing them out once the current tires I have are worn down.

 

[Box Rocket]

Thanks for the input! I like your rig, I was reading your build on Ih8mud the other day. How noticeable is the difference between the stock gearing VS the 4.88 gearing, more specifically on the highway?
And thanks, I like the wheels too, but I will be changing them out once the current tires I have are worn down.

I drove an 80 with 35's and stock gears for 15 years prior to getting this 80. I drove this one for a year or so before regearing. I'm probably in the minority with my opinion but I don't think the 80 is bad at all on 35's with stock gears. That being said, 4.88's have been nice and I'm glad I have them. On the highway, they are most noticeable when climbing hills and canyons. The truck will keep pulling longer on hills before it needs to downshift.

 

[MOAK]

I see a cooling vent atop your hood. Do you have a compressor? If so thats why no problem with 35s. I took one trip out west with 35s years ago. ( 8,000 mile round trip) Very rarely did we see overdrive as it was constantly downshifting for the slightest of grades or lightest of headwinds. I gave up and pushed the button to stay out of overdrive. With 33s it is an entirely different story and I'm in overdrive most of the time.

 

[Box Rocket]

I see a cooling vent atop your hood. Do you have a compressor? If so thats why no problem with 35s. I took one trip out west with 35s years ago. Very rarely did we see overdrive as it was constantly downshifting for the slightest of grades or lightest of headwinds. I gave up and pushed the bottom to stay out of overdrive. With 33s it is an entirely different story and I'm in overdrive most of the time.

No, I do not have a compressor/supercharger. I have the hood scoop to aid in moving hot air out of the engine compartment to keep eng temps cooler. Will be installing additional vents as well. Air in through the scoop and out through the vents. Has helps significantly at reducing engine compartment and intake temps and in turn coolant temps are better.

I still feel like 35's on stock gears is not as bad as many make it out to be. As I said, I drove another 80 for 15 years on 35's with stock gears climbing many of the steep canyons in Utah/Colorado. Personally I drive with the ECT button on all the time. When I am climbing hills I turn off the overdrive. The longer/steeper climbs will lose a bit of speed by the end but otherwise the truck seems to do fine. The 1FZ has no problem running higher rpms (above 4000rpm) for a good stretch so there's really no harm being done.

All that said, regearing to a gear ratio that matches the tire size is a good move. The 4.88's I have now are a near perfect match to the 37" tires and keep a stock driving feel. 4.88's with 35's will be the equivalent of lower than stock gearing with stock tires. Not trying to say that 33's are a bad choice, but for many people there are trails that 33's just aren't enough. Yes the trails can still be done with 33's but the clearance under the axles with 35's and larger tires reduces the amount of dragging the undercarriage and getting hung up on the axles etc. I'd rather avoid that than be too concerned about whether or not the truck drops out of overdrive on the highway. But that's just me.

This is the truck I wheeled for year on 35's with stock gears. Put over 200K miles on it between 2000-2015, many of those miles offroad and driving long distances to and from trails.

 

[bkg]

If it matters, and likely it doesn’t, my buddy has an lx450 with 5.29’s and 35’s. It drives nice, pulls a camper fine. Runs at 3k rpms at 70.