How large is the bank? (I didn't read all the way back.)
Float charge could be 2.7A if the bank is large enough, I think. (Could be wrong on that.) Meaning the monitor is wired to the shunt backwards…
A.
Questions about trailer solar systems and charging off the tow vehicle, and shore power
- Thread starter Pastryslayer
- Start date
How large is the bank? (I didn't read all the way back.)
Float charge could be 2.7A if the bank is large enough, I think. (Could be wrong on that.) Meaning the monitor is wired to the shunt backwards…
A.
dreadlocks
Well-known member
if you unplug the victron it resets to 100% until you recalibrate it.. when you know the battery is fully charged you are supposed to either manually calibrate it at 100% or setup the auto calibrate so it gets triggered by your charging setup..
If the battery is really at 100% right now, drain it down to 50% and check voltage against SOC and see if they are in agreement.
If the battery is really at 100% right now, drain it down to 50% and check voltage against SOC and see if they are in agreement.
I have two of these:
www.extech.com
An extremely useful tool for this kind of thing.
A.
DC400: 400A DC Mini Clamp Meter | Extech Instruments
DC400: Ideal for automotive, heavy equipment and marine DC current measurements. Experience the Extech Advantage
An extremely useful tool for this kind of thing.
A.
Pastryslayer
Member
Bank is 2 6v 245 amp FLA batteries. So a 12v 245 amp system.
Pastryslayer
Member
Update: Had to go out of town for work and didn't get much done. I got a clamp meter and tried some initial measurements but it didn't make much sense. Everything is showing amps but nothing matches what the monitor says is being drawn. Meanwhile the voltage is still 13.5 ish and the charger stays in float.
I have a remote hydration system on the way. Once its in I'm going to button up the trailer. I think it's all working I just have to figure out the monitor issues.
I have a remote hydration system on the way. Once its in I'm going to button up the trailer. I think it's all working I just have to figure out the monitor issues.
Are you expecting a draw like that?
dreadlocks
Well-known member
I still think he needs to check that his shunt is installed the right direction..
Pastryslayer
Member
As far as I can tell, it is. Pretty clearly marked, one side for the battery and the other side for everything else.
I think it's pretty clear I don't know what to expect...totally out of my element with electrical stuff.
Also realized that while the accessory items like the lights and water pump are grounded, the bank itself does not appear to be. Is that an issue? All the negative connections go to something else.
I think it's pretty clear I don't know what to expect...totally out of my element with electrical stuff.
Also realized that while the accessory items like the lights and water pump are grounded, the bank itself does not appear to be. Is that an issue? All the negative connections go to something else.
Pastryslayer
Member
You should be able to see zero draw if nothing is turned on or charging.
That's what I thought. I'm either using the clamp wrong or something is running that shouldn't be.
dwh
Tail-End Charlie
If anything works, with the shore power turned off, then the bank is grounded.
But maybe not grounded properly...
If loads are grounded to the chassis, then the end of the shunt away from the battery should also be grounded to the chassis. The object is to have all electrons to/from the battery flowing through the shunt.
As it is, that should be happening, but...
Um...it's a bit of a myth that electricity follows the path of least resistance. It will actually follow all available paths. Of course, more will flow where the resistance is least.
I see a possibility of electrons flowing through the chassis getting back to the battery via a non-optimal path. Like through something else...like the Iota or the meter, and then to the ground at the shunt.
Adding a nice fat ground wire from the chassis to the shunt should provide an optimum path back to the battery.
The lack of which could theoretically be causing whacky meter readings...
But maybe not grounded properly...
If loads are grounded to the chassis, then the end of the shunt away from the battery should also be grounded to the chassis. The object is to have all electrons to/from the battery flowing through the shunt.
As it is, that should be happening, but...
Um...it's a bit of a myth that electricity follows the path of least resistance. It will actually follow all available paths. Of course, more will flow where the resistance is least.
I see a possibility of electrons flowing through the chassis getting back to the battery via a non-optimal path. Like through something else...like the Iota or the meter, and then to the ground at the shunt.
Adding a nice fat ground wire from the chassis to the shunt should provide an optimum path back to the battery.
The lack of which could theoretically be causing whacky meter readings...
dreadlocks
Well-known member
yeah should be wired up, Battery -> Shunt -> Chassis/Everything Else.. nothing should be connected to negative bank terminal until after it goes through the shunt.
Pastryslayer
Member
Right. That's how I have it.
Then I'm grounded. Everything works.
I'll try that. I think I have a nice fat wire even.