GrandiOdyssey: Circumnavigating the Globe in a '19 Tacoma Build Thread
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GrandiOdyssey
Member
Congrats! Yes I think I will go with the 265s after all. As far a fuel economy goes I am getting 19.7 mpg with an atv and gear in the bed under mix driving conditions so 15mpg seems reasonable fully loaded with 265 KM3s in most conditions.
BajaSurfRig
Well-known member
For what it is worth I drove a similarly heavy first gen Tacoma (3.4 V6 with 5 sp manual) with a Callen Camper throughout Baja for 5 months with 235/85r16's.
I never needed more clearance than those tires provided and I drove down some pretty horrible roads.
Retrospectively I wish that I had re-geared even with the 235's as in first gear I had to let the clutch slip a decent amount when starting off going up hill or in stop and go situations.
I would think alot about GVWR on your Tacoma (try and keep things as light as possible). Yes they are solidly built trucks but they are only engineered for so much. I had a rear wheel bearing go out on my on my trip and had to replace all of my front end bushings when I got home and my truck bed started to fail/crack where it connected to my frame at the two front locations (I had a welder in Baja make some bomber brackets to remedy this). All in all the truck did everything that I asked of it and drove through some places I was shocked it made it through without getting stuck.
I averaged around 13-14 MPG's with a non aerodynamic heavy camper set up FWIW. My range was just over 200 miles with the stock tank and 300 miles with 10 gallons in Jerry cans.
I now have a 96 F350 with a FWC Grandby on the back. Yes it can't get everywhere that my Tacoma could but it is less tiresome to drive long distances, I am way under GVWR and I have an 800 miles range.
Not sure what your budget is but I wish that I had spent more on traveling and less on my truck/ mods.
Just my two cents.
Enjoy your adventure it sounds absolutely epic!!
I never needed more clearance than those tires provided and I drove down some pretty horrible roads.
Retrospectively I wish that I had re-geared even with the 235's as in first gear I had to let the clutch slip a decent amount when starting off going up hill or in stop and go situations.
I would think alot about GVWR on your Tacoma (try and keep things as light as possible). Yes they are solidly built trucks but they are only engineered for so much. I had a rear wheel bearing go out on my on my trip and had to replace all of my front end bushings when I got home and my truck bed started to fail/crack where it connected to my frame at the two front locations (I had a welder in Baja make some bomber brackets to remedy this). All in all the truck did everything that I asked of it and drove through some places I was shocked it made it through without getting stuck.
I averaged around 13-14 MPG's with a non aerodynamic heavy camper set up FWIW. My range was just over 200 miles with the stock tank and 300 miles with 10 gallons in Jerry cans.
I now have a 96 F350 with a FWC Grandby on the back. Yes it can't get everywhere that my Tacoma could but it is less tiresome to drive long distances, I am way under GVWR and I have an 800 miles range.
Not sure what your budget is but I wish that I had spent more on traveling and less on my truck/ mods.
Just my two cents.
Enjoy your adventure it sounds absolutely epic!!
I have an 11 Tacoma on 255/85 and no matter what i get 13 at the most
I would suggest more than 1 spare fuel can but you can buy that anyplace, as for tires go with a size that is common amd eaay to find. If you loose a tire and need a replacement a 35 will be hard to find. 31 to 33 way easier.
I would suggest more than 1 spare fuel can but you can buy that anyplace, as for tires go with a size that is common amd eaay to find. If you loose a tire and need a replacement a 35 will be hard to find. 31 to 33 way easier.
GrandiOdyssey
Member
Sure will do, I will reach out via email. Perhaps we can grab dinner and chat!
Great thanks for the info! Yes I will do my best to keep weight down as much as possible and will assess fuel economy/ drivability once the camper arrives in mid to June. The full size trucks are fine for North America but much more difficult to drive in other parts of the world and potentially much more costly to ship if they do not fit in container.
Yes 31.6'' KM3s on TRD Pro wheels will be my setup that I will run from this summer. I will report back how that setup works as I still have changes before my big trip.
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GrandiOdyssey
Member
Update 5/13/19
I have finally had some time to resume work on Sasha, our 'Round the World Tacoma.
First up was + 2" stainless steel brake lines from Wheelers Offroad. Installation was straightforward however I ran into some challenges when attempting to bleed the brakes. Despite trying the standard brake bleeding procedure and a bleeder pump, I was unable to get a steady of brake fluid to come out of the bleeder valves. Afters hours of frustration I used my AAA tow for the year to bring the truck to my local Toyota dealer (who was surprise to see a car in service with 400 miles on it ?). Apparently on my '19 TRD 4x4 Off Road MT an OBD2 scanner with interface is needed to disengage the rear brake solenoid and ABS to follow the brakes to be bled. Obviously this is a huge issue me if I ever need to bleed the brakes on the side of the trail so I am actively looking for a manually override...let me know if anyone knows of one.
Next up was the Tuffy Security Cubby Cover. The cover mounts easily over the rear storage cover located behind the drive side rear seat and acts as a lockable safe to store important items. I love stealth design as well as the fit and finish.
The final big job was installing the Icon Stage 6 suspension. Unfortunately I didn't have the bushings needed to mount the OME Dakar heavy rear leaf springs (with +1 add-a-leaf) so I had to settle for bolting up the Icon 2.5in rear shocks with external reservoirs as well as the Icon 2.5 front shocks, tubular UCAs, and external reservoirs. The process was time consuming but relatively straightforward and I only ran into some snags removing and inserting the UCA mounting bolt. I am extremely impressed with the quality of the Icon components and they look like they should hold up well to the punishment of our around the world adventure. I also purchased some rebuild kits and nitrogen refill needle as I am considering having the shocks refreshed in Europe (our half way point).
Once our Swift Four Wheel Camper arrives in June I will purchase the BFGs (still trying to decide between KO2 and KM3s) and set the final ride height once I get a better idea of how the truck will sit under load.
Next upon the install:
-BAMF skid plates and rock sliders
-ARB diff breathers
-Expedition Essentials TPAM mount with RAM mounts for iPad and iPhone
-Custom storage solution in place of rear seats
I have finally had some time to resume work on Sasha, our 'Round the World Tacoma.
First up was + 2" stainless steel brake lines from Wheelers Offroad. Installation was straightforward however I ran into some challenges when attempting to bleed the brakes. Despite trying the standard brake bleeding procedure and a bleeder pump, I was unable to get a steady of brake fluid to come out of the bleeder valves. Afters hours of frustration I used my AAA tow for the year to bring the truck to my local Toyota dealer (who was surprise to see a car in service with 400 miles on it ?). Apparently on my '19 TRD 4x4 Off Road MT an OBD2 scanner with interface is needed to disengage the rear brake solenoid and ABS to follow the brakes to be bled. Obviously this is a huge issue me if I ever need to bleed the brakes on the side of the trail so I am actively looking for a manually override...let me know if anyone knows of one.
Next up was the Tuffy Security Cubby Cover. The cover mounts easily over the rear storage cover located behind the drive side rear seat and acts as a lockable safe to store important items. I love stealth design as well as the fit and finish.
The final big job was installing the Icon Stage 6 suspension. Unfortunately I didn't have the bushings needed to mount the OME Dakar heavy rear leaf springs (with +1 add-a-leaf) so I had to settle for bolting up the Icon 2.5in rear shocks with external reservoirs as well as the Icon 2.5 front shocks, tubular UCAs, and external reservoirs. The process was time consuming but relatively straightforward and I only ran into some snags removing and inserting the UCA mounting bolt. I am extremely impressed with the quality of the Icon components and they look like they should hold up well to the punishment of our around the world adventure. I also purchased some rebuild kits and nitrogen refill needle as I am considering having the shocks refreshed in Europe (our half way point).
Once our Swift Four Wheel Camper arrives in June I will purchase the BFGs (still trying to decide between KO2 and KM3s) and set the final ride height once I get a better idea of how the truck will sit under load.
Next upon the install:
-BAMF skid plates and rock sliders
-ARB diff breathers
-Expedition Essentials TPAM mount with RAM mounts for iPad and iPhone
-Custom storage solution in place of rear seats
Attachments
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nickw
Adventurer
Quoted for truth....it's the one things I've learned over the years as well.
GrandiOdyssey
Member
We have budgeted for a complete but not over the top build that will be both comfortable in capable in most situations we will encounter will going around the world along with enough runway for us to complete the journey and enjoy ourselves during that time.
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nickw
Adventurer
I wasn't insinuating anything, everybody's disposable income is different and relative to some of the big custom $XXX,XXX trucks yours is truly a 'budget' build!
shade
Well-known member
Looking good so far.
It looks like you're going to need to keep a close eye on weight. If you want full skid plate coverage and don't plan on bashing the truck too hard, 1/4" aluminum skids will get the job done and save quite a bit of weight over 3/16" steel. It's also much easier to work with aluminum skids when you need to remove them.
It looks like you're going to need to keep a close eye on weight. If you want full skid plate coverage and don't plan on bashing the truck too hard, 1/4" aluminum skids will get the job done and save quite a bit of weight over 3/16" steel. It's also much easier to work with aluminum skids when you need to remove them.
GrandiOdyssey
Member
I have decided to only run the BAMF main engine skid that made out of 0.250in thick steel. My thinking here is that the engine/oil pan hang low relative to the transfer case and transmission so I should have strong protection from any critical impacts while only adding about the same weight as full aluminum skid plates (~75lbs).
shade
Well-known member
That'll work. Tagging the oil pan on a rock would be a bad day.
It really comes down to what you plan to do. Many people run without any armor past whatever Toyota calls their tin splash shields. I have 1/4" full aluminum armor to keep from knocking a hole in the transmission or transfer case, and having protection over the fuel tank makes it more difficult for a moron to drain it. Judging from the dents & scrapes, I'm getting my money's worth.
Since you're already dealing with Jerry, you may want to take a look at his BAMF rear spring hangers & shackles. With the weight you'll carry and where you're going, that might be a good place for reinforcement. Your Dakar springs may need some work to fit the shackles, though.
GrandiOdyssey
Member
We will probably not do any rock crawling or "black diamond" wheeling seeing as our rig needs to make it around the world in one piece. Instead we are trying to balance weight with durability and cost as it is rather easy to go down the modification rabbit hole if you aren't careful.
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DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Are the BAMF skids really 1/4" steel? If so that's unnecessarily heavy. A 3/16" steel front skid is more than adequate for even hard technical trails and will save a little weight.
Αctually 1/8" steel would be sufficient for reasonable protection, although it would start to be an issue for multiple hits. I have a 3/16" Pelfreybilt and it's been pretty beat on for several years (not hardcore, but I don't baby my truck) but still straight enough and hasn't yielded in any important places.
You can save weight with aluminum and a 1/4" aluminum skid would be sufficient. But for your use I would stick with steel so that it can be repaired easily, just need scrap material and the most basic of tools and welders.
FWIW I don't run a transmission or t-case skid and still have the plastic fuel tank skid (TRD Offroad, but I like the reasoning of a steel one being more difficult to drill your tank and steal gasoline) and my cross member has a few scrapes but I haven't had any serious issues. My $0.02 is the front IFS skid and sliders get you 90% of the protection you need for most stuff. My damage has come from going up more difficult stuff than I have an business doing on 32" tires and 127" wheel base. Like attempting side-by-side lines in Moab.
You should also know that the front skid dropped my highway mileage enough to notice, about 1 to 2 MPG. I had already put on lift and the ARB bumper, which also had a mileage impact. But the skid plate I definitely saw correlation. It's not really the weight, 60 lbs or whatever is marginal. It seems to be the aerodynamics. So you might weigh protection against range for your trip. This is a major disadvantage IMO of using gasoline instead of diesel. Here in the U.S. range is manageable because we're littered with fuel stations and paved roads.
Αctually 1/8" steel would be sufficient for reasonable protection, although it would start to be an issue for multiple hits. I have a 3/16" Pelfreybilt and it's been pretty beat on for several years (not hardcore, but I don't baby my truck) but still straight enough and hasn't yielded in any important places.
You can save weight with aluminum and a 1/4" aluminum skid would be sufficient. But for your use I would stick with steel so that it can be repaired easily, just need scrap material and the most basic of tools and welders.
FWIW I don't run a transmission or t-case skid and still have the plastic fuel tank skid (TRD Offroad, but I like the reasoning of a steel one being more difficult to drill your tank and steal gasoline) and my cross member has a few scrapes but I haven't had any serious issues. My $0.02 is the front IFS skid and sliders get you 90% of the protection you need for most stuff. My damage has come from going up more difficult stuff than I have an business doing on 32" tires and 127" wheel base. Like attempting side-by-side lines in Moab.
You should also know that the front skid dropped my highway mileage enough to notice, about 1 to 2 MPG. I had already put on lift and the ARB bumper, which also had a mileage impact. But the skid plate I definitely saw correlation. It's not really the weight, 60 lbs or whatever is marginal. It seems to be the aerodynamics. So you might weigh protection against range for your trip. This is a major disadvantage IMO of using gasoline instead of diesel. Here in the U.S. range is manageable because we're littered with fuel stations and paved roads.
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