2004 Sequoia (Project Baby Panda) - Adventure and Build Page

busmup808

Member
These are dual use. I been running AMG deep cycles in my two other Toyota’s. The runner has had one for 7-8 years now. The tundra is going on 3-4 years.

The tundra has solar that keeps it topped off when not in use. The sequoia will get the same treatment.


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Any write up u have on the solar? Brand, size panel, mppt controller, size wires, etc


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SC T100

Adventurer
These are dual use. I been running AMG deep cycles in my two other Toyota’s. The runner has had one for 7-8 years now. The tundra is going on 3-4 years.

The tundra has solar that keeps it topped off when not in use. The sequoia will get the same treatment.


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Gotcha...good to know for my future plans!
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
Any write up u have on the solar? Brand, size panel, mppt controller, size wires, etc


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The tundra has a renogy 100 watt kit with their 30amp charge controller complete with wiring kit. Just wires it straight to the battery. Nothing else is needed.

The Sequoia will be getting a similar treatment with a 100 watt panel as well just a compact version of it so I have more roof space. Again will be wired directly to the battery from charge controller


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toyotech

Expedition Leader
What are you planning to use for your battery? I noticed on your Tundra thread it appeared that you had a DieHard Platinum but with Sears acting wonky was curious what this build would have.

Sorry I must have missed you comment. I’m using a Duracell group 31 AMG. Will probably be my go to battery for the tundra when the Die Hard goes.


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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Installed a set of vent visors. Tape on ones. Prefer them over clip on as they don’t mess with the window channel and seal.


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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Simple update. Scored a set of husky floor mats for like half off on amazon under the used-like new. Was probably a return as both sets came in brand new. Box was just beat up.

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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Started my solar set up will run wires once I get all my 12v accessories where I want them so I only have to do the wiring once and keep it clean.
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toyotech

Expedition Leader
Can't believe I haven't seen this thread.. Interested to see where this one goes.

It’s slowly going. Trying to keep this one as clean as possible. Once built. I’ll be redoing the tundra to match. A lot of the stuff on the tundra was rushed.


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I have to ask why you decided to keep using the Super Long Life (pink) vs Long Life (red). As a previous tech for Toyota, I've seen the damage done by the OAC formulation vs the old ethylene glycol. I can't tell you how many water pump internal seals I've seen prematurely leaking or radiator necks that broke off in my hand trying to get the top hose disconnected during routine service. On my wife's 2015 Corolla, first thing I did After the warranty was over was replace the pink with red. I just didn't trust the Super Long Life from what I've seen over the years since Toyota switched.
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
I have to ask why you decided to keep using the Super Long Life (pink) vs Long Life (red). As a previous tech for Toyota, I've seen the damage done by the OAC formulation vs the old ethylene glycol. I can't tell you how many water pump internal seals I've seen prematurely leaking or radiator necks that broke off in my hand trying to get the top hose disconnected during routine service. On my wife's 2015 Corolla, first thing I did After the warranty was over was replace the pink with red. I just didn't trust the Super Long Life from what I've seen over the years since Toyota switched.

Might be a location thing but I used pink in a lot of vehicle. My family alone combined is around 10 or more Toyota’s. All running pink coolant.

Water pumps on the 4.7 seems to go around 90k. After that Replacement on pink and another 90k later. Water pump has no leaks but I replace them anyways.


Now if you are talking about 4 cylinder Toyota’s. Mainly the newer stuff. I have seen those water pumps go around 30-90k.

Can’t say I have broken any radiator necks. They do fail around the plastic and metal where it’s crimped together anywhere between 100-200k.

Highly doubt it’s the coolant but that’s based on my experience as I was a Toyota tech for a good 10 years before I got out. I still do side jobs and pink coolant is still what I use no matter how old the vehicle is. The premix is better as I don’t have to buy distill water for the red. I could use regular water but imo distill is probably what will allow the red to last longer. When I was a dealer tech we use used regular water with red when we get red coolant.

My 88 runner is on pink coolant for 10 plus years now. Had one radiator replaced but it does have 230k on the original 3.0 never opened. Family owned since new.


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smokeysevin

Observer
Might be a location thing but I used pink in a lot of vehicle. My family alone combined is around 10 or more Toyota’s. All running pink coolant.

Water pumps on the 4.7 seems to go around 90k. After that Replacement on pink and another 90k later. Water pump has no leaks but I replace them anyways.


Now if you are talking about 4 cylinder Toyota’s. Mainly the newer stuff. I have seen those water pumps go around 30-90k.

Can’t say I have broken any radiator necks. They do fail around the plastic and metal where it’s crimped together anywhere between 100-200k.

Highly doubt it’s the coolant but that’s based on my experience as I was a Toyota tech for a good 10 years before I got out. I still do side jobs and pink coolant is still what I use no matter how old the vehicle is. The premix is better as I don’t have to buy distill water for the red. I could use regular water but imo distill is probably what will allow the red to last longer. When I was a dealer tech we use used regular water with red when we get red coolant.

My 88 runner is on pink coolant for 10 plus years now. Had one radiator replaced but it does have 230k on the original 3.0 never opened. Family owned since new.


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Just throwing my truck in for reference,

I am on 275k miles, timing belt number 2 and water pump number 2, radiator was replaced at 110k when the dealership popped it on accident and just started showing leaks near the top where the metal and plastic meet (165k miles on current rad). I have never seen any leaks on the water pump or the bridge area with pink coolant.

Timing belt and water pump 3 will probably go in in the next few months since I have noticed an oil leak from behind the cam covers. I will also be throwing a new radiator in at that point since I want to take a few longer trips this summer and would rather not worry about it. I may switch to a cbr or mishimoto just to get away from the plastic caps.

Sean
 

toyotech

Expedition Leader
Just throwing my truck in for reference,

I am on 275k miles, timing belt number 2 and water pump number 2, radiator was replaced at 110k when the dealership popped it on accident and just started showing leaks near the top where the metal and plastic meet (165k miles on current rad). I have never seen any leaks on the water pump or the bridge area with pink coolant.

Timing belt and water pump 3 will probably go in in the next few months since I have noticed an oil leak from behind the cam covers. I will also be throwing a new radiator in at that point since I want to take a few longer trips this summer and would rather not worry about it. I may switch to a cbr or mishimoto just to get away from the plastic caps.

Sean

Make sure it’s not the valve covers leaking. It’s not common for the cam seals to leak imo. My dad has 440k on his 4.7 and the cam seals are still dry.


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