24" Hightop Express Rear Build-out

Len.Barron

Observer
I've got about 1200miles on my Duramax/4x4 conversion and I'm satisfied I've got the bugs worked out, details for all of that are on the DieselPlace site, link in my signature. I'm going to start the rear build out now. I'll probably do this in two phases.
First Phase:
  1. Buffet/booth seating on both sides that converts to a standard queen size bed.
  2. Small austere kitchen cabinet will have a small sink, connection for exterior water supply, maybe a foot pump for dry camping.
  3. Electric cooler to be housed in the lower half of the kitchen cabinet,looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG4Q1YJ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A383G1P012K88F&psc=1
  4. Porta-potti, at 52yrs old I now have the bladder the size of a 4yr old girl and I don't want to go outside every night to sprinkle the flowers.. looking at something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LCTKQKB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2LM6ZPY06LT1N&psc=1
  5. Inverter installation (I already have a house battery system)
  6. Some other small electrical/lighting changes.
I mocked up the three major pieces of structure in 1x2 firring strips, I'll have 22" of free walk space (when tables aren't installed) between the two bed/buffet structures. I'm going to use the mock ups to get a good material list together and make these from 1" x .074" wall steel tube, I'll insert the openings with a nice (TBD) wood panel to give some nice look. This will al be modular bolt in structures, I'll use a combination of tying them to the etrack on the floor and to some yet to be fabbed tabs on the wall stiffeners.
I'm interested in all input to keep from making mistakes.
 

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710m

Observer
You've van build on Dieselplace looks amazing, I can't wait to see what kind of fab work you'll bring to this part of your build. I don't see any issues with your layout except that headroom is kind awkward with the dinette like that. But there isn't anything you can really do about that, except make the bench not too high. I just subscribed to your thread.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
I don't see any issues with your layout except that headroom is kind awkward with the dinette like that. But there isn't anything you can really do about that, except make the bench not too high. I just subscribed to your thread.
Thanks for the kind words; you are correct the headroom issue is something I noticed, I'm going to pull those side panels off and see if there's any "easy to get" clearance, I doubt the hardtop installer went out of his way to get rid of any excess so I'm hopeful I can pick some up, but, if not, I'll just live with it.
 

RVflyfish

Fishing is life. The rest is details.
Reading this on my iPhone Len. Love the way you've laid things out, both design and mock-up. But I'm not seeing your DieselPlace link. Is it my phone?
 

Len.Barron

Observer
After reading on porta-pottys a bit more yesterday (not something I thought I'd ever say) I went with the Thetford 345 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CHNB6TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for a larger seat and deeper bowl (no I'm not bragging..) both it and the cooler should be here by Friday, I'll pick up the square tube tomorrow (had to go with .083 wall, that's all they have in stock now) and get a start on some of this over the weekend.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
A couple things I'd like recommendations are:
  1. a good 30amp shore power receptacle set up, (I have a 30amp shore power extension cord from the motorhome)
  2. ideas for portable air conditioning (my girlfriend isn't as heat tolerant as I am) when we have access to power
  3. awning reviews, I'm leaning towards the Fiama F45.
I have a 2000w Ampeak inverter left over from a previous pop up camper I had, I'll probably repurpose it..
 

RVflyfish

Fishing is life. The rest is details.
It was my phone. Got through 28 pages last night and finished it up this morning. Amazing skills and craftsmanship. I'm blown away at what you did and how quickly you accomplished it all. A tip of the hat to you sir.
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
If I was going to install a shore power connector, I would use one of these.
https://smartplug.com/

For AC, I would go with a window shaker. There are some pretty efficient mini window units that are less than 200$. Make a insert for one of your front windows, and a set of straps (with padded hooks) to support the unit via the top of the door, drip rail, roof rack, etc.

Another option is the roll-around type units. Pick one with 2 ducts (single duct units don't do much). Then make a insert for a window and connect the ducts there.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
Hadn't seen the smart plug...looks like well made stuff!
I am leaning toward a portable/roll-around a/c unit, I can get some use out of it in the house the few times it's hot enough here in Oceanside to want one!
Stopped out at the metal supply and picked up 200ft of square tube(went with .065" wall, total for the 200ft is 160lbs) and filled up my welding cylinders....so I guess I've got plenty to do..
 

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luthj

Engineer In Residence
You may want a larger unit for using in the house. I would resist the urge to oversize. Depending on your insulation value anything in the 6-10k BTU range would be good. In full sun in tropical conditions, a 10k unit would be better. Too large won't dehumidify as well, and depending on control scheme, may cycle often.

It is really hard to beat the square tubing for low weight and ease of fabrication. What are you going to skin them with? What attachment method? I did a few rough calcs, and some aluminum angle bonded to 3/8 plywood with quality adhesive is strong enough for most floor mounted cabinetry. And it weighs something like 1/4 of the commercial MDF RV garbage.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
I was looking at maybe an 8k unit as those appear to be the most available, 6k would be fine if available, I haven't looked that hard yet and I'm not even 100% I'm going to do it at all. I've lived without a/c in this house for 25yrs...it would be just mostly be to take the edge off the heat in the bedroom at night so it's not a big deal if it's a little undersized. I'll see just how much room I have to carry it when everything is loaded, that may be the deciding factor.

I'm thinking of using 1/2" maple plywood, it would match the wood finish on my dash and be light in color and pretty durable. I'll actually be insetting it to the openings in the tube structure so I don't plan to do an edge detail...that is still up for debate though as I am a fan of the aluminum channel edge detail look. The galley cabinet will be HDPE on the top and middle shelf, sides and fronts will be the maple. I'm not locked in on any of this yet. After I'm done with the metal fab I'm going to take them out to get powdercoated so they'll have a nice finish.
 

Len.Barron

Observer
I'm considering moving the cooler from under the galley cabinet to in front of the rear side barn door. I've seen some pictures of building a little sub-floor in that area to create a larger flat surface but can't find any now. Does anyone have a picture of something like that?
 

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