2004 Tundra Adventure Cab - Build/Adventure Thread

[toyotech]

You are correct, the center shaft spline count is the same for the taco/tundra if they are oem, you just swap the outer on the hub side.

Sean

I have already taken boots of both and counted.

That manual Hun conversion looks so killer but seems like the kind of job that the time and $$ would sure add up to complete


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It's not a lot of money if you find them used. Additional cost would be two $50 koyo bearings. Plus shop to swap hub and install new bearing. Marlin crawler said he'll do mine for $90

Yeah there are definite pros and cons to it. I had the full setup to swap to manual hubs. Ended up selling it because the ADD hubs are stronger with their larger diameter and more splines. People swap to manual hubs and break CVs more frequently.

The BIG bonus to manual hubs is that if you break something, you can unlock the hub and fix it later. With the ADD axles, if you break a ring/pinion, you have to pull the diff, gut it, and reinstall it. Can't just pull your axles and drive home because they hold the hub together.

Tacoma guys that go manual hub break cv? Heck they break cv with add. Some guys just suck at wheeling. If your wheels are locked. You don't stomp on it. Also front lockers don't help. No locker here so I'll be good. Thinking of doing a taco box next year if money allows.


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[seanpistol]

I agree with you that it's a lot about the driver. But yeah manual hubs with big tires end up in a lot of CV changing.

 

[toyotech]

I agree with you that it's a lot about the driver. But yeah manual hubs with big tires end up in a lot of CV changing.

Doesn't make sense since the first gen SA all use manual hubs with same outer spine count. I know way more guys with this set up with 35-37 locked front never break the outer spine. The cv part breaks but the argument is the weak link is outer spine count is less and smaller.


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[toyotech]

I agree with you that it's a lot about the driver. But yeah manual hubs with big tires end up in a lot of CV changing.

Honestly i want to see some links of the so call weak link breaking ? Because my inner is tundra which is ball bearing cv vs what taco and runner uses which is tri pod. Weak leak to them. Shaft is same. Only difference is outer spine and size difference. I haven't heard of anyone snapping outers at the hub with manual hubs.

Oh I seen a lot of IFS wheelers and I'm one of them in my 88runner with manual hubs. Those that break them have Always been too much skinny pedal and it's at the CV and never at the outer stub on both ADD and Manual hub

Never broke my original cv in my 88 runner and haven't broke the cheap aftermarket t100 axles I have in there now since I gone long travel. No lockers in front and no skinny pedal so chances of breaking is slim.


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[seanpistol]

I'm on my phone so it's not super convenient to search, but TacomaWorld and TTORA have plenty of info on it. Here's some links I quickly found-

http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/199727-manual-hub-conversion-question.html

http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/93511-add-manual-hub-conversion.html

I agree with you that the driver has a lot to do with stuff breaking... I've seen you drive and I think you won't have any problem. The inner joint is stronger on the Tundra axle, there is plenty of info on that as well, but the manual outer is what people usually end up breaking. Not necessarily a bad thing depending on how you look at it.

 

[tyv12]

I think front locker break stuff I know I only use mine very tentatively after the saw how small stuff is in the 7.5" 3rd member


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[toyotech]

I'm on my phone so it's not super convenient to search, but TacomaWorld and TTORA have plenty of info on it. Here's some links I quickly found-

http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/199727-manual-hub-conversion-question.html

http://www.ttora.com/forum/2-early-tacoma-tech/93511-add-manual-hub-conversion.html

I agree with you that the driver has a lot to do with stuff breaking... I've seen you drive and I think you won't have any problem. The inner joint is stronger on the Tundra axle, there is plenty of info on that as well, but the manual outer is what people usually end up breaking. Not necessarily a bad thing depending on how you look at it.

Did a quick skim of the links. Found one post interesting and also what I mainly see. The shaft isn't the weak link. The CV is what fails first. The outer cv on both add and manual hub are ball bearing so it's fair game between the two. I'm not seeing any issues or losses here when I go manual hub. Inner and out will still be ball bearing and only the out shaft size is slightly smaller but I don't see this failing before the CV.

Not a bad thing but I can't just swing by a parts store for a replacement shaft lol. Guess we both in the same boat. CVJ will build be what I need for around $300 a cv axle.


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[toyotech]

I think front locker break stuff I know I only use mine very tentatively after the saw how small stuff is in the 7.5" 3rd member


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Yeah I seen it too. Pretty small but I don't see it being weaker than the CV


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[SportsmanJake]

Any updates?

 

[toyotech]

Been busy but I got the regeared 4.88 and harrop elocker popped back in. Changed the rear brake line with a marlin crawler 26 inch brake line.

Marlin Crawler also did the hub swap for me. Was cheaper to pay to get done than to do it myself lol. They also blasted them and repainted it. Looks so nice now.

Still waiting on cv axles as they are doing the outer swap for me as well.

Changed the front diff add tube with a manual tube to ditch the add actuator. The add diff will only go into 4hi without seeing the front add. I got the wiring diagram from my buddy and quickly figured out how it worked. All I had to do was ground out the gray wire on the add harness. I plan on putting this on a switch as it will keep the 4wd lights flashing when you switch back to 2wd.

Finally I added an addition air tank to work with my puma compressor. Similar set up that is in my runner and I love it.

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[Kpack]

Wow, those hubs are beautiful. Wish mine looked that good. My backing plates are rusting away and the spindles are pretty rough.

I'm interested to see how the Harrop locker works out. Someday I want to add a locker and I think I'd prefer e-locker over air.

-Kevin

 

[toyotech]

Got everything bolted back up. The cv axles was the hold up but I got them today and slapped everything back together and got wheels back on. Filled rear diff as I still need to break in the gears. Bleed the brakes. Hope to get truck back outside the garage tomorrow and get some better shots.

I was extremely surprised to find the hub centric spacers work with the manual hubs. I couldn't do this on my 1st gen runner with manual hubs as the center hub on spacer would hit the bolts on the hubs. They look so flush. I'm so excited to finally drive it after 3 months or so.

Hope the 488 isn't too much for 35s.

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[Sal R.]

Hope the 488 isn't too much for 35s.

I think you'll be just right. 4.56s on 34s is dead nuts on, but once loaded up, I do wish I'd gone 4.88s.

Nice job on the hubs.

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

Id re-bend your cotter pin around your TRE nut. Looks pretty close to killing your CV boot. I normally put the pin in horizontally, and the wrap the two legs around the nut. Keeps it all nice and flush.

Like this -

 

[toyotech]

I think you'll be just right. 4.56s on 34s is dead nuts on, but once loaded up, I do wish I'd gone 4.88s.

Nice job on the hubs.

If not. There is always 37 lol

Id re-bend your cotter pin around your TRE nut. Looks pretty close to killing your CV boot. I normally put the pin in horizontally, and the wrap the two legs around the nut. Keeps it all nice and flush.

Like this -

I was gonna cut them shorter but I like how it wraps around the nut. Gonna redo it like this. Thanks



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