seanpistol's 01 Tundra

PHeller

Adventurer
I looked through but could not find the posts about the manual transfer case swap.

What was the reason you did it? Was it very difficult? Was it worth it in the end?

Interested in this as well. Seems like the Tundra's ADD actuators can be problematic, not to mention the lack of disconnect at the hubs means extra wear and tear on the front axles.

I think if/when I get a Tundra I'll investigate both of these options ie; manual t-case and manual hubs.

I like the solid feel and simplicity of my Manual 5spd Tacoma, with crank windows, unpowered locks, Manual T-Case and Manual hubs.
 

spazstic

Lives for the weekend
Looks sick Sean! I had been debating putting a Chaos LT kit on my truck but decided against. I really didn't want the extra 7" of track width. The truck is already a bit on the wide side. Would be nice to not rub anymore though, ha.

What are your plans for the rear? Are you cutting into the bed?
 

seanpistol

Explorer
First things first, I have a vibration that increases as speed increases and I need to track it down ASAP. Thinking out loud here, but I just made a lot of changes all at once, so here is what is new-


Upper heimed a-arms, uniballs
Lower a-arms, bushings, alignment cams
Coilovers
OEM tie rods
OEM lower ball joints
any and all hardware
front and rear diffs with 4.88s and ARBs
tires and wheels
front wheel bearings


I'm going rule my tires and wheels out. I drove about 100 miles on them before all the other changes and they were balanced great. They are balanced with 8 oz of beads and they obviously aren't going to fall out like a wheel weight could fall off.


Driveshafts should be good, they were good before the changes. In the past when I was trying to diagnose a ringing in the rear end, I rotated the driveshaft in 90 degree increments to see if I had hooked it up in a different position and put it out of balance. No position made any difference whatsoever at highway speed.


The vibration got slightly worse when I put it in 4hi at about 45 mph. I think it being worse in 4 wheel drive would indicate that it's definitely something in the front end.


The suspension feels smooth on the highway.


Wheel bearings? Could have been pressed in incorrectly, but I'd guess it would be hard to mess that up.


Wondering if my alignment is the culprit. It went straight to the alignment shop after I did all the work, was aligned, after the initial drive around the block they had to realign it because the coils had settled. I have driven the truck about 60 miles since, with the vibration at speed. I'd assume the coils have settled more.


Here are my alignment specs-


Camber -0.2
Caster +2.6 left and +3.6 right
Total toe +0.22


If any of you guys are familiar with "DJ", he designed the Hunter alignment machine and drives a first-gen Tundra. His recommended alignment specs for a first-gen Tundra are-


Camber +0.25
Caster +2.00
Total toe +0.08
 

seanpistol

Explorer
POR-15 everything. This was so long overdue.





Also, anti-seize everything. It's all over the lower arm here. And I had to rotate the coilover to keep the upper arm off the resi hose. Part of the multi-day fun of installing a kit that has no instructions.




Full droop before the limit straps-






Side view




Really thinking about glass fenders. I "pulled" the bedside about an inch and re-welded it when I cut the wheel well to fit the 35s the first time. The front is just so wide and the fenders are tighter.... it just looks off.





I changed my 1.25" rear spacers out for 2" spacers. New wheels are 4.75" backspace and old were 4.5", so tires poke out .5" further than before. This should allow me enough room (since others have done this before) to eventually put a shock outside the frame and through the bed.

 
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