The Dana 50 TTB and getting it under my E350 van.

thethePete

Explorer
I also forgot the second people hit the Internet their understanding of hyperbole disappears.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk
 

philos

Explorer
"If you're swapping TTB to an iBeam 2wd vehicle, almost everything should nearly bolt up."
Hyperbole, riiiight.


Show me where I've asked how to build radius arms or brackets, or where I've asked how to disassemble and reassemble the axle?
I've consistently been asking for specific details to this particular endeavor, and have been giving my thanks where I've felt it relevant. I've also been sharing whatever I find, even "basic" stuff. So sorry I've never machined a hole into a steering knuckle before and that it scares you so much even though I'm using a machine shop to do that bit.

I also never questioned Ramsey's method of cycling a coil sprung suspension, I know to remove the coil in order to get the full range of motion - I even said thanks!
So please, help out or get bent.
 

thethePete

Explorer
I was refering to the part where he was called an ************. Are you this dense in person, or does it just happen when you sit in front of a screen? Also, on an F-series, the 2 and 4wd trucks use the same brackets. I had no reason to assume they were different on the e-series, though it was never offered 4wd from the factory. I've done the swap before on F-series vehicles. I realize this is your thread, but you're not the only one in here asking questions or providing information, not everything is specifically directed at you.

You didn't question his method, but others did. Good luck, princess. I'm done here. You've clearly got it all figured out.
 

BajaSportsmobile

Baja Ironman
Instead of machining a spacer, why not machine a new tone ring and skip the stacked up tolerances? Or have one waterjet cut?

...or, do what Quigley does and move the tone ring closer to the drive flange of the hub where the OD is bigger than the ID of the tone ring... then position the VSS where you do not have to machine the spindle or knuckle. Someone earlier in the thread suggested something along these lines... can't remember who that ************ was.
 

philos

Explorer
:coffee: ^ Tried to PM you, your inbox is full.

I thought you were taking your professional assumptions that a truck and van have the same chassis and leaving along with the belief that an IFS axle offered with leafs will mostly bolt up to a 2wd coil sprung vehicle.
A dense princess indeed.




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philos

Explorer
...or, do what Quigley does and move the tone ring closer to the drive flange of the hub where the OD is bigger than the ID of the tone ring... then position the VSS where you do not have to machine the spindle or knuckle. Someone earlier in the thread suggested something along these lines... can't remember who that ************ was.

More clear than last time, I'll look into it. Thank you.


Sent via flux capacitor
 

thethePete

Explorer
I thought you were taking your professional assumptions that a truck and van have the same chassis and leaving along with the belief that an IFS axle offered with leafs will mostly bolt up to a 2wd coil sprung vehicle.
A dense princess indeed.

Sent via flux capacitor

Ad Homenim whatnow? I was speaking to a fellow professional, about things he explained to you but you were too thick to understand. Pull your head out of your rectum and maybe some of his advice will make it to your brain. I swear, you must just be doing this on purpose, no one can be this bad at reading comprehension.

I also forgot you were using leafsprung beams not coil sprung, but it's still not that dissimilar. The van was set up with ibeams and radus arms originally, and the TTB set up (in other configurations) used the exact same mounting points and geometry. Dial back your butthurt defensiveness a notch. Further, it doesn't negate my previous comments about your lack of understanding when it was basically spelled out for you. Suspension design is not easy or for the uninitiated. I'm not questioning your ability to draw information from those who actually know what they're doing so you can redneck engineer your way around problems like the ABS sensors. I'm questioning your ability to make a properly functioning and safely mounted suspension set up on a road driven vehicle when it was practically spelled out to you what needed to be done. And you're not the only one here asking questions, this is an info thread, not a build thread last I checked.

Finally, that post wasn't directed at you anyway, so take your own advice and go pound sand.
 

simple

Adventurer
Ad Homenim whatnow? I was speaking to a fellow professional, about things he explained to you but you were too thick to understand. Pull your head out of your rectum and maybe some of his advice will make it to your brain. I swear, you must just be doing this on purpose, no one can be this bad at reading comprehension.

I also forgot you were using leafsprung beams not coil sprung, but it's still not that dissimilar. The van was set up with ibeams and radus arms originally, and the TTB set up (in other configurations) used the exact same mounting points and geometry. Dial back your butthurt defensiveness a notch. Further, it doesn't negate my previous comments about your lack of understanding when it was basically spelled out for you. Suspension design is not easy or for the uninitiated. I'm not questioning your ability to draw information from those who actually know what they're doing so you can redneck engineer your way around problems like the ABS sensors. I'm questioning your ability to make a properly functioning and safely mounted suspension set up on a road driven vehicle when it was practically spelled out to you what needed to be done. And you're not the only one here asking questions, this is an info thread, not a build thread last I checked.

Finally, that post wasn't directed at you anyway, so take your own advice and go pound sand.

Please step back and take a breath. At this point your not contributing anything and arguing with OP in his thread after he asked you to leave him alone is a bit much and doesn't fit in with the culture of this forum.
 

philos

Explorer
Ad Homenim whatnow? I was speaking to a fellow professional, about things he explained to you but you were too thick to understand. Pull your head out of your rectum and maybe some of his advice will make it to your brain. I swear, you must just be doing this on purpose, no one can be this bad at reading comprehension.

I also forgot you were using leafsprung beams not coil sprung, but it's still not that dissimilar. The van was set up with ibeams and radus arms originally, and the TTB set up (in other configurations) used the exact same mounting points and geometry. Dial back your butthurt defensiveness a notch. Further, it doesn't negate my previous comments about your lack of understanding when it was basically spelled out for you. Suspension design is not easy or for the uninitiated. I'm not questioning your ability to draw information from those who actually know what they're doing so you can redneck engineer your way around problems like the ABS sensors. I'm questioning your ability to make a properly functioning and safely mounted suspension set up on a road driven vehicle when it was practically spelled out to you what needed to be done. And you're not the only one here asking questions, this is an info thread, not a build thread last I checked.

Finally, that post wasn't directed at you anyway, so take your own advice and go pound sand.

Ad hominem is a personal attack, and is a common tactic when one can't form an argument to defend their position/statement. Much like calling one dense or a princess after being called out for making poor assumptions about vehicle design. My reading comprehension is fine, maybe if you'd read the entire thread you'd have some comprehension in this context.

You've failed to contribute in any positive manner, now please really try this time and go away.


Sent via flux capacitor
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
... I would box up the first ~24" of the arm coming from the axle with some 3/16" plate, and then add a gusset (3/8" or so thick) along the upper tube that reaches to the top of the axle beam where the section of box tubing is...

IMG_20151104_074658504.jpg


Weldtec's arms^

There's one professional off-road company who apparently agrees with 4x4junkie and I.
 

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