Winch, now what? Best/most important winch accessories

[youngPreacher]

Now that I have a winch which I'll be installing next week, I'm trying to decide what to get next. I know I need a snatch block and tree saver strap, but I don't know what brand/rating or what else I should count as important. My jeep is right at 5000#

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[RedF]

Gloves, clevises, tree strap, snatch block, a length of chain, chock blocks.

Purchase from reputable manufacturers, with a rating at least the same as your winch, ideally double. If this stuff is going to fail, it will be when you need it most, under the highest load when it can do the most damage.

 

[youngPreacher]

When considering reputable manufacturers, I'm sure Warn and ARB are top tier, but where does Smitybilt, Superwinch, Rugged ridge, Hi-Lift, mile maker etc come in the line?


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[Ducky's Dad]

If you have steel cable, a cable damper should be at or near the top of your list.

 

[Airmapper]

If you have steel cable, a cable damper should be at or near the top of your list.

On that note, if you do have steel cable, synthetic line is a huge upgrade in usability and safety, bar a few special circumstances that don't typically apply to the infrequently used automotive recovery winch.

 

[LR Max]

But synthetic rope. Easier to handle and easier to pull off the drum.

3" x 6' tree saver and a few d rings. That gets you started.

Pulley blocks...meh. I've used mine twice and while it's nice, it isn't a staple in winching.

Gloves. Yes.

 

[JCTex]

A thimble ILO a hook lets you use a D shackle at the end of your line. IMO, much safer and stronger. Additional length of synthetic line for extra reach. 7/8" D shackles with 3/4" pins if your holes will accept that. A 48" HiLoft jack does lots of stuff, incl ooching your Jeep sideways. Headlight. One thing most forget is bridles. These are relatively short pieces of symthetic line ~12' with spliced eyes on each end to put D shacles thru. They're usable for lots of things, but mostly at bumpers. Why? It's very bad to pull hard from just one side. Can parralleogram the frame. Better to put a bridle end on both hooks or pull points and let the pulling line's D shackle go where it wants to. Most of time that will be close to center of bridle. Shovel and pick or bar to deal with high center causing objects. 2 carry bags. You only need to carry stuff up th hill to attachment that you need. Leave other heavy items in other bag at Jeep. Plastic E blanket or tarp to lay dpwn on for look-see. A snatch thingee. These are dynamic and not used for anything but trying to pull stuck vehicle with another. Traditional is a dynamic strap; but I think modern 1" pull symthetics are better. Gloves for helpers who brought none. Some sort of light above your winch to let you see exactly what's going on when you wind line in during the dark. It can be magnetic or screw on; but you're holding a flashlight won't work, umless you have 3 hands.

Jerry L

 

[I Leak Oil]

Keep it simple to start. Add to it as necessary based on your experiences.
Tree strap: Everyone is suggesting one but if there are no trees where you wheel then what's the point? You need some sort of Anchor. A tree strap is great....if you have trees. Otherwise you need some sort of land anchor.

Shackles: You should have at least one. You need one to connect your line to the anchor point. I carry 4 bow shackles. They all have their ratings forged into them. (lots of threads around about shackles)

Gloves, line damper: Yes.....You don't need an official line damper. Floor mat, jacket, anything the do the job.

Snatch block: Not always necessary. Sometimes it is. Very useful in doubling the pull but more useful at redirecting the pull.

This is about as basic as I'd suggest. I'm a fan of synthetic as well but you have a new winch with new cable. Keep the cable and use it until it needs to be replaced or you have convinced yourself of the benefits of synthetic. Don't switch just because... Cable is great to have with your learners permit!

Best tool you can have is knowledge and experience of how to use it all. Add to your gear as you need it. Your situations, experiences and vehicle will determine more of what you need than anything else. As for what brands.....Save up for the better stuff...It's worth it.

 

[youngPreacher]

Alright thx. Yeah this is the first winch I had, and the cable will be staying for now.
I have two 3/4:7/8 D-rings I live in FL, and will be wheeling either there, or GA and SC, so there's normally no shortage of trees.
So my initial thought was a tree saver, snatch block, some more D-shackles, gloves obviously(dad was a tow truck/flat bed guy), and some sort of line damper.
I think my only remaining question is since I have a 9500# winch, do I need a 20,000# snatch? And chain rating if I got a length of chain


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[youngPreacher]

Oh and maybe some traction pads/ladders/(whatever you call them)


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[AFBronco235]

When it comes to weight ratings, its always better to double up. Remember, that weight rating is at the TOP LIMIT of what your winch can do. Same goes for all other equipment. You don't want to come anywhere near that rating.

As far as the steel vs synthetic debate, its just a matter of personal preference. 5 or 6 shackles should be more than enough. You should have three different straps: 1. tree saver 2. snatch (aka kinetic) strap/rope 3. tow strap/rope/chain. The tow strap and snatch strap are two different tools. The basic difference is the snatch strap will stretch while the tow ropes/straps will not. Make sure you know which is which.

When it comes to chain, you don't need much. Probably not more than a 10' length. You should be very careful how you use it. DO NOT YANK on it. Pull nice and easy if you use it.

Line dampers can be all kinds of things. Basically it can be anything that can be lightly wrapped around the line with a weight so that if the line should break, it won't go whipping all over the place. I personally like to use the afore mentioned bridles by wrapping it one full time around the cable and weighting it down with a shackle.

I prefer to use a snatch block whenever time allows. It doubles the pulling power of the winch while halving the tension on the cables. You're basically doubling the cable used to pull so its MUCH safer. It does take longer, since the winch has to pull in twice as much cable, but when it comes to winching, slower is almost always better. And if you're that pressed for time, you should either A: grab the snatch strap, or B: evacuate and return at a time when you're not having to race the clock.

On the knowledge, look around and try to find a copy of FM-22. The army's old Field Manual on emergency vehicle repair/recovery. It has a whole section on winching, including how to make an anchor when no trees are available. Hard copies are rare, but you can purchase a digital copy in a PDF format and read through that, or print it out yourself.

 

[Happy Joe]

On a practical note;
If you find that you are winching yourself often; it may be time to upgrade the vehicle... You buy a winch for your friends and strangers.

Frame attached tow points front and back; let you easily use the snatch block or snatch strap, including the ability to easily tie onto a tree as an anchor.
Several clevises/shackles; give more options when rigging and or attaching snatch straps tow straps together to extend the reach.
A good snatch strap, should almost eliminate the need for a winch, if another vehicle is available (and is much quicker easier).
Gloves; esp. if the steel winch cable is worn. Those loose strands can cut badly any my not be found until after you are cut...Keep hands and fingers with or without gloves at least several feet from the fairlead.
A control that the person handling the line uses to run the winch from at least 3 feet away from the fairlead (NEVER allow one person to run the winch while another handles the line for safety reasons).
As mentioned a line damper can be almost anything that can be draped over the line (floor mats are common).
A snatch block as mentioned makes it easier to pull the bumpers and trailer hitches off the poorly set up (no tow point) vehicles that you are trying to aid, by doubling the pulling power, and enables angle pulls by rigging it to a tree using the tree strap& a shackle or the log chain.
A short length of very heavy chain with at least one grab hook (optional); can let you attach to tow pointless vehicles in ways that do not make the bumpers and trailer hitches likely victims...
A tree strap; to protect the trees.
A heavy log chain to drag logs to the campsite and to rig different/angle pulls.
I, personally, don't have a need for a tow rope or chain (the log chain could serve), personal preference, the snatch strap can serve and if the towee is inexperienced can reduce the shock loads...
An in cab switch to run the winch (hide it so busy fingers do not activate it); do not use if another is handling the line.

...a good place to stow all this jun... er... good stuff!

On a personal note;
I don't pull fence posts when camping/wheeling so the hi-lift has been mostly in the garage for the last 25 years (if you like them carry one)...a hydraulic bottle jack that will work on its side is lighter and easier to stow and can move the vehicle/objects sideways.
Not certain about traction ladders; in the last 30+ years, off road, I don't seem to ever have need them (given the apparent market some must find them handy though). Appropriate tires and moderate horsepower may have something to do with this as might light weight (makes floatation much easier to achieve in snow and powder sand).

Use what works for you!

Enjoy!

 

[Bigunit]

On a practical note;
If you find that you are winching yourself often; it may be time to upgrade the vehicle...

...or the driver!

 

[youngPreacher]

All kinds of good info 🏻 Here's another question: seeing I at the moment I have the winch/cradle/d-shackles, it seems immediate need is a tree saver, and maybe the snatch block. As far as getting stuck, it hasn't happened yet: the tires, lift, power(HEMI), and 4WD(true4x4) system oughta keep me out of that position I hope more often than not, so most this stuff is to help others, and give me some peace of mind if I end up wheeling solo.

The other glaring weakness my jeep has is being "Skidless": (Guess original owners didn't see a need to check that box)

In you guys opinion, would skids plates be more of a concern than more recovery equipment?


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[Happy Joe]

...or the driver!

Yep!

In terms of skid plates make sure your fuel tank is protected all others are vehicle/driver dependent.

Probably the easiest way to determine your needs is to look at the vehicle underside; what is scratched/scraped/dinged and is it important enough to protect?

Enjoy!