New R50 Pathfinder Part 2 with Pics. Donkey

PrecisionX

Observer
I haven't posted in a while, I used to have a 2004 SE that I sold in 2013 but now I'm back in the R50 game with a gem of a 2001 that I found.

2001 SE with 124,000 miles. I bought it off the original owner who was an F16 Pilot stationed in San Antonio. The vehicle was in Texas and South Carolina since 2011 and now in MA.

I am well aware of the salt state recall and checked this one out thoroughly. Apparently there are 3 stages of the issue, 1 where they inspect and undercoat, 2 is when they inspect and will reinforce and fiberglass kit the area and 3 is when they full blown buy it back. This one is super clean but did have a fiber glass kit done on the left side and undercoat on both. I visually inspected the areas and the strut towers look super clean. I've included pics below. I'm super excited about this and plan to modify.

Any mod suggestions would be great. I'm going to need new tires but have not decided what size to go with based on of I get an Old Man Emu lift kit. I'd hate to buy tires only to lift it later and they are too small or the other way around. Here she is.



















I just picked him up today. My little Donkey. Here's the window sicker and basic maintenance record sheet. I noticed I had the limited slip differential option, not sure if that's rare or a big deal.









 
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stioc

Expedition Leader
Welcome back! Biggest tire size without rubbing on stock wheels is 245/75/16 and IMHO a great balanced choice for the truck overall unless you're planning to do difficult trails etc.
 

PrecisionX

Observer
Welcome back! Biggest tire size without rubbing on stock wheels is 245/75/16 and IMHO a great balanced choice for the truck overall unless you're planning to do difficult trails etc.

I was thinking about getting an OME lift kit, not body but suspension but I don't know what I should go with and if I did the 1.75 lift or the 3.5 lift what tire size would be best. I'm going for this minus the brush guard

 

stioc

Expedition Leader
Yeah those are 265/75/16s with 1.25" wheel spacers all around and he has a 2" suspension lift. OME HD front/OME MD rear (1.75" lift) drives better than the AC 2" lift and will allow you to run 265/75/16s just the same but I'd do some research on NPORA, there's a sticky at the top there all about the tires sizes vs. suspension lifts.
 

PrecisionX

Observer
The OME options confuse me, do I want struts or do I not want struts? If I went with the $5xx.00 no strut option would I just use what's on there now or would I need to get Bilsteins or something? I also don't know who would install the lift or if it's a cheap install a shop can do. I'm afraid that if I run into a bad bolt with my Pathfinder all torn apart I'll end up screwed doing it by myself. I don't really know what goes into the install of an OME lift.
 

XPLORx4

Adventurer
Whether you install an OME lift, an AC lift, or any other suspension modification that does not involve the use of incompressible spacers, the process is the same:

Struts up front, shocks in rear. New coil springs at all 4 corners.

Labor to replace the front coil springs is pretty much identical to replacing the front struts with any brand, since the struts have to be removed from the vehicle, and the strut and spring have to be separated from each other. The only extra work is to remove the original spring from the strut compressor tool, and put the new spring into the tool so that the strut (whether it's replaced or re-used) can be mated with it.

With air tools and a wall-mounted strut compressor, both front struts can be removed and reinstalled in about 90 minutes with two people, or about 2.5 hours if working alone.

If you choose to have a shop do the front suspension, all you need to tell them is that you want new struts installed on the front, and you also want to replace the old, worn-out original coil springs with new ones, and that you have all the parts. Don't tell them you're installing a suspension lift.

Labor to replace the rear springs and shocks is the same, no matter which brand of spring or shock you get: jack up the rear, place frame on jack stands, place jack lightly under axle. Remove the rear sway bar brackets on the axle, and let the swaybar dangle. Remove the rear shocks from the axle. (Also remove shocks from the body if replacing the shocks.) Using floor jack, let rear axle drop far enough for springs to fall out. Watch out not to overstretch rear brake line. Loosen brake line manifold from axle housing if necessary. Replace springs with different ones. Right-side spring may be harder to install than left side. Place floor jack under left side of axle and jack it up to articulate the axle to increase gap between the right side spring seats. Reassemble everything you previously took apart.

Replacing rear springs and shocks can be done in about an hour by two people, or about 90 minutes if working alone.

If you choose to have a shop do the rear suspension, just tell them you need new shocks, and you want to replace the original worn-out coil springs with new ones, and that you have all the parts. Don't tell them you're installing a suspension lift.
 

PrecisionX

Observer
Excellent. Thanks! Obviously if I decide to get an OME lift I will want bigger tires but can't get 265/75/16 to fit without the lift. Is that OME lift with stock sized tires going to be a mess to drive until I get new tires?
 

XPLORx4

Adventurer
If you install a lift and continue to use stock tires, it won't cause any problems at all. Your wheel wells will appear to be more empty, that's all, until you get larger tires.

The main reason why people go with a higher lift when fitting 265/75R16's has to do with avoiding rubbing on the front inner wheel wells and the front mud flaps.

Another thing that influences fitment of 265's is the wheel offset itself. I think the stock wheels are 16x7 and have an offset that causes 265's to rub against the spring pan of the strut (since 265/75R16 are tall). Some people get around this by installing wheel spacers between the hub and wheel, and other people just replace the wheels with those that have a more suitable offset.
 

PrecisionX

Observer
If you install a lift and continue to use stock tires, it won't cause any problems at all. Your wheel wells will appear to be more empty, that's all, until you get larger tires.

The main reason why people go with a higher lift when fitting 265/75R16's has to do with avoiding rubbing on the front inner wheel wells and the front mud flaps.

Another thing that influences fitment of 265's is the wheel offset itself. I think the stock wheels are 16x7 and have an offset that causes 265's to rub against the spring pan of the strut (since 265/75R16 are tall). Some people get around this by installing wheel spacers between the hub and wheel, and other people just replace the wheels with those that have a more suitable offset.

So should I go with a different size for the OME 1.75? I want a plug and play tire set up without rubbing or issues.
 

XPLORx4

Adventurer
245/75R16's or 265/70R16's will probably work with the 1.75" OME lift. 255/70R16's will definitely work, but they might be on the small side.

The best thing to do would be to install the lift first, then visit your local tire shop and ask them if they'll test fit a tire for you before making a purchase commitment, so that you can check clearances.
 

PrecisionX

Observer
I can run 245/75/16 on stock height, I had them on my 04 that wasn't lifted. I'm wondering between saving money on the tires and not doing any actual crazy off reading if that would be a better bet than going 265/75. I'm in New England and while I'm not afraid to get it dirty I don't plan on doing lockers, bumpers, winches or anything serious. I was going to do tires, lift, racks and lights with some other small smart stuff like tow hooks, skid plates maybe and or a spare with lift jacks.
 

XPLORx4

Adventurer
Well, as has been mentioned earlier in this thread, you may need to install wheel spacers to fit 265/75R16's on the stock wheels. This is to provide clearance for the strut. With the OME lift, you might be able to trim some of the front mudflap to eliminate rubbing, and you can also use a heat gun to push in the front inner fender liners.

If you're planning your upgrades in phases, add the things that will make your rig most useful for you as you build it. For example, if you don't drive on rough terrain often, but frequently find that you lack storage space for gear while on road trips, then get a roof rack first. If you often drive on deserted roads at night, get lights.

Now, if your current tires are almost worn out and you need to replace them, then focus on that first. Definitely try to see if a tire shop is willing to test-fit 265's on your stock wheels, then go on from there.
 

PrecisionX

Observer
I've made a decision on tire size and model. I've also given him a name. Donkey. His new shoes will be a set of BFG All Terrain KO2 245/75/16.

 

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