The TARDIS - A Four Wheel Camper Build

dbolton

Observer
Yeah, I probably should have mentioned that above. I ended up getting the arctic pack ATC sells after being cold; to echo craig333 it is surprisingly effective and certainly a factor in my heater experience.

In the wake of getting the pack it highlighted how many other places in the camper could use insulation; I'm in the process of sealing and insulating the thing.

-Dan
 

SunMan

Adventurer
The heater that FWC installs is 12,000 btu. So I think it should be the Wave 6, maybe even the Wave 8?

I think the Wave 3 will get it done, A Wave 6 probably too much, a Wave 8 definintely too much.

While I haven't used my Wave 3 in anything extreme yet it has kept me very warm in the mid to upper 20's. Mine is mounted under the fridge near the rear door so the heat rises directly to the upper bunk.
 

18seeds

Explorer
I have used a wave 3 in a NorthStar Arrow above 10k a number of times. It helps a lot.

My friends use wave 3's in their pop ups and it def helps keep the furnace from cycleing all night long.

FYI: I sold my Northstar and have a wave3 sitting in my garage I am getting ready to list for sale.
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
I think the Wave 3 will get it done, A Wave 6 probably too much, a Wave 8 definintely too much.

While I haven't used my Wave 3 in anything extreme yet it has kept me very warm in the mid to upper 20's. Mine is mounted under the fridge near the rear door so the heat rises directly to the upper bunk.

That is good to know. Do you use the low setting at all when it is down to the 20's?

I read a review that said he felt the Wave 3 put out as much heat as his 12,000 btu forced air heater.

I would rather be a little warm and dry than a little cold and wet, so I am still leaning towards a 6. The 6 also has three heat setting instead of the two heat settings the 3 has. But if more people chime in saying the 3 has plenty of heat I might change my mind.
 

SunMan

Adventurer
Do you use the low setting at all when it is down to the 20's?

I honestly can't recall for certain. But I probably had it on low for the duration of the night after initial heating on high. I spent some cold & windy nights in Northern Baja this winter and never considered putting it on high.

I like the fact that the 6 has multiple settings but I just can't get over thinking the 3 will be plenty for a Finch. The 6 & 8 are for full size trailers and MoHo's. Also the compact size of the 3 will be to your advantage. The 6 & 8 are considerably larger devices.

Hopefully you will get some more input.
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
Stereo System

I will want a small stereo in the camper.

I looked over a bunch of different options, and in the end decided some small speakers to connect the ipod to would work best.

I went with these Sony speakers because I have a pair of similar speakers made by Sony that are about 12 years old, and they still work and sound good.

They will be mounted next to the little shelf located on both walls of the shell model.

Sony speakers from B&H



Edit: See post quoted below.

Sometimes I am just behind the current technology.

The little Sony speakers worked nicely, but I recently found bluetooth speakers that have a built in lithium battery that is charged via USB. Perfect! The Sony ran on AA batteries, and the cords between the two speakers and the ipod were annoying. So I ordered an Aliph Jawbone Big Jambox, welcome to the year 2010 Nathanael!
 
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Overland Hadley

on a journey
Roof Lifter Gas Springs

I will be ordering the FWC with roof rack tracks, and will be transferring over some of the Thule rack from the topper.

Ideally I will not have much on the rack. But at some point I might need to have a Thule box on top for winter gear. I also want to be able to carry a canoe or a couple of kayaks if needed.

After looking at Northern Explorer's Finch, I decided that some roof lifting springs might be a good idea. Especially when I carry a canoe and other gear up there.



All the following info came from a thread over on WTW, so thanks goes to those guys for figuring out the specific parts.

Suspa part # C16-15952 40lb

the horizontal distance between center of pivot to center is 22 3/4" for the suspa lifters, when the top is down, of course.

The horizontal distance between the brackets must be greater than or equal to the length of the compressed strut. Place the extended strut at the points you want to attach it. Mark both the bottom and top bracket points. Lower your roof and measure the horizontal distance between these points. If it is greater than the length of the compressed strut, then you are good.


Here are the links.

Suspa Gas Springs
Link

Mounting brackets
Link

Thread on WTW about "roof lifting helper shocks thingys"
Link
 
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NYCO

Adventurer
I like your setup and I go back and forth on whether I want this or a Flip Pac - one quick question though. I would like to do the dual swing outs with either camper style. With your swing out gates do you have to remove them to take the camper off? It looks like you have the swingouts bolted on for the mechanical jacks, so I assume that's how you lift it off. Is there enough room between the jacks and the camper when removing?
 

Overland Hadley

on a journey
I like your setup and I go back and forth on whether I want this or a Flip Pac - one quick question though. I would like to do the dual swing outs with either camper style. With your swing out gates do you have to remove them to take the camper off? It looks like you have the swingouts bolted on for the mechanical jacks, so I assume that's how you lift it off. Is there enough room between the jacks and the camper when removing?

Not sure that I follow. Are you referring to a swing out bumper?
 

dbolton

Observer
3 options that I've come up with to overcome this:

1. Have a place to lift the camper without the need for jacks (such as, with an overhead lift system in your garage).
2. Have the swingarms removable in order to remove the camper.
3. Fabricate steel plate extensions to be bolted between the jack brackets and jacks to clear the swingarms.

Ok, 4 options:

4. Make the swingarms so they hinge downward, rather than outward (like your removed tailgate). Then, you have the benefit of a workbench/step/deck off the back door of your camper.

Have I done any of these yet? No. But I am thinking...

-Dan
 

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