Expeditions West 2004 Tacoma [Archive] - Expedition Portal Forum

Scott Brady

06-27-2005, 02:16 PM

The Tacoma makes for a fantastic expedition platform, with good economy, excellent reliability and durability and high payload. I will detail the major modifications and then add to thread as new modifications come along.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/tacoma/DS_Front.JPG

Major Modifications:

Con-Ferr roof rack, Thule rails, Kayak rack
Demello Rock Sliders
Demello Custom Rear Swing-out Bumper
Mountain Bike bed rack
ARB Safari Snorkel
ARB Front Bumper
Warn M8000 winch
Lo-Tek Gauge Pod
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges
Custom 22 Gallon Auxiliary Fuel Tank
Custom Shovel and Axe mount
Engle 42L Fridge/ Freezer on custom mounts
Custom rear seat area platform with radio mount and 2 drawers
Yaesu FT-2800m 2m radio
40 Channel CB
Custom NATO can water cage with two, 20 liter cans
1400 watt inverter
10 port aux. fuse block
Grey wire modification
Full time power outlet modification
Much more on the garage floor, waiting to be installed...

Whats Next?:
4.88 axle gearing
ARB Front Locker
Roof Tent
Rack system for mounting roof tent and storing light gear.
Lighting
Brake upgrade
Rear storage system
etc...

http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/tacoma/SM_Tacoma_rear.jpg

Scott Brady

06-27-2005, 07:37 PM

I spent the weekend installing my new ARB bumper and M8000 winch. In addition, I painted the chrome grill a dark grey hammered finish.

More details soon, but here is a teaser...

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bumper/ARB_bumper/ARB_bumper_1.JPG

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bumper/ARB_bumper/ARB_bumper_3.JPG

Desertdude

07-17-2005, 05:53 PM

have you set a target install date on this, 4.88 axle gearing and ARB Front Locker ? Will you do the install yourself?

Scott Brady

07-26-2005, 05:30 AM

Well, I am going to schedule the gearing swap and ARB locker install tomorrow. BUT, I am still on the fence about ratio.

Of course, the practical decision is to just go with 4.88's, but if I did that, then I wouldnt be the Scotty you know and love :p

So I am (unless you guys can manage to talk me out of it in a few days) going to install 5.29 gears based upon this justification.

Positives to 5.29
1. Not a daily driver, so performance is the key motivator
2. Slow road speeds in Mexico
3. Weight of the vehicle
4. Time spent on mountain roads
5. Time spent off-road

Negatives to 5.20
1. Smaller pinion
2. Limits road speeds

I rarely drive faster than 75-80 mph, so here is how it works out...

5.29:1
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/axles/5.29.gif

4.88:1
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/axles/4.88.gif

Scott Brady

07-26-2005, 05:49 AM

I want to install a high quality aluminum tool box in the bed of the truck to house the ExtremeAir, small air tank, aux. battery and some storage.

I like this unit (in black of course, as I am chromophobic):
http://www.lundinternational.com/DAM_public/5920.jpg

Then, I will build a platform that will run the remaining length of the bed, at a height of 13" above the bed floor. Under the platform I will role two of these, side by side. These are the new Storm Case iM2720's available from Pangaea Expeditions (http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/)
External Size - 24.6" x 19.7" x 11.7"
http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/images/productimages/storm/im2720TH.jpg

I will also build in little cubby's that will sit to the side of the Storm Cases, and allow storing on additional gear that is needed for quick access.

I want to build the platform myself, and weld it out of 1/2" steel with an aluminum enclosure (weather sealed) with the entire assembly rhino lined, or equivalent.

The top of the platform can be used to store soft goods. There will be about a 12-14" space between the top of the platform and the bottom of the Eezi-awn roof tent.

Desertdude

07-26-2005, 02:45 PM

with the 5:29:1 you will have nice low gearing for the mnt's - but are you concerned with the 06 Alaska expedition?

I am still 75% on road with my Tacoma so I am hanging with the 4:88:1 to land me back to close to stock. Plus I am a speed demon on the highways :D

Great plans on your bed storage - I have the weatherguard box and think the construction of it is stellar. Welded corners - solid lock system - opens and locks from either side - theft and weather proof- pricey!

Note: I have found that the silver box color does keep the inside very cool during the hot summer months

Are you using steel tube for the tent mounts? I have just started my tent mount design and hope to have it mounted by next month.

Scott Brady

07-26-2005, 03:25 PM

with the 5:29:1 you will have nice low gearing for the mnt's - but are you concerned with the 06 Alaska expedition?

With the 5.29's I can cruise at 75-80 all day, with bursts to 85-90 if required. It seems that most of the people I drive with are also pretty loaded and havent changed grearing, so they drive slower too. Highway top speed is certainly a negative of the 5.29's though.

With the amount of highway driving you do, I think 4.88 will work great for you.

Note: I have found that the silver box color does keep the inside very cool during the hot summer months

Are you using steel tube for the tent mounts? I have just started my tent mount design and hope to have it mounted by next month.

Good point on the chrome box color, but I am hopeless on that front :rolleyes:

Yes, I intend to use 1-1.25" steel tubing as bows to mount the tent to. There will be 4 bows total. I will also run smaller load bars across to mount the kayak mounts to, use for lumber hauling, etc. :cool: I am going to work on some drawings soon, as the Eezi Awn should be here any day now.

BajaTaco

07-27-2005, 12:13 AM

It seems that most of the people I drive with are also pretty loaded and havent changed grearing, so they drive slower too.

Hmmm... I wonder who he could be referring to? :rolleyes: :)

Regarding the gears, I think either way you go, there will be times when you smile and times when you roll your eyes. It's that whole trade-off thing.

... the Eezi Awn should be here any day now.

(insert jumping up and down smiley here) Scott, you need to get some more smileys on this forum :D

Desertdude

07-27-2005, 01:17 AM

For my work trailer top I used 1/8" diamond plate in bright alum. I wish I did it in black because in the sun it is blinding...

So you think that you will need four bows? I am waiting to hear back from the tent disturber on mounting points - I figure I will need three. Unfortunately more weight to add. :eek:

How are you activating the arb? CO2 or the arb mini compressor?

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 01:42 AM

Chris,

Your wish is my command (line)...

:jump:

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 01:51 AM

How are you activating the arb? CO2 or the arb mini compressor?

I am using this:
http://www.extremeoutback.com/images/product/extremeaire-12-volt.jpg

I intend to use this to distribute the air:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/thisthat_images/manifold100_1.jpg

The compressor will run off of the aux, battery system. I will wire it to be on demand and monitor the system from an in the cab cyberdyne air pressure gauge.

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 01:58 AM

I have the truck scheduled for 5.29 gears and the front ARB installation on the 11 of August at 4Wheelers Supply in Phoenix.

Now, I need to get my :shakin: in gear, and install the compressor and ARB support systems (switches, solenoids, etc.).

The machine is starting to come together... :box:

goodtimes

07-27-2005, 03:03 AM

Scott, IMO, get the 4.88's. With the automatic transmission, you won't see much difference between the 4.88's and 5.29's (if you were running a manual trans., then you would definately feel the difference). You will see better fuel economy with the 4.88's, and that will outweigh any performance advantage you get from the 5.29's (again, IMO). Consider how many miles you log on your taco where you are actually in low range, compared to how many you see in high range. You will probably see 90% of the milage is in high, at considerable speeds (40mph+). Granted, you have as much range as I do with my dodge (maybe more....I don't recall how far you can get....I can get ~700 miles on one tank).

BTW, what's with the monkey gettin' jiggy? ( :shakin: )

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 03:32 AM

The monkey is just shakin his grove thing GT :p

We needed some new smilies...

For me, the 5.29's are all about highway performance. I have never had a gearing problem off-highway.

The thing that makes it all possible is the .705 overdrive, which is very high (low numerically). It still allows an 80 mph cruising speed.

With the serious weight of the truck and tall tires I want the road performance. Of course, I could be totally wrong. We will find out soon enough...

goodtimes

07-27-2005, 04:03 AM

There are 2 more monkeys that go with the one you have added...they all crack me up.

Any idea how much your truck weighs? I can't imagine it being THAT heavy (could be wrong though). You have 4.10's now, right? 5.29's is a huge jump.....and the key to fuel economy is keeping the engine RPM low.

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 04:23 AM

Fully loaded, the truck weighs nearly 5,500 lbs. coupled with the large tire diameter and itty bitty v6, it needs the gearing.

There is no question the 4.88 is a more practical solution, especially for a daily driver. But you know me well enough to know how many practical decisions I make :shakin:

OH! and I cannot wait until you starting expedition moding your Dodge. What a PERFECT machine for Mexico :luxhello:

BajaTaco

07-27-2005, 06:12 AM

Fully loaded, the truck weighs nearly 5,500 lbs.

:Wow1: Please tell me that's after you add the cargo/rack/toolbox/tent setup.

There is no question the 4.88 is a more practical solution, especially for a daily driver. But you know me well enough to know how many practical decisions I make :shakin:

Like I said in the email... it's that hard rocker in you... (insert the head banger smiley here). ROCK N' ROLL!! :xxrotflma GT, I already tried to talk him out of it... it's useless... in the words of John Lee Hooker

"One night I was layin' down,
I heard mama 'n papa talkin'
I heard papa tell mama, let that boy boogie-woogie,
it's in him, and it got to come out" :D

Thanks for the smiley's Scott!

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 06:23 AM

Yes, that is with the storage solutions weight and the roof tent, full fuel (40.5 gallons), 12 gallons of water, two occupants (I am not exactly in the "light weight category" :eatchicke ), and the bumper.

I have a feeling, that FULLY loaded, and ready for a two week trip will push me into the 5,800-6,000 lb range. It can easily add up with a kayak on the roof, spares, and all of the other yuppie crap I bring along.

I need to look at brakes next. (actually, I should probably do that now, with the gearing swap, hmmm) Any ideas on a good brake system upgrade?

My brakes faded like crazy during our bonzai desert runs in NVTR.

BajaTaco

07-27-2005, 06:34 AM

Yes, that is with the storage solutions weight and the roof tent, full fuel (40.5 gallons), 12 gallons of water, two occupants (I am not exactly in the "light weight category" :eatchicke ), and the bumper.

WHEW! I was scared there for a minute!

... It can easily add up with... all of the other yuppie crap I bring along.

:xxrotflma

I need to look at brakes next.

LOL! Oh man, I am probably not the guy to talk to about brakes. My comfort level with weak brakes is scary. In fact, I really need to get mine adjusted. Thanks for reminding me ;) Maybe check out this page...

http://www.gadgetonline.com/susp.htm#Brakes

goodtimes

07-27-2005, 01:57 PM

Scott, what would you like to know about brakes?

There are only a couple ways of increasing the stopping power of your braking system.

increase rotor/drum diameter

increase coefficient of friction between pad and rotor, with either increased line pressure, caliper/wheel cylinder piston diameter, or friction material selection.

Going to a cross drilled rotor will give you ~200* temp drop, and better performance in wet conditions, but little else. I would really urge you to look into different rotors and calipers. You need something with a better vane design to move more air through them, and some stiffer calipers to go with them.....look into the 4 and 6 piston bridged calipers (6 piston would probably be overkill, like the 5.29's :p ). You might consider a disk conversion for the rear, but be careful that you get something that will work with your ABS system. Larger diameter rotors work very well, but unless you go to 17 or 18" wheels, you will likely have trouble clearing the calipers.

There are a couple manufacturers that come to mind, I'll look around for some more application info when I get some free time. Right now, I am headed out the door for work (AKA: happy land......if I keep lying to myself, it'll come true, right?).

Scott Brady

07-27-2005, 02:12 PM

Thanks guys.

My limited research has led me to the following conclusion on brakes:

1. At a minumum, I want to upgrade to good quality sloted rotors and TRD brake pads.

2. My preference would be to go with a better caliper too, but I am having trouble finding one. looked at brembo, wilwood and a few others.

The 5.29's will help a bit with compression braking too :p

goodtimes

07-28-2005, 02:01 PM

Scott, still no time to look at all the MFR's for application info....I was hoping by now that Steve Ruiz would be producing more stuff for OE applications, but it appears that he is sticking to high end racing stuff. He was building some really great stuff (well, we were making the rotors, he was making the calipers....but it was all to his specs), and I heard rumor of him going after a wider market than he had....oh well.

Here is a link to the tech section of his site...lots of good info that can be applied to all braking systems....

http://www.stoptech.com/technical/.

You also might want to look at Bear, SSB, Brembo (although Brembo doesn't impress me that much...unless they have changed something in the past few years).....gotta run....

Scott Brady

07-28-2005, 06:31 PM

Well, I got a few things accomplished this morning.

The Truespeed speedo correction unit is on the way from Slee Off-road (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/), along with the air manifold and a hand throttle (for winching).

After inventoring all of these systems I need to integrate, I have my work cut out for me. The one thing I need to accomplish quickly is the installation of the air manifold and locker switch/wiring, as 4wheeler Supply will need those in place to test the locker after installation.

Lots to do :smilies27

BajaTaco

07-28-2005, 08:48 PM

Well, I got a few things accomplished this morning.

The Truespeed speedo correction unit is on the way from Slee Off-road (http://www.sleeoffroad.com/), along with the air manifold and a hand throttle (for winching).

Excellent!!

The one thing I need to accomplish quickly is the installation of the air manifold and locker switch/wiring, as 4wheeler Supply will need those in place to test the locker after installation.

FWIW, here is how I did mine...

(I was going to attach the file here since my website is on the fritz right now, but the limit is 19kb. So here is the link (http://www.bajataco.com/arblocker/LOCKER-SCHEMATIC1.gif) - if it doesn't work, just keep trying periodically. )

Scott Brady

07-29-2005, 12:48 AM

Cool, that will be very helpfull.

I am trying to decide if I want to use the factory locker switch or not... I really like the FZJ80 dial switches too though.

I will probably just go with the ARB switch at the end of the day. I like how they are big an very positive in activation.

Scott Brady

08-01-2005, 05:46 PM

The first piece of the storage solution is on the way. It is a lund Challenger unit, which is very low profile. It will house the ExtremeAir in the bottom, along with the auxiliary battery. The second layer will be for additional storage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/OutbackEquipped/Misc/P1010056.jpg

I am going to look for a tailgate lock next (or even a simple padlock to keep the swing-out from being opened. That will allow security for everything under the load floor.

BajaTaco

08-01-2005, 06:52 PM

Very cool Scott :cool:

How about air circulation/fresh air for the compressor? How air-tight is the box? Or are you only going to run it when parked/lid open?

Scott Brady

08-02-2005, 05:35 AM

I have been doing a little research on ventilation. There are some which have a plastic vent cover and a foam filter for water and dust.

The compressor was a multi-blade fan incorporated.

As I find a solution or two, I will post for comments... :elkgrin:

kevin

08-02-2005, 06:36 AM

BajaTaco

08-02-2005, 03:33 PM

have you considered re gearing the transfer case instead? This gives you much more strength in your pinions. You can regear both the high and low range, or just the low range. Go all out and install the new dual cases now available for the tacoma and achieve final drive ratios over 200:1.

That is a great consideration. However, unless something has changed that I am not aware of, there are no re-geared Tacoma t-cases available. the T-case for the Tacomas are chain-driven (not gear-driven) and as a result there is no clearance to re-gear them. Hence, the popularity of the dual-case method. Dual-cases would be really sweet, and are pretty tempting - but for expedition applications on the Tacoma, the cost + weight isn't really practical. They are much more suited to a lighter trail rig (preferably with solid axle conversion, no IFS).

BajaTaco

08-02-2005, 04:16 PM

Wow, hey Kevin - you got me interested in checking on Marlin to see if they by any chance came up with a replacement case for the Tacoma and they did. Well, sort of... it is simply an older 4-cyl. gear driven t-case that is mated to their adapter. So that option is available, but due to the cost of a complete replacement and also an adapter, the cost if significant. Looks like it would be somewhere between $900-$1,000 just for the parts.

Scott Brady

08-02-2005, 09:05 PM

You can re-gear the high range :smileeek:

I did not know that was possible with a centered ouput... Man, that would be sweet.

Off to investigate... :coffee:

Scott Brady

08-05-2005, 03:49 AM

Something wicked this way comes... :box:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/general_equipment/eezi-awn/eezi-awn_preview.JPG

More to follow soon... :p

Scott Brady

08-18-2005, 12:53 AM

The 5.29 gears and front ARB locker are being installed as I write this.

To accomodate the 18% effective change in gearing (taking into account tires and gearing) I also installed the TruSpeed speedometer correction unit. It was a pretty simple intallation (instructions are poor though), and it works great!

I will let everyone know how the truck drives/performs, and actual rpms on the highway

Oh, and I will also report on fuel mileage. My last tank yielded 14.2 mpg (adjusted)

BajaTaco

08-18-2005, 01:01 AM

Excellent news!

I will let everyone know how the truck drives/performs, and actual rpms on the highway

Oh, and I will also report on fuel mileage.

Enquiring minds want to know! :lurk:

Desertdude

08-18-2005, 02:41 AM

Nice!

I am also interested in the quality of work and if you would recommend them again...

The BN Guy

08-19-2005, 02:24 PM

Oh, and I will also report on fuel mileage. My last tank yielded 14.2 mpg (adjusted)

That's pretty good! With my 33's I reckon that the speedo's off about eight to ten percent off. With those margins I'm usually getting 14.1 to 14.3 when I'm lucky and the wife isn't driving! She's gotta lead foot!

Scott Brady

08-21-2005, 06:52 PM

That's pretty good!

That is highway mileage, not an average of city and highway. I am in the high 12's around town. I expect the gearing will help that, as the truck seems to be struggling much less now.

Scott Brady

09-07-2005, 04:27 AM

Well, I have just purchased all of the steel and aluminum necessary to build the tent platform.

Here is the basic concept:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/bed_design.gif

I have also purchased (nearly) everything to fabricate the water system, including:

Shower System: (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&classNum=298&subdeptNum=27&storeNum=11&productId=48537)
http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/14613_f.jpg

Rear faucet: (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/6354/10001/298/27/11) This will have a small switch wired to start the pump.
http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/03519_f.jpg

I am working on the SS water tank drawings, so that I can have it fabricated. I have decided on the hot water heater I want, but am waiting on some durability feedback from the manufacturer.

Indel Isotherm Water Heater: (http://www.indelmarineusa.com/)
http://www.indelmarineusa.com/grafik/basic.jpg
These units are designed for the marine market, and are first class. They will use the engine coolant from the 3.4L and/or a 750watt electric heating element to produce near continuous hot water. It also has a 4 gallon reserve.

Scott Brady

09-07-2005, 04:46 AM

The black boxes in the design graphic above are of the Stormcase iM2720 boxes.

Pangaea Expeditions supplied two of these units, in addition to an excellent camera case:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/stormcases.JPG

They will slide under the tent platform and contain clothing and bedding

goodtimes

09-07-2005, 07:56 AM

Desertdude

09-07-2005, 02:23 PM

Super deluxe! Have you peaked your weight budget yet?

You can now accept trail-side trades in exchange for shower rights :victory:

Scott Brady

09-07-2005, 02:37 PM

So your planning on mounting the tent offset to the drivers side? How far is this going to move your CG off of the centerline of the truck? Would it not make more sense to mount the tent offset to the passenger side, as your fuel tank is offset to the drivers side (the fuel tank is on the drivers side isn't it?)?

Just wondering (you know how us anal retentive guys get at midnight when we are rolling through the message boards...)

BTW, what happened to all the emoticons that used to be to the right of the "reply" field? They have been missing for a week or two.....

GT,

As always, you are the most observant of fellows... :D

When I did the drawing, I did not take those items into account, but after further review, there were several items that requires me to have the tent on the passenger side. The first is the shovel and axe mount. The tent will not fold over them (they sit above the bedrail slightly). Then, the second issue, and of biggest concern is the fuel and water, as you mention, which is both off-set to the drivers side. So, you are correct amigo, the tent will be on the drivers side, I just didnt want to redo my drawing :smilies27

On the smiley's, I don't know. I have them :wavey:

Scott Brady

09-07-2005, 02:44 PM

Super deluxe! Have you peaked your weight budget yet?

You can now accept trail-side trades in exchange for shower rights :victory:

I stopped counting... :o

Though I do have a goal for the driver to lose about 20 lbs. The passenger is pretty much perfect in that area, so no savings can be made on that side of the truck.

I am sure the truck will be at, or under GVW when dry, but the 30 gallons of water and 22.5 gallons of fuel will be an issue. I will need to be careful to only run them full if necessary.

The BN Guy

09-07-2005, 03:27 PM

Scott, just saw the gif's of the bed design you did. Looks good but question...is all that going to be removable or bolted down permanently?

Scott Brady

09-07-2005, 03:31 PM

It will be modular.

The tent can be removed, and leave the deck, the deck and tent can be removed together also. The water tank and hot water heater will be another module, with can be used or removed independent of the deck.

I start the fabrication this afternoon :D

goodtimes

09-07-2005, 03:49 PM

just checking....still no emoticons here.........

Have fun with the fabrication (the second best part of a vehicle build)....

Desertdude

09-07-2005, 05:06 PM

Though I do have a goal for the driver to lose about 20 lbs. The passenger is pretty much perfect in that area, so no savings can be made on that side of the truck.

Gee we have more that the truck color in common - I just checked and it is 35lbs on my driver side that needs to lighten up - I started that mod and will achieve half (or more) of that goal by the Baja trip :Wow1:

What type of water pump are you planning, where will it be in the tank? ?

-----------------------------
small note:
( I am on a 24K dial up and have trouble seeing the full gif - and most of your uploaded photos - could be my end?)

The BN Guy

09-07-2005, 08:25 PM

See, now I like that idea! My wife's concern was if I were to carry anything large like a piece of furniture. But if everything is removable...hmmmmm....oh honey!

Did you consider the ARB space cases? I kinda looked into them but couldn't find a price.

Scott Brady

09-09-2005, 05:28 AM

Here is an "in process" update:

This is the tent mounting frame. Welded and testing on the truck:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/IMG_0711.JPG

Here, I have added another cross support (for the aluminum sheets that will be affixed). It also show in a general fashion, how the tent will mount, and how everything lines up.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/IMG_0716.JPG

I am going to mount the frame to the truck unfinished (it will be finished with a spray-on liner) and without the aluminum plates. I want to do some testing, and proof of concept this weekend.

I will post more images soon!

brittan

09-09-2005, 06:22 AM

I am impressed with the improvments. I had an idea from two pages back. Have you considerded cutting holes in the bottom of the tool box. There are holes in the bottom of the bed near the front of the bed. I thought of mounting a box there too that housed my air source and hav it breath through the holes on the bottom of the bed. Just a thought.
Can't wait to see the roof top tent installed.

The BN Guy

09-09-2005, 04:11 PM

Looking good!

Just curious...what happened to the shovel holder on the fender?

Scott Brady

09-10-2005, 02:50 PM

Ah, the shovel holder/dent hider. It is going back on... I will need to fab a different mount though.

Scott Brady

09-10-2005, 03:02 PM

Well, after a few days of fabricating, welding and hardware sourcing, the tent is on! I must admit that this has probably been the most exciting (for me) modification I have performed in over 15 years of OHV. It is kind of the culmination of all of my aspirations for the vehicles. Sorry for getting sentimental.... and here she is:

This is the side profile shot, which shows the height of the tent in comparison to the cab. I am also going to install a set of gear loops on the tool box, which will allow lashing my two North Face expedition bags on top.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/IMG_0793.JPG

This shows from the drivers side, and how the bike rack will mount. It fits just perfect. This will also be the side with the rear faucet and shower system (which have all arrived by the way). I used SS allen head bolts throughout.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/IMG_0795.JPG

And this last view shows all of the storage underneath. Some of which will be used for the water tank and hot water heater, but there will still be a 28x~54 inch secure and weather proof area at the tailgate end.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/IMG_0796.JPG

I also popped the tent up last night, and it is incredibly solid. I cannot even begin to describe the quality of this unit.

So, I have lots left to do, including mounting the aluminum sheets, installing the shower, and sending the whole assembly off to get "rhino-lined". Then I will build the water storage and hot water system.

This is just TOO much fun...

The BN Guy

09-11-2005, 02:38 PM

That is very sharp! Quite inspiring if I don't go with the Soft topper.

bluerunner

09-13-2005, 04:28 AM

WOW! very inspiring indeed.

Looking good S :Wow1: cott!

BajaTaco

09-13-2005, 06:23 AM

This is just TOO much fun...

You can say that again!! :victory: It looks great Scott!

goodtimes

09-13-2005, 08:41 AM

ShottsCruisers

09-13-2005, 09:15 PM

Very cool amigo! The fabrication is the second best part of a vehicle build, particularly when you start playing with tube benders, welders, plazma cutters, etc. It is just cool to start with a pile of tube (or whatever), and end up with something completely functional. I curious though, why rhino line it instead of powder coating it? The Rhino lining is kind of soft and fades pretty quickly IMO. Of course, it does do a nice job of covering up welds you don't feel like grinding out....

BEGIN THREAD HIJACK:
Hey Brian....long time no see! (Though wheeling season's coming)
Hey, can you please email me a few more pics of our wet Chiva trip?
I'd like those of me in the squeeze and climbing 3 Feathers. Can ya do that for me buddy? jshotts@earthlink.net (I get new internet Thursday and my email will change but not sure to what?)
END THREAD HIJACK. :D

The BN Guy

09-13-2005, 10:14 PM

John, that's a sweet rig you have there. Man this forum has some really nice looking rigs.

Loved this one too! Reminds me of some pix of Oz rigs for sure.

http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/photos/31281294-S.jpg

goodtimes

09-13-2005, 11:57 PM

Hey John....I have some pics, and well, me being me, they are all friggin HUGE files...just like the last time when I had to e-mail them to you one at a time. I can burn them to a CD and bring them along on the powerline trip, it would be easier, and probably faster since it would take me about 3 weeks to e-mail them all.....

I don't know how this 'wheeling season will go. Right now I only have tuesday's off. I talked with my boss about this, and we are trying to reach a agreement that is mutually beneficial, and allows me some weekends off.....so we'll see. Hey, on that note, there is a area not too far from here that I want to explore sometime....eh.....check the north america section, I'll put info there instead of completely hijacking Scott's thread.....

Scott Brady

09-14-2005, 06:20 PM

Thanks for the kind feedback all! The reason for the rhino lining, is that I intend to leave the rack on the truck, and want to be able to haul things on the rack/ lash them down, etc. Regular house work stuff and raw steel, etc. Things that would tear up powder-coat pretty quickly.

The truck stays in the garage, so I am not too worried about fading.

This weekend, I am going to get the aluminum sheet (1/8") installed and the shower and rear faucet installed. Then, I will take it to the coaters next week.

I also received the marine 12v fuse block (thanks baja and ddude), so I will start the compressor and optima install in the tool box too. I also ordered some really nice five wire, 14 gauge wiring. It has all five wires bundled, and a heavy sheath around it. I will use that to run from the aux. battery to the cab (for the fridge, radios, interters, etc.). I will post more pictures soon (I am in CA for the week :( )

BajaTaco

09-14-2005, 07:03 PM

:jump: :lurk:

Excellent!

goodtimes

09-14-2005, 07:29 PM

Thanks for the kind feedback all! The reason for the rhino lining, is that I intend to leave the rack on the truck, and want to be able to haul things on the rack/ lash them down, etc. Regular house work stuff and raw steel, etc. Things that would tear up powder-coat pretty quickly.

I see, that is a good reason. I would encourage you to compare samples of Rhino and Line-X before deciding though. The Line-X is a harder material, and in my experience holds up better (more cut resistant). But, the trade off is that things tend to slide around on top of it more than Rhino.

It looks like the truck is coming together nicely. Can't wait to see it back in the dirt.

bluerunner

09-15-2005, 12:17 AM

Scott

I know the shower is going to be off the side of the driversside bed, but how is it going to tie in with the bed? I KNOW you will have picture soon, just curious.:coffee:

Scott Brady

09-15-2005, 12:22 AM

Good question...

It actually mounts flush on the tent rack, set into the aluminum sheeting. The shower has a 4' long hose to the shower head, which will allow running the shower head into the shower enclosure (yet to be designed).

I will post some pics this weekend :)

bluerunner

09-15-2005, 05:41 PM

Anxious to see more! :box:

bluerunner

09-26-2005, 02:05 AM

Scott, have you had a chance to hook the shower up yet? and i would like to see more pics of the bed and the progress if you got any!

thanks!

:eatchicke

Scott Brady

09-26-2005, 06:46 AM

Sorry, I did get a bit delayed with the canyoneering trek and work, but here is a teaser :p
http://www.expeditionswest.com/temp1/tent_deployed.JPG
photo credit: BajaTaco.com

I plan on finishing the deck this week, so pictures should be pouring in...

Jonathan Hanson

09-26-2005, 03:44 PM

Scott, that truck is looking fantasitc.

goodtimes

09-26-2005, 07:27 PM

Scott, the wheels will look better if you take a black magic marker and "color" the weights to match the wheels. It will wear off over time, so I used to keep a "sharpie" in the glove box back when I had the black steelie's.....The tent looks good!

Scott Brady

09-26-2005, 07:33 PM

Oh crap, I must eradicate the shiny wheel weights. How did I miss that (chomophobia setting in.... :smilies27 )

...running from office to garage with sharpie... :eek:

bluerunner

09-26-2005, 11:54 PM

haha, i just have them put weights on the inside... no problems and no weights on the outside.

:coffee:

goodtimes

09-27-2005, 07:51 AM

Oh crap, I must eradicate the shiny wheel weights. How did I miss that (chomophobia setting in.... :smilies27 )

...running from office to garage with sharpie... :eek:

LMAO......"chromophobia".....

Suty

09-29-2005, 11:39 PM

I have been very happy with my Extreme Air , I mounted it under the hood and plumbed it to a Tank in the Bed. I ended up using Braided Steel Hose from the Compressor to the Pressure Switch , about 4', heat from the Compressor kept making the normal hose pop off the Compressor head when the tank was approaching full (150psi). Take a look. Tu Compadres, Suty

bluerunner

09-30-2005, 12:24 AM

That looks really clean Suty!

Do you have a thread somewhere that we could see more? :D

Suty

09-30-2005, 12:27 AM

Blue Runner I will Post Some...Tu Compadre, Suty

Desertdude

09-30-2005, 01:52 AM

Scott - I saw that comment about the ARB - can you elborate?

Second question - on the deaver 10 pack leaf springs did you have to relocate your hangers?

Scott Brady

09-30-2005, 02:16 AM

Scott - I saw that comment about the ARB - can you elborate?

Second question - on the deaver 10 pack leaf springs did you have to relocate your hangers?

Pasquale,

Sorry, but I don't remember the ARB comment you are referring to (getting old... :smilies27 )

On the 10 leaf, I did not need to relocate my hangars, just extend the brake lines and mod the parking brake bracket...

BajaTaco

09-30-2005, 02:19 AM

On the 10 leaf, I did not need to relocate my hangars, just extend the brake lines and mod the parking brake bracket...

Don't forget to mention the pin relocation (for those with tall tires)

Desertdude

09-30-2005, 02:35 AM

Chris - Pin relocation?

Scott - my bad on the ARB comment- I even had my reading glasses on - just like to switch around letters in my head sometimes -
Please disregard :wavey:

Scott Brady

09-30-2005, 02:40 AM

Chris is refering to the center pin. All Deavers come with the center pin moved forward by .5", unless otherwise specified.

Yours are already that way. :)

Desertdude

09-30-2005, 02:46 AM

Thanks for clearing that up - I thought he was speaking of some other pin :) Those 10 leafs will help with the aux tank in the near future...

Chris is refering to the center pin. All Deavers come with the center pin moved forward by .5", unless otherwise specified.

Yours are already that way. :)

dieck

10-04-2005, 03:09 PM

BajaTaco

10-04-2005, 03:33 PM

Chris is refering to the center pin. All Deavers come with the center pin moved forward by .5", unless otherwise specified.

Yours are already that way. :)

Oh, ok. I was under the impression that you had special-ordered your springs with a specific pin relocation. Sorry 'bout that.

VikingVince

10-04-2005, 05:56 PM

Scott,

I haven't looked at this thread in some time...OH MY GOD...what you've done with your truck is just amazing...all the fabrication (tent support etc) and customization is really unique and really interesting to see. The water system is a great design...all this looks like the culmination of all your years in OHV...congrats...I trust we'll be seeing your truck in 4WD Toyota mag!!

Scott Brady

10-10-2005, 01:24 AM

Thanks so much Vince. It has been a lot of work. My goal is to have the truck at a 95% finished point by Baja. I am sure I will do more tinkering in the future, but I want the truck ready for just trips. No more heavy mods.

I just want to be able to leave it in a packed and ready state in the garage. Fridge plugged in, everything in its place, etc.

Desertdude

10-10-2005, 01:28 AM

I just want to be able to leave it in a packed and ready state in the garage. Fridge plugged in, everything in its place, etc.

Gee I have the same notion :victory:

...and Baja is for sure the goal point:)

Looking forward to seeing the water system at Fall forum?? :box:

Scott Brady

10-10-2005, 01:33 AM

OK, here is a rear deck update. This has proved to be a major undertaking as I though more about what I wanted to incorporate. It has also proved to be much more expensive. Mostly due to the cost of steel.

But, it is ready to go for the coating tomorrow :luxhello:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/portal_temp/rear_deck_connections.JPG

This shows the view you would have from the back of the truck. First is the rear faucet (it will have a switch to start the demand pump and a mechanical shut-off). Next is the electrical panel, with 120v All Weather Box (runs to the inverter), 12v outlet (runs to the aux. battery panel) and incoming 120v to charge the batteries (with a 6amp charger).

Further down you can see the shower cover and the water fill inlet.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/portal_temp/rear_deck_unfinished.JPG
This shows the shower cover open and the shower nozzle and hot and cold water knobs. There is about 6' of hose that can come out.

I have also bought the material to make a rear shower enclosure stand, but am starting to second guess, as there is a cool "easy" set-up unit that is probably a better choice.

Desertdude

10-10-2005, 03:19 AM

Very slick and clean!

thanks for posting :arabia:

The BN Guy

10-10-2005, 03:32 PM

Very nice! Maybe I missed it but what's it going to be coated with?

Scott Brady

10-10-2005, 04:15 PM

dieck

10-10-2005, 10:51 PM

It is going to be Rhino-lined (or similar), including the shower cover and fresh water inlet pieces. The lining will be heavy on the top and light on the underside. This will help protect everything, and make sure there are no rattles.

Knowing how you like things bullet proof. I would strongly recommend line-x over rhino lining. It is also marketed to the military under another name and is used to blast proof building. The whole pentagon was lined with it during the post 9-11 reconstruction. I think it is called paxcon or something.

http://www.paxcon.com/ Check out the bomb test photos... WOW!

I've got it on my truck (after much research) and I have to tell you that is impervious to abuse. Amazing stuff.

I regularly carried large cisco routers in my truck. I happened to go along with one of my peers in his truck the other day. The ribs onthe bottom of his bed were smashed flat from the same routers I carry every day....

Scott Brady

10-13-2005, 12:46 AM

The panel is off to Rhino Linings for coating.

I chose Rhino lining for its insulating and vibration dampening properties, which is a little different than the Line-X wear properties (line-X is very good stuff). I want the whole system to be very "tight" and have no rattles.

I have also ordered the water tank:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/poly-fresh-water-tank.jpg

It is a polypropylene unit and measures 34x18x12 and is 30 gallons. It has one large inlet and one vent at the top and two outlets at the bottom (one to feed the hot water heater, and the other to feed the cold lines).

I have also decided to keep the drinking water as a separate system, so I will be using these very slick bags by MSR (http://www.msrcorp.com/hydration/dromedary.asp).

http://www.msrcorp.com/hydration/images/dromedary_bags.jpg

They are about 2.5 gallons each, and I will carry two.

The water in the rear of the truck could always be used for drinking if required, but it will not preclude me from using local water sources for washing and bathing.

flyingwil

10-13-2005, 09:44 AM

lionsbreath

10-13-2005, 03:44 PM

Gray Wire mod????

Scott Brady

10-13-2005, 04:16 PM

Very nice set up you got going there, you have no clue the amount of jealousy I am feeling (better sleep with one eye open at the Nov gathering :hehe: ). To go back to your truck have you done any of the common "mods" such as the grey wire mod, Dif breather extension, and full time power outlet mods? If so, why or why not?

Plus with the amount of juice you got running with all your electrical how did you do your dual battery setup or do you have one in mind (other than the rolling solar pannels)?

Yes, I have done all of the above mods. I will eventually get to writing them up :)

For the auxiliary battery, I am running a blue top Optima in the tool box, in the bed. I am also using a Sure-power unit to control charging and battery isolation. I will try to post some pics on that soon too. :jumping:

mountainpete

10-13-2005, 05:00 PM

Great idea for using Dromedary bags for water. I've been using those for about 15 years now. I have one that holds about 6 litres that I have thrashed, banged and dropped and they have never leaked. The only downside is their lack of any insulation so water gets warm in there...

Scott Brady

10-13-2005, 05:19 PM

This goes in place of the rear only switch this weekend.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/axles/FZJ80_diff_switch.JPG

It is from an FZJ80. I have never seen this used before to control lockers in a Tacoma. It will allow me to control the factory rear electric locker and the front ARB locker in a clean, factory way...

Scott Brady

10-13-2005, 05:25 PM

And this switch goes in too, and will replace my current (and poorly placed) switch. It provides several benefits, including showing the fuel level in the tank and having an indicator light when the pump is running. It also fits nice and clean next to the 12v outlets behind the shifter.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/aux_tank/update/long_ranger_switch.JPG

Jonathan Hanson

10-15-2005, 01:58 AM

Where do you find this stuff? You are a master at factory-look modifications.

Scott Brady

10-15-2005, 07:05 AM

Well, I do research A LOT... but more importantly, I trust Toyota engineers more than myself, and I trust Australian engineers more than just about everyone else too.

I have found that nearly all of the AU overland equipment is designed to compliment and enhance a factory system, as opposed to just achieving the tallest lift, or the loudest exhaust.

I try to buy things in the following order:

Toyota OEM solution
Australian solution
South African solution

I would say the one exception is high performance parts, like desert focused suspensions for Toyota vehicles. There is a lot of talent in So Cal on that front, and my trucks ride and handling proves it.

I am really not that anal of a person, and have more of a business/marketing personality, but when it comes to vehicle modifications and fabrication I get really anal, and want it to be perfect and innovative. I want the absolute best solution, or I would prefer to leave it just the way Mr. Toyoda delivered it.

kcowyo

10-15-2005, 03:45 PM

....or I would prefer to leave it just the way Mr. Toyoda delivered it.

...nice!

Scott Brady

10-15-2005, 03:57 PM

...nice!

He's on the PS cap on your '85 too... But I am sure you knew that :D

Scott Brady

10-16-2005, 05:54 AM

FZJ80 Locker Switch, installed:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/FZJ80_diff_lock.JPG

Gauges and winch controller mounted:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/PS_gauges.JPG

The gauges, left to right: compressed air system PSI, exterior air temp, fridge temp.

Desertdude

10-16-2005, 07:12 AM

Great work Scott - you are making it easy for the rest of us :suning:

Life_in_4Lo

10-16-2005, 07:59 AM

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/aux_tank/update/long_ranger_switch.JPG

Where did you get this switch? I have a buddy this might be perfect for.

The BN Guy

10-16-2005, 02:35 PM

Those are great Scott! My dash is built quite similarly - might mount my winch controller there too. Running out of room on drivers side.

Scott Brady

10-16-2005, 10:33 PM

Where did you get this switch? I have a buddy this might be perfect for.

It is made by Long Ranger, out of Australia. Not very easy to source... sorry.

mountainpete

10-17-2005, 10:19 PM

Scott,

Question about your suspension...

Why did you choose to go with the standard Donahoe Coilovers instead of getting aftermarket upper A-arms and extended coilovers?

P.S... I'm STILL waiting for Donahoe to release the coilovers with weather plating. It looks like it's going to be January now. It's a long wait :coffee:

Pete

VikingVince

10-18-2005, 12:33 AM

Scott,

I think somewhere earlier in this thread you mentioned brake upgrade. On my '98 Taco (no TRD package), after the bigger tires and the weight of all the mods, I could REALLY notice the difference in slower braking response and significantly longer stopping distance...in fact, it sometimes freaked me out a bit in traffic when I'd have to stop quickly and the necessary response almost wasn't there...I was starting to think it wasn't real safe.

Last week I put in TRD front pads. PROBLEM SOLVED!! I'm really surprised...I didn't think they would make that much of a difference, but presto/chango!!...the TRD pads make the braking feel almost like original braking response (from what I remember anyway). The point is there's a significant improvement and I feel much more confident re braking/stopping. The local Toyota dealership said the TRD pads were probably 10-20% heavier-dutier (that's not a word, I know) than the stock pads. That doesn't seem like that much but it sure helped.

Scott Brady

10-18-2005, 02:13 AM

Thanks so much for the feedback Vince, that is very helpful.

before the Baja run, I am going to upgrade the pads and rotors.

Do they have the TRD pads for the rear too?

VikingVince

10-18-2005, 02:59 AM

Scott,

I don't know about TRD pads for the rear...I didn't ask...I should have (my rear brakes were okay, more or less )...I guess it stands to reason that if they are available for the rear, they would also enhance braking response.

Re my rear brakes...Toyota mechanic said the rear brake shoes were covered with a hard dirt glaze that could impede effectiveness (other than that they were okay)...I thought they were just trying to get me for another $170 so I declined replacing them...then he said it wouldn't really matter if I was going offroad again and doing the same thing...go figure... :rolleyes:

What's your opinion? you ever heard of that being a problem?

BajaTaco

10-18-2005, 04:18 AM

Scott, the new stuff looks fantastic :exclaim:

Vince, I have never heard of a hard dirt glaze. Maybe some dirt packed on the sides of the shoes, but not on the braking surface. Thanks for the tip on the TRD pads. I don't think they make the rear brake shoes.

Scott Brady

10-24-2005, 04:06 PM

Lots of work over the last few days:

The tent rack is finished with the Rhino Lining and looks good. All of the seams are sealed, and there are no rattles. I still need to trim around the accessory holes, but it is essentially done. After the tool box is mounted, then I can mount the rack and the tent.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1083.JPG

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1081.JPG

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1075.JPG

erin

10-24-2005, 04:15 PM

Very nice Scott, things seem to be looking very clean. The rhino lining makes such a difference in the look of a finished priduct. I think I have decided to finish the tops of my sliders in it for traction and just thin coat on the bottom and sides for corrosion protection. Is this the end of the mods or did you find space somewhere else???

Scott Brady

10-24-2005, 04:17 PM

Tool box update:

I have the optima battery installed-
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/tool_box/DSCF1044.JPG

The ExtremeAir compressor installed-
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/tool_box/DSCF1051.JPG

And the tool box vent fan-
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/tool_box/DSCF1045.JPG

And I am nearly finished with the wiring (though it is not shown in the pictures). I will drill a hole in the center of the bed and run all of the wires through and along the frame rail.

Scott Brady

10-24-2005, 04:47 PM

Is this the end of the mods or did you find space somewhere else???

:xxrotflma

Well, pretty much the end of things. After SEMA, I do need to get the water system working and then work on the navigation system. After that it will be just a little tinkering and LOTS of TRIPS :arabia:

The BN Guy

10-24-2005, 05:12 PM

mountainpete

10-24-2005, 05:39 PM

Scott Brady

10-24-2005, 05:47 PM

Pete,

Sorry for missing that question...

It was just a matter of simplicity. I wanted to retain as much of the stock components as possible, and did not want to stress the CV's with the additional angle.

With the dual lockers and long travel in the rear, I am pretty happy (660 on a 23 degree ramp)

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/255-85/DSC02405.JPG

mountainpete

10-24-2005, 06:10 PM

Cool ;)

Have you had any issue with the stock UCA's punching holes?

Scott Brady

10-24-2005, 06:39 PM

Cool ;)

Have you had any issue with the stock UCA's punching holes?

No... Even with "spirited" driving :D

Scott Brady

10-24-2005, 06:42 PM

Scott what about all the other doodads for the OBA? Like the pressure switch, checkvalve, and a safety release valve? Did you skip those lil tinkertoys or are they mounted elsewhere?

Slick looking deck you made.

Thanks :)

The check valve is mounted to the compressor. All of the other goodies are in the engine compartment. 1. pressure switch, line to front chuck, VDO sender, ARB solenoid, etc.

They are all mounted in an aluminum manifold that Slee makes. I will post picks tonight :)

flyingwil

10-25-2005, 08:54 AM

Thanks :)

The check valve is mounted to the compressor. All of the other goodies are in the engine compartment. 1. pressure switch, line to front chuck, VDO sender, ARB solenoid, etc.

They are all mounted in an aluminum manifold that Slee makes. I will post picks tonight :)

Where are the Pic's!?

Wow you have come a long way this week.... You might have to baby-sit my Taco, and maybe I can get it back as a grown up Taco like yours?

:Wow1: WOW! Is about all I can say! :Wow1: Hopefully I won't faint when I see it in real life at the Rally in Nov. Hey At least I can say I got a great role model now! There are 3 Taco's I am jealous of, one is yours, second is the BajaTaco, and the third is Peter Parks rig. I hope that when mine "grows up" it will be a good mesh of all three. Keep up the great work, and thanks for keeping ups posted, Scott. I look forward to the pic's you promised!

The BN Guy

10-25-2005, 04:21 PM

Scott, did I know you're building a DeMello rear bumper but did he build the swing gate or did you? I'm curious about the hinge configuration. I'm still going back and forth on a design. A friend and I came up with one that acutally "Slides" back away from the tailgate and can still swing out. The purpose is to allow me to still lower the tailgate and use the bed extender.

Scott Brady

10-25-2005, 05:01 PM

Demello built the swing out as well. I will dig up some pictures of the hinges and send them to you.

The thing I like most about Jason's design is the four connection points of the swing-out. Two hinges and two latches.

Scott Brady

10-25-2005, 05:03 PM

The Passenger side wiring is finished!

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/DSCF1105.JPG

The winch controller is wired (thanks Chris!) and works great. The gauges are also wired and working. The small black momentary buttons you see next to the gauges are the memory recalls. It will be neat to see just how cold it got outside, etc.

Scott Brady

10-25-2005, 05:10 PM

This shows the Slee air manifold in the engine compartment. From left to right: Compressor input, ARB solenoid, VDO sender, 85-105 pressure switch, output to front air chuck.

The pictures do not show, but it is nearly wired (thanks to Chris). We will drill the hole in the bumper for the air chuck tonight, and run the hose to the inlet. After that, we can test all of the systems.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/compressed_air/DSCF1085.JPG

Scott Brady

10-25-2005, 05:16 PM

The tool box is finished!

This shows the extensive wiring required to manage, monitor and distribute power to all of these systems.

The little switches on the front allow manual intervention to the battery separator.

There are five powered circuits that will run from the fuse block to the back of the cab to power the radios, fridge, inverters, outlets, etc.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/tool_box/DSCF1100.JPG

The BN Guy

10-25-2005, 06:02 PM

Scott Brady

10-25-2005, 06:07 PM

I'm in the process of mounting a compressor in an ammo can but I'm concerned about the heat buildup inside a semi-sealed container. Is it unwarranted? How are others preventing this from happening?

I've thought about using a CPU fan to help bring in cool air. Bad idea or alternate ideas?

Great idea! That is what I am using. I have a 120mm HD CPU fan installed. It turns on when the compressor does. I also installed a foam element filter to keep dust out.

BajaTaco

10-26-2005, 06:03 AM

Scott, I didn't think to ask you this tonight, but is that air supply to the manifold regulated at the compressor?

Scott Brady

10-26-2005, 06:12 AM

Scott, I didn't think to ask you this tonight, but is that air supply to the manifold regulated at the compressor?

No, just with the pressure switch... Are you thinking I need to install a mechanical pressure valve?

BajaTaco

10-26-2005, 06:39 AM

Yea, I think you are supposed to regulate the pressure to the ARB locker - at least with the RD90 anyway. I think if you go much above the high 80's in psi you might risk the seal (mine is set at 85 psi). This is what I was told by my friend Rob who had his locker installed at ARB's shop in Renton, WA (which is now in my truck). You might want to give ARB a call tomorrow and verify ((425) 264 1391). If you do install a regulator, I would actually try to put it between the manifold and solenoid, so you will still have full output pressure available for your air chuck. I got a small Campbell Hausfeld regulator for mine at Home Depot.

Scott Brady

10-26-2005, 03:28 PM

Scott Brady

10-26-2005, 05:37 PM

Here is a quick shot of the new graphics on the hood. There are new side graphics too, but they are not finished quite yet.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/logos/front_logo.JPG

Brian McVickers

10-26-2005, 06:11 PM

Very nice Scott

It's starting to look all professional!!

Scott Brady

10-26-2005, 06:26 PM

This shows a close-up of the shower cover and water inlet. It is all Rhino lined, which looks pretty stealthy IMO

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/shower_cover.JPG

This shows the tool box (with goodies) installed and the platform in place.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/tent_patform.JPG

BajaTaco

10-26-2005, 06:29 PM

The operating pressure of the ARB is 80 minimum, 120 maximum.

My pressure switch shuts the compressor off at 105 to protect the compressor and the ARB. This is the same way the factory ARB system is designed.

I do think that a mechanical pressure gauge is a great idea though, and would make for a good fail safe.

I just looked up an old post that I had on Yotatech when I was installing mine.

" I just talked to WATRD on the phone - he definitely recommends a pressure regulator set at 85 p.s.i. to ensure that the air seals are happy and I don't puke gear oil. I had one in the schematic to begin with, but took it out thinking the ARB would be okay at 85-105 psi (pressure switch). So - the regulator is back in! It will go on the schematic between the press. switch and the locker. "

My diff has indeed puked gear oil on a couple of occasions, and from what I have seen is that it is not all that uncommon with the RD90 in the Tacoma front differential. There is some good speculation on this subject from Lars Dennert (http://pages.sbcglobal.net/larsdennert/4runner/arb/).

To quote his website:

" There have been several issues of gear oil being blown out of the front breather using ARB lockers. There are several things that contribute to the problem. Here are my conclusions.

The breather is too small.
The breather is too low.
The ARB is a 4 pinion carrier displacing much more than the stock 2 pinion. The amount of oil should be adjusted downward.
The ARB carrier is enclosed and that oil could easily be carried over its surface to the top of the diff housing where the breather is. Basically a wave effect. The two pinion has a big hole in the middle. This could be aggravated by the strange angles the truck is sitting at when I really need that locker.
Toyota may have the fill plug too high. Filling to the hole's bottom puts oil almost over the top of the axles.
Any dips in the breather line will catch oil and clog the breather system.
Oil foaming is possible but unlikely.
It is interesting that I can cause blowout from the breather at the moment I engage the locker though. At first I thought I had a bad seal, but the compressor doesn't cycle. Maybe it leaks air while it transitions states.
I mitigated the problem by filling the gear oil to between 1/2" and 1" below the bottom of the fill hole. I then added a second breather. See Toyota Extended Axle breathers (http://pages.sbcglobal.net/larsdennert/4runner/breather/index.html#front) These steps shouldn't be necessary if your ARB and breathers are working optimally. I have since solved those issues. "

I'm not saying you will have problems, I am just saying that it might be worth a call to ARB or an email to Rob. If you just want to go for it and see what happens that's cool, and if you do have any issues at least you are aware of some options. I have found that following Lar's recommendation of filling the gear oil level from 1/2" to 1" below the fill hole has kept mine from puking oil thus far.

bluerunner

10-26-2005, 06:30 PM

Scott!!!

Sexy was the first thing that came to mind when I laid eyes on the back of your truck! and your new hood decal is heart wrenching!

Very nice! and when will you be offering those to paying members? :chowtime:

Scott Brady

10-26-2005, 06:30 PM

This shows the battery switch, which allows me to toggle between the main and auxiliary batteries. That way I can monitor the battery charge state, is the isolator is working and the alternator status.

DPDT switch

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/battery_switch.JPG

Scott Brady

10-26-2005, 06:35 PM

I just looked up an old post that I had on Yotatech when I was installing mine.

Great feedback. I will pick up a pressure regulator today. My Jeep does puke a little oil with the factory ARB configuration.

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 06:11 AM

with a big thanks to Bajataco, the front driving lights are installed. I used Hella H4000 driving beam lamps.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/lighting/hella_H4000.JPG

I also received the excellent Matador work lamp. This is a trick solution, as it has a built in switch to allow activation outside the vehicle. I will have one wired for a back-up lamp and the other as a side "camp" light. These are tough, cool lights.

http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/images/productimages/hella/matadorworklamp.jpg

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 06:13 AM

I was also able to attend to a bunch of details today, including running all of the compressed air lines, system looms, aux. battery 1/0 wire and the new loom to the aux. fuel tank. This will allow me to hook up my front ranger fuel system switch. Running all of the wiring took a TON of time, but it is all coming together.

flyingwil

10-27-2005, 06:22 AM

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 06:39 AM

Looking Incredibly good Scott! I might have missed something, but I am not understanding how your Ezi-Awn attaches to the Platform. I also want to ask if you needed to add any supports to the bed rails to support the new added weight, for example full water and you and Steph in the tent?

Thanks for the kind words Wil :D

The Eezi-Awn attaches to the platform via a set of four extruded aluminum fittings. The fittings slide into the mounting rails of the tent. You can see the four fittings if you look closely at the picture. I will post more pictures on that in a few days.

Regarding weight. Great point! The rails can easily carry 500 lbs. The key to all of this is that the platform distributes the weight evenly across the rails.

None of the water weight is born on the rails. The water tank and frame mounts to the bed floor.

Desertdude

10-27-2005, 10:15 AM

Liking those lights! Giving the fact that there are at least three top choices for light sets - what led you to the Hellas?

Are the switched from a remote or direct wire?

p1michaud

10-27-2005, 02:45 PM

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/lighting/hella_H4000.JPG

Scott,
I'm a bit suprised to see your winch control pack sitting on your front bumper! :Wow1: I thought that I had read that you were thinking of relocating inside the engine compartment?

As you know, I've recently installed a Warn M8000 and had the control pack termporarily zip tied to the front grill since the factory leads are all of 12" long. Well after two days (one day really because Sunday does not count the stores were closed) I could not stand it. With some help from a friend I made up a simple bracket that fits under the stock battery and bolted the contol pack to it. Here is a quick sketch hope it makes sense.

_ __+_____-__
| | | | Battery |
| | | | |
|_| | |__________ |
|_____________|

The winch control pack on the left, an "L" shapped bracket that goes under the stock battery with the end bent up so it can't slide out and the battery sitting on the bracket. With the battery bracket tightened down it does not move. I'll get some pics.

I then made up some longer leads approx 4' to 5' long and voila the control pack is now under the hood.

Some of the pros/cons I can think of right now are:
1-Keeps people from playing with your winch and possibly damaging the truck (i.e. mischievous people that is). I've read of people using paper clips to operate a winch (have not verified if it can be done, plus you would have to know what you are doing). This could also be avoided by a winch power interrupt kit.

2-Brings some weight back from the front bumper althoug it might be off set with the extra 18' of 2 guage wire used (i.e. over all weight of the controller and wire is greater by about 5 lbs)

3-Hotter in the engine compartment.

4-Less likely to be submerged that on the front bumper.

5-You have to open the hood to use the winch, but that will be remedied via an "In Cab" Winch Controler.

Cheers :beer:,
P

Desertdude

10-27-2005, 02:52 PM

Not sure about Scotts engine compartment - but I am going to be hard pressed to fit a spot for the control box... That said I have the cables and a remote extension ( secretly sent to me from Warn) ready to install when I can.

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 03:25 PM

I will be relocating the controller. It will be a good project for next spring, along with the navigation solutions. :jumping:

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 03:52 PM

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 03:53 PM

This shows the side logo...

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/logos/side_logo.JPG

Scott Brady

10-27-2005, 04:04 PM

Liking those lights! Giving the fact that there are at least three top choices for light sets - what led you to the Hellas?

Are the switched from a remote or direct wire?

I have always favored the Hella quality, and the H4000 uses a steel body, is fully sealed and uses a glass lens. The Matador work lamps are just awesome. I have been using Hella work lamps for over 15 years and just love the durability.

I also like the:

IPF 900xs: Fully waterproof (submersible actually)
http://www.arbusa.com/Graphics/IPF/IPF_900xs.jpg

Lightforce 240 HID: Bad dude, but very expensive.

mountainpete

10-27-2005, 04:31 PM

When I was driving into work, my Tacoma spoke to me:

"When I grow up, I want to be like the Expeditions West Taco!" :bowdown:

Love the graphics, lights and especially the air chuck on the ARB bumper. :bowdown:

BajaTaco

10-27-2005, 05:06 PM

This project is just way too exciting and fun :jumping: The truck is just really coming together now and looking soooo sweet. SEMA is cool and all... but I can't WAIT to see this rig camped out on the sea of cortez. Ahhhh....

:suning:

bluerunner

10-27-2005, 05:45 PM

Scott are you running air from the compressor in your tool box or what... for the front air chuck?

The side logo looks really clean and hardcore! :bowdown:

datrupr

10-27-2005, 05:54 PM

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

The BN Guy

10-27-2005, 06:44 PM

p1michaud

10-27-2005, 07:27 PM

...my Tacoma spoke to me:

"When I grow up, I want to be like the Expeditions West Taco!"

Ditto on that! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Scott your truck is simply amazing. Just when I think the truck is done, you come up with something else.

I can see it now, 4WD Toyota Owners is going to have to do a story on your Taco as well. Another rig from this forum for them to write up! :luxhello:

Cheers :beer:,
P

flyingwil

10-27-2005, 09:48 PM

erin

10-27-2005, 10:06 PM

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 12:38 AM

I don't know if you prefer steel or aluminum, but I have a Delta Pro box that looks exactly like Scott's with the exception that it is not as deep into the bed. It leaves about 6" of room underneath for long objects. So far I am very pleased with it. I went with this one because of price(~$225), and also because its very light weight, unlike some of the steel ones we have used at my company. It should fit your dbl cab fine because it clears my wheel humps completly front and back.

Hope this helps. :)

Hmmm... The delta boxes are on sale at Checker for $130.... I really am not a fan of the Chrome though... plus 90% of the time they are cheaper black and I think that looks better! The down side is that the Delta boxes are 19" and the one scott has looks a bit smaller, when you have a DC, size matters and everything has to be mini-size!

Thanks for your input!

Nullifier

10-28-2005, 01:36 AM

As you know Scot I am running the dee zee chest. It's only 37" across so there is room on each side for an extra fuel tank or other storage. I prefer the floor mounted chest to the hung from the rail alternative personally. I think they are more functional since the space under most of those boxes is wasted unless you happen to have something long and small in.

Some day before the end of the year I will have it converted to an electrical box so all that stuff will be safe and prtected from weather. I think I paid $200 for it at the local truck accessory shop. I did get my power inverter in last week it is a zantrec 1000w along with my viar 2.5 gallon tank and fitings. Now all I need is the dual battery monitor and wire and I'm ready to start the project.

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 04:31 AM

Here is the front mounted air chuck. It sits behind the bull-bar tube for protection. I will fit it with a protective cap.

I also purchased a mini regulator that I will install

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/compressed_air/bumper_air_chuck.JPG

Are you going to put a cap on the air chuck? I would be concerned about getting debris and water into the chuck. You could pick up some caps Here (http://www.mocap.com/product-protection.asp) that would work perfect in protecting the chuck.

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 05:31 AM

Scott are you running air from the compressor in your tool box or what... for the front air chuck?

The side logo looks really clean and hardcore! :bowdown:

Yes, the air line runs all the way from the toolbox to the air manifold in the engine compartment.

And to that note. The compressed air system is DONE. ARB works, minimal leaking, etc. Gauge also works great.

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 05:35 AM

Looking good Scott. Digging the new graphics

The airline that you ran from the compressor to the front...did you run that through the frame or outside? IOW, how did you secure the airline?

That deck looks great!

It takes an interesting path, coming out of the back of the tool box, makes a 90 then under the box, makes another 90, then through the bed gromit (along with all of the electric stuff), then over the exhaust heat shield along the fuel lines then to the frame, along the frame to the engine bay. Lots of heat shielding, split loom etc to protect the bundle.

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 05:36 AM

Ditto on that! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

Scott your truck is simply amazing. Just when I think the truck is done, you come up with something else.

I can see it now, 4WD Toyota Owners is going to have to do a story on your Taco as well. Another rig from this forum for them to write up! :luxhello:

Cheers :beer:,
P

Look for part one of three in the third issue. There is going to be a whole series on expedition stuff.

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 05:38 AM

Look for part one of three in the third issue. There is going to be a whole series on expedition stuff.

Sweet! I cant wait for it to come again! Best reading ever while sitting on throne (aka bathroom)! Now, if it were only a monthly issue! I am to impatient, i guess!

Wil

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 05:42 AM

Where did you get this box from? I remember a link to a site over on TTORA's national board, but the site kept telling me that it wouldn't fit a DC.

Thanks,
Wil

You can find more info on the box HERE (http://www.deflectashield.com/deflecta_shield_truck_category_objectname_deflecta _shield_truck_storage_boxes.aspx):

It is a lund, challenger series by deflecta-shield.

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 05:44 AM

You can find more info on the box HERE (http://www.deflectashield.com/deflecta_shield_truck_category_objectname_deflecta _shield_truck_storage_boxes.aspx):

It is a lund, challenger series by deflecta-shield.

Sweet! That hit the spot, did you use the dealer from the post over at TTORA? I thought I saw you replied to it. It is definately a nice find and a nice lookin' box! :box:

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 05:53 AM

Sweet! That hit the spot, did you use the dealer from the post over at TTORA? I thought I saw you replied to it. It is definately a nice find and a nice lookin' box! :box:

No, I got a "special" deal from Lund...

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 06:01 AM

I think I need to get some sweet deals too... only I allways seem to pay the highest price(s) even when I shop around!

I think you missed my question on the air chucks, are you going to cover/cap them?

Are you going to put a cap on the air chuck? I would be concerned about getting debris and water into the chuck. You could pick up some caps Here (http://www.mocap.com/product-protection.asp) that would work perfect in protecting the chuck.

BajaTaco

10-28-2005, 06:05 AM

Yep he said in his post with the pic of the chuck that he will get a cap for it.

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 06:12 AM

Yep he said in his post with the pic of the chuck that he will get a cap for it.

Man! Today Just isn't my day! Thanks Chris! Well, anyways, at least there's a linkt to a cap site that might help him (on the bright side).

BajaTaco

10-28-2005, 06:20 AM

Man! Today Just isn't my day! Thanks Chris! Well, anyways, at least there's a linkt to a cap site that might help him (on the bright side).

:p

no worries man, it happens to me all the time ;)

Thanks for the link :beer:

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 04:07 PM

I am really happy with how this turned out. Chris mounted up the Hella Matador on the side of the tool box and also installed the bike mount. Everything clears when you open the lid.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/tool_box/hella_matador.JPG

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 04:11 PM

Here is the tent installed on the platform. You can now see how all of the support items work together, the positioning of the shower, etc.
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/Eezi_awn_1200.JPG

Scott Brady

10-28-2005, 04:23 PM

Note: the truck is filthy and a wreck from all of the mods. You guys are getting "raw" coverage :)

This shows the two switches for the aux. lights. One activates the rear lamp (for backing up) and the other is for a future set of spot lamps in the front.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/aux_lights.JPG

This shows the air compressor switch. Everything is working. The compressor fires up and runs to about 100 psi before shutting off. It kicks back on at 85. It is much more quiet than I expected.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/compressor.JPG

This shows the front light switch (for the hellas) and the new (and super cool) fuel control switch. It runs the aux. fuel system and works great. The only challenge is that the ohm range is reversed (on the Trooper tank), so when it is empty, it will read full on the little LEDs. No big deal though for such a compact solution.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/electrical/front_light.JPG

flyingwil

10-28-2005, 04:50 PM

bluerunner

10-28-2005, 07:49 PM

Yeah, that thing is coming together swimmingly! :ylsmoke:

Scott Brady

10-29-2005, 05:22 AM

The color camera from Total Vision Products (http://www.totalvisionproducts.com/) is installed. With the roof tent and spare tire, I had no rearward visibility. Now I do :)

This little mod is certainly my one dirty little "bling" concession...

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/vision_system/rear_camera.JPG

The monitor is also mounted, but I don't have a good picture yet. I will post it in the morning. The monitor is a Xenarc (http://www.xenarc.com/) touch screen TFT with VGA and composite inputs. It has three inputs total, allowing for additional cameras in the future.

Scott Brady

10-29-2005, 05:26 AM

I have installed the second Matador lamp as a back up light. It is switched on from inside the cab.

It also will work as the "camp" light on the passenger side when the tailgate is open. This allows for the driver (mounted to the toolbox) and passenger sides to have lighting in camp.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/lighting/back-up_lamp.JPG

Desertdude

10-29-2005, 06:17 AM

I am glad you posted about the camera set up - we should have a thread about it, and how well it works :chowtime:

flyingwil

10-29-2005, 11:15 AM

I am glad you posted about the camera set up - we should have a thread about it, and how well it works :chowtime:

I agree! I wonder how well it will work in extremely duty conditions, and or muddy conditions. (Maybe Chris will Chime in) I love the idea and am glad to see Total Vision getting under way in the off-road market! The only down falls might be cleaning the lenses. I cant wait to check out Scott and Chris' camera systems in Nov! Just around the corner...

Wil

Scott Brady

10-29-2005, 06:56 PM

As promised, here is the monitor installed and functioning. The camera has an excellent field of view, from just a few feet behind the truck to infinity. The daytime performance of the screen is better than I expected.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/vision_system/xenarc_monitor.JPG

BajaTaco

10-29-2005, 07:15 PM

NICE!!! :victory:

Cleaning the lenses is no big deal, to me anyway. In the southwest, it's not much of an issue - maybe it would be in BC or the northwest and such areas due to frequency of mud. I think Scott's will rarely need to be cleaned due to the height and location, and it will likey be heavy dust that eventually needs to be cleaned more so than mud. But cleaning the lenses is pretty effortless, and I have only had to do it a few times since I have had my cams installed. For the benefit gained, it's not really even a consideration IMO.

kcowyo

10-29-2005, 09:06 PM

Reading this thread is kinda like going to Las Vegas.....

I can barely absorb one amazing post before there is another, even more amazing than the one before. Talk about sensory overload....

:beer::beer::beer: NICE JOB SCOTT! :beer::beer::beer:

blupaddler

10-30-2005, 08:33 PM

Scott
Pardon my lack of understanding. I am still trying to figure out electrical stuff. :confused:

The work lamp on the bumper is wired to your reverse lights, AND you can manually switch it on also? Can you elaborate how this is done?

I had some reverse lights wired up to a previous truck. Now with the super dark windows, backing up can be a chore. I have some Hella 500's sitting around that I don't know what to do with. B/C some Lightforce 240's found their way to my front bumper. :D

bluerunner

10-30-2005, 11:59 PM

Yeah can we see how you ran the wiring too maybe, so that it works with the swing out?

I know it just takes longer wiring but you always do such great work it would be a treat! :D

p1michaud

10-31-2005, 12:33 AM

I will be relocating the controller. It will be a good project for next spring, along with the navigation solutions. :jumping:

Scott, I'm not sure if you already had a location in mind, but if your engine bay is anything like mine, space is at a premium so this is what I came up with for a mounting solution for the winch controller.

Cramped Engine compartment
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/p1michaud/Warn_M8000/DSC02772.jpg

Controller location pic 1
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/p1michaud/Warn_M8000/DSC02774.jpg

Controller location pic 2
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/p1michaud/Warn_M8000/DSC02775.jpg

Cheers :beer:,
p

bluerunner

10-31-2005, 12:46 AM

and it clears everything i guess once you hook the remote control up to it?

p1michaud

10-31-2005, 05:09 PM

and it clears everything i guess once you hook the remote control up to it?

Yes it does, not by mutch but it does. You will want to ensure that the remote wire can't get tangled in the fan. :Wow1:

Cheers :beer:,
P

Brian McVickers

10-31-2005, 06:12 PM

p1michaud

11-01-2005, 01:06 PM

When I was first instructed on the use of a winch I was told to always raise the hood of the vehicle during winching. The hood would then serve as a shield if the cable snapped. Your set-up with the contol box under the hood would actually force this practice which is not always the easiest thing to do.

Excellent point, having the hood up is an excellent practice, but not always easy or possible in some situations as you mentionned. I have also added an In Cab Winch Controller as another alternative.

Cheers :beer:,
P

Scott Brady

11-01-2005, 04:12 PM

Just use synthetic line. Greatly reduces the missle hazard... :)

Brian McVickers

11-01-2005, 04:40 PM

Man I really like the synthetic line, so many great things about it.
I am actually replacing my winch line today if I can find the time.
My old line had three or four serious kinks in it from the old owner of the truck
not stowing the line properly. I got tired of pressing my luck and figured it was time to replace.
I found a guy who had just bought a new winch and upgraded to synthetic so he had a brand new 100'
length of 5/16" steel line. For $50 I could not resist and there are a few other mods on my list
ahead of a $250 synthetic line.

p1michaud

11-02-2005, 12:06 AM

Just use synthetic line. Greatly reduces the missle hazard... :)

My synthetic line and synthetic hawse fairlead has been delivered. I just have to pick it up and install it. Safe and less weight up front. :jumping:

Cheer :beer:,
P

mountainpete

11-02-2005, 04:24 PM

My synthetic line and synthetic hawse fairlead has been delivered. I just have to pick it up and install it. Safe and less weight up front. :jumping:

Cheer :beer:,
P

Where did you order it from? Were you able to find a good supplier in Canada?

Scott Brady

11-07-2005, 03:08 PM

I got the synthetic line from Roadless Gear (http://www.roadlessgear.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Store_Code=toy) and the fairlead from Fourtreks (http://www.fourtreks.com/)

p1michaud

11-08-2005, 01:17 PM

Where did you order it from? Were you able to find a good supplier in Canada?

mountainpete,
Unfortunately I had to order throught the states because I could not justify paying an extra $400 to 500 by purchasing in Canada. :confused:

The winch came from justliftkits (http://www.justliftkits.com/) via eBay. Call them, great phone service, but they are a bit slow to answer e-mails.

Synthetic line came from RockStomper (http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/recovery/ropes.htm) great price and service.

The UHMW fairlead came from SKY-Manufacturing (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/) cheap but I'd go with Fourtreks unit. See here (http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21&goto=lastpost) for reasons.

Cheers :beer:,
P

The BN Guy

11-08-2005, 02:03 PM

I didn't realize synthrope was that inexpensive! Good prices for what I need!

vanguard

11-22-2005, 04:45 AM

Scott,

First of all, I really like your rig and appreciate your website. Newbs like me learn a lot from it. I've been thinking of following your footsteps with the 255/85/16 BFG MTs and I'm wondering why you replaced the stock wheels. Is it just the chromophobia or was there something else about the stock wheels that you were looking to improve on?

Thanks in advance.

Scott Brady

11-22-2005, 02:17 PM

:wavey: Great to have you on the forum!

The stock wheels work great with the 255/85. Here is a picture of Brets Tacoma with that configuration:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/adventures/2005/Coke_ovens/pages/DSCF7324_JPG.htm

I chose the steel wheels for three minor reasons. I wanted a little less offset (4") which widened my track by 1". I wanted black wheels (less flashyness in a third world country) and I wanted the "repairability" of a steel wheel.

vanguard

11-22-2005, 02:57 PM

Thanks for the reply. I forget where I read it but somebody on the internet predicted that those tires wouldn't fit under the bed without modification. It seems unlikely that you would leave that off your website but if it's on the internet it must be true. :)

So, will I be able to fit the spare in the stock position without breaking out the grinder?

Scott Brady

11-22-2005, 03:01 PM

No, the spare tire will not fit under the truck without modification. I have a swing-out tire rack.

I know that Bret made it work by bending or cutting two of the spare tire supports. Goodtimes might know what he did.

Scott Brady

12-01-2005, 06:07 AM

Well, I am now working on the water system. I have the Hubbell water heater with 450watt element, the water tank and a cool little FloJet pressure pump.

I do have a question for you super cool contractor/plumber types:

I need to mount the one gallon water heater vertically. The water inlet is at the bottom of the unit and the outlet is at the top. While the heating element is running there MUST be water in the hot water tank or it will burn the element out. So without having to run the pressure pump while the element is on, how can I keep the water from draining out of the hot water heater?

Normally, it is not a problem and a house has constant pressure. Can I use a one way valve? What is the best quality and can almost guarantee no bleed back? I do not want to use a manual valve, as access it a pain.

I thought about just looping the inlet hose from the tank to the pressure pump and then higher that the outlet of the hot water heater to prevent drain back, but is that fool proof?

Here is a general mounting image for reference:

http://www.hubbellheaters.com/assets/images/ce110.jpg

http://www.hubbellheaters.com/assets/images/ce3b.gif

Come on, save me a few hours of research (I am normally that anal about mods, but I have no time right now :Wow1: )

BajaTaco

12-01-2005, 06:58 AM

Scott, I would just use a spring-loaded check valve like this (http://www.nibco.com/assets/T480FP.pdf) , which can be installed in a vertical or horizontal position. I don't know what you plan to plumb the line with, but these are typically bronze - you can get them with standard pipe thread or or solder-end if you want to use copper.

If you want to be absolutely, positively, analistically (LOL) sure that there is no backflow, you could get something like this (http://www.wattsreg.com/pdf/ES-6-P6.pdf) (brass one) or this (http://www.wattsreg.com/pdf/ES-600.pdf) used for well service. There is a place right by your house called Hughes Supply that should have at least basic spring checks.

Nullifier

12-01-2005, 01:48 PM

Scott Maybe this is stupid on my part but is there some reason why switching off the heater when you are not using it would be a problem. I would think placing an on off switch would solve your problem unless you have a specific reason for wanting the heater always full of water. In fact I would bet you can set up 1 switch for the pump and heater so there is no chance of forgeting to turn on the pump. I wouldn't think it would take more then 10-15 minutes to heat up the water once it was turned on. That is surely less time then it takes to set up camp anyway.

Probably missing something here by going for the obvious but that is how we I have seen it set up on some boats.

Desertdude

12-01-2005, 02:18 PM

Those fine check valves Chris posted would be the only automatic way of keeping the water inside the tank. I am not sure you could get a loop high enough to guarantee it. Check valves <can> fail over time depending on the type of water. Making a normal pressure system and running the pump before switching the heater on could also work.

Scott Brady

12-01-2005, 02:26 PM

Hey Brian, thanks for the suggestion. The reason is the heat-up time. It takes 60 minutes of the heating element to raise the water temp 48 degrees. So if I set the thermostat for 120 and it is 50 degrees out (the temp the bulk storage water would be) it would take nearly two hours to fully heat the one gallon of water in the water heater. This is a low watt unit.

So, I need to be heating while I am driving to save battery capacity for the fridge, etc.

The second reason is that the unit is well insulated, so as soon as the water is heated, it will hold with only a 20 degree drop in 24 hours at 60 degree air temp.

In summary:

1. Need to heat while driving
2. Time it takes to heat the water
3. Keep hot water with unit off for washing dishes, etc.

At least that is my logic :D

Scott Brady

12-01-2005, 02:35 PM

Desertdude

12-01-2005, 02:49 PM

Those Midi CV's look like a winner ( low pressure drop)

FEATURES Series 6 ?Elastomer seat ?Installation in horizontal or vertical position ?Low pressure drop; low opening pressure ?Positive back stop ?Brass body Series P-6 ?Plastic check valve ?Extremely low cracking pressure ?Full flow capabilities ?Bubble-tight seating ?Corrosion-resistant ?NSF approved grade acetal body Watts 6 1?2" - 1" (15-25mm) Watts P6 Series Watts P6

another idea =

here (http://www.plastomatic.com/solenoidvalves.html)

BajaTaco

12-01-2005, 03:50 PM

Chris and Pasquale,

I think I will use a check valve and loop the line higher than the outlet as a back-up.

How much flow pressure do those valves eat? My little FloJet is only 50psi at 2.9 gallons per minute.

Sounds good. The Midi-valve from Watts has a press. loss chart on the 2nd page - it doesn't start to lose press. until about 7.5 GPM for the 1/2" and 5 GPM for the 3/8" size and then it's only 1 psi. The Nibco valve press. loss is not listed, but I don't imagine it is much different.

Nullifier

12-01-2005, 07:13 PM

Got ya See those are the details that make the difference. Well then why not get an in line vale that operated on a 1/4 turn and mount it so the valve halnde comes up through your rear deck. The it would be easy access access and easy on/off. I

If your tank and pump are located on the inside in the bed already that would be a very easy plumbing job to add that valve right in the same area on the rear deck.

Scott Brady

12-02-2005, 05:43 PM

I took a few pictures of the truck yesterday for an upcoming mag article, and thought I would share:

http://www.expeditionswest.com/vehicles/ewvehicles/tacoma/prsct_shoot.JPG

Desertdude

12-02-2005, 07:06 PM

You cannot get more Expedition than your Tacoma :clapsmile

Nice outback style photo

upcruiser

12-02-2005, 08:11 PM

Ok, so I couldn't read all the info in this thread, but skimmed through it. That is one IMPRESSIVE Taco. Wow very nice work there. Now I hope you get to enjoy it fully. :clapsmile

Scott Brady

12-03-2005, 04:13 AM

Now I hope you get to enjoy it fully. :clapsmile

I appreciate the kind words. What you just said above is about where I am. Over a year long build, and now it is time to get her dirty. I only have three more systems to address:

1. Seats: GTSII's should be arriving shortly
2. Navigation: Garmin 376c, further testing with laptop and touchscreen
3. Communication: Sat. comm., CB and XM

After that, I am probably going to work on refining my gear lists, packing systems, etc. But pretty much just drive it.

Now my Jeep has been on my mind a little bit. It will be the next project, for pulling my new Adventure Trailer across the trails in CO, AZ and UT.

+ d

12-03-2005, 05:04 AM

I took a few pictures of the truck yesterday for an upcoming mag article, and thought I would share:

:bowdown:

gjackson

12-03-2005, 05:53 PM

Scott,

Seems you could loose some weight (not much!) by getting rid of some of that Eezi Awn ladder. A couple we travelled with welded up a small extension base for the ladder that fit into the rails. Sorry I don't have pics of it.

Awesome looking rig though. Sorry I missed it at the rally!

cheers

Scott Brady

12-04-2005, 10:31 PM

Good idea RE the ladder trimming. I have resisted it as I have considered using it on the roof of the Trooper on occasion.

Scott Brady

12-09-2005, 05:28 PM

I am starting the water system installation tomorrow. I have the pump, hot water heater, most of the fittings and a new BedRug to install.

I have changed the configuration some though, as the water tank was originally going to be mounted sideways, from wheel well to wheel well. I think that will be an issue, as 200 pounds of water moves back and forth. So I am going to mount it long ways, on the passenger side.

Look for pictures soon!

HongerVenture

12-09-2005, 06:49 PM

Scott,
Does your water tank have any kind of internal baffles? Gas tanks often have internal baffles to minimize the inertial forces of moving liquid. Just curious if your water tank has any similar internal considerations.

Joel

Scott Brady

12-09-2005, 06:52 PM

Joel,

Well timed question. Chris and I were just talking about that today. The tank does not have any baffling, so I have changed the mounting direction which favors the long wheelbase.

HongerVenture

12-09-2005, 08:59 PM

I'm thinking that if that tank has a longer dimension, it should be oriented running perpendicular to the length of the truck. A side-to-side motion will only be incurred on highly technical trails. Although, arguably that is the worst situation due to the shifting CG from shifting liquids.

I would imagine a half-full tank will cause a larger perceived motion if the length is aligned with the length of the truck. Start/stop and acceleration/deceleration movements will affect the fluid more.

Of course, if the tank is totally full then you won't have this problem at all...
I think the worst effects will result in the 3/4 full to 1/2 full range. Once you get below half full your fluid dynamics will become more turbulent and therefore exert less inertia (that and less mass obviously). Just some rough thoughts from my recollection of fluid dynamics classes.

Still, a "wicked" cool set-up either way. :cool:

Joel

Brian McVickers

12-09-2005, 09:10 PM

[QUOTE=HongerVenture] Although, arguably that is the worst situation due to the shifting CG from shifting liquids.

I think Scott is on the right track here with mouning the tank lengthwise front to back in the truck. The moving balast will have much less affect on the vehicle when moving lenthwise. Actually I would be surprised if it will ever make a difference at all but in planning you may as well take every precaution you can!
The side to side motion of the balast, if the tank were mounted sideways, would be more detrimental to vehicle trim in offcamber situations and even affect its righting moment once it gets tilted over sideways.

Brian McVickers

12-09-2005, 09:15 PM

Another thought,
Mounting the tank sideways could also have detrimental affects to the vehicles response time at high speeds on the road. Even in a low CG pickup design like the Taco you would still be fighting the moving balast if you had to swerve since the balast would not move at the same time as the rest of the vehicle.
Probably would not be noticeable unless you were on slick, wet or icy, pavement.

HongerVenture

12-09-2005, 11:21 PM

I think you're right... the more I've thought about the more I see the shifting CG being worse for side to side situations. While you move backward/forward more often than side/side, it doesn't have nearly the negative impact.

Nevertheless, the real issue is how full/empty the tank is on how much you'll feel it. Scott said something about 200 lbs of water... well even half of that (100lbs) is a lot of weight to be moving around. The size of the container is probably small enough that we are all over-reacting a little anyway.

But what's the fun of building up our rigs if we can't be extremely detail oriented... :victory:

Scott Brady

12-10-2005, 12:07 AM

Those are my overall thoughts as well. I am more concerned about side-to-side issues than front to back. I will also benefit from a loading perspective, as the stock fuel tank is on the drivers side (along with the heavier occupant), so it should help balance things out.

I do expect that at half tank I will notice the movement (124 lbs.)

Thanks so much for the feedback guys!

bluerunner

12-11-2005, 07:33 PM

Happy Birthday! :clapsmile

Scott Brady

12-13-2005, 01:51 AM

Happy Birthday! :clapsmile

Thanks :)... Steph got me a video Ipod, so I am pretty geeked!:D

flyingwil

12-13-2005, 02:49 AM

Thanks :)... Steph got me a video Ipod, so I am pretty geeked!:D

Thoose are pretty sweet! Congrats! My buddy at work has one and he is able to record shows and movies on his Tivo or DVR thingy and transfer them to his iPod. He then hooks it up at work, and uses one of the monitors at work to play all his stuff during the night shift. (Each computer has 3 monitors at work.) So there definately is some options out there for that nice drop down screen you got there! Perhaps campside movies?

Desertdude

12-13-2005, 03:01 AM

Thanks :)... Steph got me a video Ipod, so I am pretty geeked!:D

welcome to the club!

and a nod to Steph for the fine choice in electronics ;)

datrupr

12-13-2005, 04:11 PM

Yes, happy belated Scott. Sorry, I hve been very busy lately and have been away from the boards.

The BN Guy

12-13-2005, 05:18 PM

Happy Belated Birthday Scott!

:archaeolo

Suty

12-13-2005, 05:43 PM

Happy Birthday to Ya Scott. May all your Breaks be Right ,so you'll be Left. Tu Compadre, Suty

Scott Brady

12-14-2005, 12:00 AM

Thanks so much all :)

The real xmas/birthday celebration starts on the 26th :suning:

Scott Brady

12-20-2005, 01:42 AM

The final system modification is in process. It involves removing the entire tent system and installing a Wise Industries BedRug. With the rug installed, I will mount the 30 gallon water tank, water heater, pressure pump and all of the hoses and fittings. This final effort also includes running all of the final electronics systems, like the solar panels, inverter, wiring to the platform 12v and 120v outlets and wiring of the battery charger for using an RV hook-up.

The first step was to remove the tent and the tent platform.

Warning: Naked Expeditions West Taco :elkgrin:
http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1218.JPG

Then I assembled the BedRug, which is a simple process of zipping the side panel to the floor panel. Al Walter's recommendation went a long way towards choosing this solution. His BedRug has seen two years of hard use and shows little sign of wear.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1222.JPG

The BedRug is an ultra quality unit, and is built to QS9000 quality standards. This picture shows the molded injection foam floor panel. The molded section conforms to the trucks floor, providing a smooth and cushioned surface.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1224.JPG

This shows the BedRug installed, but without final Velcro attachments.

http://www.expeditionswest.com/equipment/tacoma/bed/DSCF1225.JPG

The main reason for getting the BedRug was because of its protection properties for gear and equipment. The high dollar StormCase's wont get scratched and the rug makes for a great cushioned foundation for the water tank. Since the area below the deck is secured and weather resistant, this makes for a nice insulated and cushioned environment.

BajaTaco

12-20-2005, 02:08 AM

Until you showed me the other day, I hadn't seen the underside of a bedrug before - I was impressed. It looks really high quality. I think it will go a long way on eliminating friction/vibration-wear and improving noise levels and insulation of all of your cargo/water components.

blupaddler

12-20-2005, 05:20 AM

I have heard nothing but good things about the bed rugs too.

A good friend of mine has one in his Ford. He's had it for years, and it's gone through Baja trips, dogs, surfboards, salt water, etc, etc.

Good purchase!!! Now that you are done, you will need come out to CA for a while and help me finish. :D

:gunt:

Desertdude

12-20-2005, 05:57 AM

Very clean and cushy :) So no issues with water dripping below?

Brrr it is too cold to work on the trucks :D

Desertdude

12-20-2005, 06:04 AM

meaning water from the outside ( not the plumbing)

Scott Brady

12-20-2005, 03:27 PM

Very clean and cushy :) So no issues with water dripping below?

Brrr it is too cold to work on the trucks :D

Pasquale,

I do get a little leakage, but it is minimal. The tool box seals to the front of the bed, then the platform seals to the toolbox (though that seal needs some more consideration). The platform is above the rails and above the tailgate.

Not totaly dust and waterproof, but pretty good.

And the cool thing is, the BedRug is marine grade and can sit soaked for weeks without mildew.

Oh, and you are right about the cold. Not very motivating.

awalter

12-20-2005, 03:28 PM

I've actually had mine for over 5 years. The only real wear spot I have is where an old metal toolbox was hitting the left wheel housing. When the toolbox got stolen, I replaced it with a fabric toolbag, but the wear spot remains.

Desertdude

12-20-2005, 03:40 PM

Somehow I new you had it all figured out :)

I look forward to seeing the rig in full regalia!

Pasquale,

I do get a little leakage, but it is minimal. The tool box seals to the front of the bed, then the platform seals to the toolbox (though that seal needs some more consideration). The platform is above the rails and above the tailgate.

Not totaly dust and waterproof, but pretty good.

And the cool thing is, the BedRug is marine grade and can sit soaked for weeks without mildew.

Oh, and you are right about the cold. Not very motivating.

Ursidae69

12-20-2005, 04:35 PM

Nice bed rug Scott! Me like! Have you done anything to stop dust from under the rails? I seem to have a lot of dust entering from under the rails. Didn't MrS seal the holes up under his rails in his Taco? I forget.

p1michaud

12-20-2005, 05:07 PM

A late happy B-Day to you Scott!
:clapsmile

Nice looking bed rug. I wonder how they would work in our Canadian weather with lots of variation in the temperature (i.e. freeze/thaw cycles in less than 12 hrs). I think they might hold too much moisture, not a real issue for the bed rug, but it might be a problem for the sheet metal long term.

Have you done anything to stop dust from under the rails? I seem to have a lot of dust entering from under the rails. Didn't MrS seal the holes up under his rails in his Taco? I forget.

I'm interested in the response since I have the same issue. It's real noticeable when I hose off the uderside of the truck after some serious mud. I open the back to find a buch of dirt/mud pushed into the back and on the sleeping platform! :eek:

Cheers :beer:,
P