Tacoma brakes

[Jonathan Hanson]

I thought I'd share a couple of things I've been learning about Tacoma front disk brakes.

Tacomas are known, rather sporadically, for developing what are mistakenly called "warped" front disks. That is, the brakes begin shuddering on high speed descents, then worsen until the problem is noticeable at lower speeds. Some people experience this at very low mileage; others never experience it at all. We noticed it first with about 100,000 miles on our truck, and replaced the rotors and pads with new Toyota parts. But the problem recently cropped up again, barely 30,000 miles later.

What is actually happening, I learned, is that the rotors are glazing--material from the pad cooks unevenly onto the rotor, producing the pulsing that feels like warpage. You can see the bluish deposits on the rotor by looking through the wheel. Our left rotor got it bad this time, and quickly ate through what was left of the pad, scoring the disk.

Word I get from several master Toyota mechanics (including my nephew) is that the problem is Toyota's choice of pad material. No one seems to be able to predict when or if the situation will appear--again, many owners never experience it.

This time I decided, again on advice, to try a different route. I installed Brembo rotors and Metal Master pads. Choice of rotors was mainly due to the fact that they cost less than factory rotors (despite being from the company that supplies Ferrari). But I'm told these pads should eliminate the glazing problem. I should have a followup report in another 50,000 miles or so . . .

http://www.stoptech.com/ Has some excellent information on the correct method for bedding in new brake pads to ensure long life and optimal performance.

[Suty]

Jon, I just replaced mine I had 72K on them, I bought some Drilled Rotors from IRotors and some of the Posi-Quiet Pads. I feel like my stopping has improved but, I will need to see how they last. Tu Compa, Suty

[Scott Brady]

This thread is well timed, as I need to address the brakes on my HEAVY Taco. Jonathan from TLC (http://www.tlc4x4.com/2000/Parts/tlc_monster_calipers.htm) in So Cal is working on a set of better calipers with SSBC. That, combined with better pad material will improve stopping. Then I hope to source a set of crossed drilled or slotted rotors to improve fading and reduce glazing.

My brake performance at this point is unacceptable, so I need to make changes quickly...

[kcowyo]

My brake performance at this point is unacceptable, so I need to make changes quickly...

Note to self - Do not ride in front of Scott next week at the ExPo Rally! :xxrotflma

[Suty]

Note to self - Do not ride in front of Scott next week at the ExPo Rally! :xxrotflma

Sadly, I cannot attend this years expo, but , That Note to Self is too funny ,I don't care who you are. :xxrotflma

[asteffes]

Gentlemen,

My experience with upgraded brakes on track cars has taught me that cross-drilled rotors offer no significant improvement in performance while making it *much* more likely that one will experience severe rotor cracking in much less time than with solid or slotted rotors. The problem is that the cross-drilled holes create many little points on the rotor where stress is magnified and uneven. Eventually, after many heat cycles, the holes will develop small cracks. These cracks grow until they meet other cracks. Before you know it, you have a severe crack along the rotor surface from the inside to the outside edge of the rotor. When this happens you'll experience severe vibration and loss of braking effectiveness. You do *not* want this to happen when you're out in the middle of nowhere, and spare rotors are very heavy parts to carry with you.

I would respectfully suggest that you stick with OEM or aftermarket solid or slotted rotors, and stay far away from cross-drilled rotors of any kind.
-Adam

[Suty]

Gentlemen,

My experience with upgraded brakes on track cars has taught me that cross-drilled rotors offer no significant improvement in performance while making it *much* more likely that one will experience severe rotor cracking in much less time than with solid or slotted rotors. The problem is that the cross-drilled holes create many little points on the rotor where stress is magnified and uneven. Eventually, after many heat cycles, the holes will develop small cracks. These cracks grow until they meet other cracks. Before you know it, you have a severe crack along the rotor surface from the inside to the outside edge of the rotor. When this happens you'll experience severe vibration and loss of braking effectiveness. You do *not* want this to happen when you're out in the middle of nowhere, and spare rotors are very heavy parts to carry with you.

I would respectfully suggest that you stick with OEM or aftermarket solid or slotted rotors, and stay far away from cross-drilled rotors of any kind.
-Adam


OOPS, Too late know I have Drilled and Slotted. Guess I will need to keep a eye on them. Thanks for the info. Tu Compadre, Suty

[Jonathan Hanson]

Another tip: Use your parking brake frequently. The ratcheting mechanism is what adjusts the rear brake shoes on Tacomas. Infrequent use of the parking brake might put extra stress on the front brakes, exacerbating the glazing problem and causing unbalanced braking.

Scott, maybe you should be the first to swap a set of ceramic disk brakes off a Porsche Carrera into a Tacoma . . .

[BajaTaco]

I must be one of the lucky guys. 128,000 miles on the original rotors. Maybe because I have a manual trans?

[asteffes]

I must be one of the lucky guys. 128,000 miles on the original rotors. Maybe because I have a manual trans?

Dealers and brake shops are fond of getting people to spend more than they should on brake jobs. I almost always hear that one should replace the rotors when changing the pads, but this isn't necessarily true. If you're sticking to the same pad compound, or moving to one slightly more aggressive, keeping the same set of rotors shouldn't cause any problems.

I tend to think one should replace rotors only when there are signs they are at the end of their lifespan. That is, when they show lots of microcracks on the surface or if they have worn past the factory-specified wear limit.

[bluerunner]

Wow!

Very informative! :bowdown:

[kevin]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought drum brakes self adjust when brakes are applied while traveling backwards, not from the parking brake. Anyway, Toyota should at least offer a rear disc option.

[p1michaud]

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought drum brakes self adjust when brakes are applied while traveling backwards, not from the parking brake. Anyway, Toyota should at least offer a rear disc option.

Not the Tacoma. When you apply your parking brake it adjusts your rear brakes. I tried using the parking brake when travelling in reverse to adjust your rear brakes and it only cause me to have the rear brakes lock up before the front ones. Not good. I had to manually re-adjust the rear brakes.


I must be one of the lucky guys. 128,000 miles on the original rotors. Maybe because I have a manual trans?

I wish that had the same luck! I also have a manual tranny but have not had too good a luck with the Taco brakes. :( Here is the breakdown:

119K - New passenger side caliper, front rotors (cheap ones, mistake) and brake pads
127K - New driver side caliper
132K - Replaced passenger side caliper again and front brake pads because one piston was seized.
150K - New Brembo OEM solid rotors since the cheap one installed at 119K were badly warped also installed ceramic brake pads. Much much better performance over all.

Everyone had their opinion, but I like the performance of the Brembo solid rotors combined with the ceramic pads. Their dowside is that the pads sometimes squeal and make lots of brake dust but I can live with it.

[Jonathan Hanson]

Wow: Never heard of anyone having trouble with the actual calipers. They usually seem to live forever.

And I'll remember that about reversing and pulling the parking brake! Good idea, though . . .

I've also heard of many cracking problems with cross-drilled rotors, but none with slotted. You'll note you don't see cross-drilled rotors on Porsches or Ferraris--certainly not because they can't afford them.

[Scott Brady]

You'll note you don't see cross-drilled rotors on Porsches or Ferraris--certainly not because they can't afford them.

Excellent point.

Regarding brake performance, I am looking to the calipers to get me shorter stopping distances, and brake pad quality to help reduce fading...

I am going to start researching this in earnest in January.

[asteffes]

Excellent point.

Regarding brake performance, I am looking to the calipers to get me shorter stopping distances, and brake pad quality to help reduce fading...

I am going to start researching this in earnest in January.

Scott,

Pad choice will have the largest impact on your stopping distance and fade resistence. You could put Axxis Ultimates inside a set of Stoptech calipers and experience extreme fade problems. Install Carbotechs or Pagid pads and those problems will disappear. I think it's great that our trucks come with four piston calipers, and would look for better pads before changing the calipers out.

[asteffes]

I've also heard of many cracking problems with cross-drilled rotors, but none with slotted. You'll note you don't see cross-drilled rotors on Porsches or Ferraris--certainly not because they can't afford them.

Actually, you do see cross-drilled rotors on both of those makes, but it's more for marketing reasons than to improve the brake performance. People just seem to associate drilled rotors with racing or performance, and the car companies capitalize on that. Stoptech reccommends *against* drilled rotors for real performance applications, opting for slotted rotors as standard faire for their big brake kits. AP Racing does the same.

[Scott Brady]

Excellent feedback Adam, thank you!

I will start to investigate the companies you mentioned. :beer:

[asteffes]

Not the Tacoma. When you apply your parking brake it adjusts your rear brakes. I tried using the parking brake when travelling in reverse to adjust your rear brakes and it only cause me to have the rear brakes lock up before the front ones. Not good. I had to manually re-adjust the rear brakes.



I wish that had the same luck! I also have a manual tranny but have not had too good a luck with the Taco brakes. :( Here is the breakdown:

119K - New passenger side caliper, front rotors (cheap ones, mistake) and brake pads
127K - New driver side caliper
132K - Replaced passenger side caliper again and front brake pads because one piston was seized.
150K - New Brembo OEM solid rotors since the cheap one installed at 119K were badly warped also installed ceramic brake pads. Much much better performance over all.

Everyone had their opinion, but I like the performance of the Brembo solid rotors combined with the ceramic pads. Their dowside is that the pads sometimes squeal and make lots of brake dust but I can live with it.


Interesting that you've gone through so many calipers. I assume these calipers saw frequent off-road use. If so, they'll require more frequent and careful cleaning and possibly servicing with new seals now and then.

[Suty]

Adam is the Brake King, I only wished I had seen this before buying my Drilled / Slotted Rotors.....Damn ,I bought into the hype, Drilled = Performance. Silly Suty Slots are for Keeps......Tu Compa, Suty PS. Adam keep up the good work.

[asteffes]

Adam is the Brake King, I only wished I had seen this before buying my Drilled / Slotted Rotors.....Damn ,I bought into the hype, Drilled = Performance. Silly Suty Slots are for Keeps......Tu Compa, Suty PS. Adam keep up the good work.

I don't know about King, but I do have some experience with brake systems on track-driven vehicles, which is a pretty good testing ground. :) I'm new to Toyotas, but I think a lot of brake-related knowledge transfers over.

[p1michaud]

Interesting that you've gone through so many calipers. I assume these calipers saw frequent off-road use. If so, they'll require more frequent and careful cleaning and possibly servicing with new seals now and then.

asteffes,
You are correct, in this part of Canada your brakes and whole truck for that matter gets exposed to lots of mud and water if you use it off road as well as nasty road salt and sea salt if you live near the ocean (I do).

My plan is to have two complete sets of calipers, that way I can just rebuild them and swap them out as required. It's expensive but otherwise I'd have to take the front brakes apart to clean everything up and make sure the piston seals are in good shape each time I come back from off roading. Not real interesting option. :confused: I do try and hose off most of the mud without removing the wheels after an outing though.

I have found that the rear brakes are not as prone to these problems. Even with lots of mud and water, they remain relatively clean.

Thanks for the info!

Cheers :beer:,
P

[riverguide]

Think you've got bad brakes....ride in my 4runner. :smileeek: It always seems to stop when I really need to, otherwise forget about it. I'm still paying off a brake job gone wrong from 2 yrs ago. Unreal.

[asteffes]

Think you've got bad brakes....ride in my 4runner. :smileeek: It always seems to stop when I really need to, otherwise forget about it. I'm still paying off a brake job gone wrong from 2 yrs ago. Unreal.

Can you share some details of what went wrong? Perhaps we'll have some advice, or we'll learn a lesson from your experience. :)

[dmc]

http://www.stoptech.com/ Has some excellent information on the correct method for bedding in new brake pads to ensure long life and optimal performance.


This may not be the best solution but it worked for me so I think I'll share it. I put over 110k hard miles on my Taco before I sold it and never had any braking issues. However, when I exchanged the Taco for my 80 the front brakes has a serious shimmy to them. I was aware of the glazing issue and thought I'd experiment, at the suggestion of a friend, with burning the glaze off. The reason I say it might not be the best solution is that it isn't the safest way to do it. But it worked.

I purchased the 100 series front pads for my 80 and put them on the shelf in the garage. I then drove up the canyon to a quiet desolate road just east of Salt Lake City. I then used the bedding method stoptech recommends using my existing worn pads. I did it up and down the canyon until I had completed almost 25 0-50/50-0 cycles. As i'm sure you an imagine I had NO brakes at this time. I'm sure my fluid was boiling, my pads were gone BUT after I drove down the canyon in 4low to prevent using the brakes, my glaze and therefore shimmy were gone. I went home, threw the new pads on the truck and I've had no problems with a shimmy since. I'm only into the new pads about 7k miles but so far so good.
dmc

[Jonathan Hanson]

Wow! Drastic but interesting solution.

[dmc]

it worked. :clapsmile cleaned the glaze right off the rotors. my pads were shot anyway so I figured it was worth the try. i don't recommend everyone do it but if you are due for new pads it might be worth trying. I should add that I also properly bedded the new pads after install as well.
dmc

[riverguide]

Can you share some details of what went wrong? Perhaps we'll have some advice, or we'll learn a lesson from your experience. :)

well this was back in 03 and I had just got back from a river trip. I hadnt driven my truck in a week so it felt weird. Anyways, I just thought it was me that though it. Ended up my brakes were completely gone. I was driving my truck all over town and I kept smelling that burning hot metal smell...ya know the kind of smell that comes from new engines...or burning brakes. Well I finally took the truck in and they completely ripped me off. Labor at 75 an hour and then plus all the mess up they did. New rotors front, drums in the rear, new pads..then they didnt adjust the brakes right and they said I needed a new master cylinder, well there is 400 bucks, plus labor(keep in mind this is when I didnt do any work on the truck). So that is like 1500 bucks right there...Then they said I needed a new Brake proportioning valve...another 300 or so. It spent probably 2 weeks off and on in the shop. By the time I got all that fixed, the next day the battery was dead. That was 70 bucks or whatever. So I say I am still paying it off meaning it really screwed me at the time because of how much it cost compared to how much I was worth(only being 21 at the time). Had to write an enormous check for something that was just obsurd...needless to say they don't do brake work anymore, at least on my truck. :)

[calamaridog]

Just wanted to add my .02, for what it is worth.

I had a 2001 Tacoma. The brakes were never good, but they improved quite a bit with a good aftermarket pad.

I used the Performance Friction pads, which were the same make as the TuRD without the price.

I couldn't be happier with the brakes in the UZJ100. They front and rear discs are huge and the calipers are very good. I switched over to SP slotted rotors and Hawk pads for the front brakes. I'm always amazed how quickly this big beast comes to a stop.

I would say the brakes on the Land Cruiser stop better than the Taco ever did, but this is a subjective statement.

http://www.raceshopper.com/index.shtml

These guys have a nice selection of products. The SP brand rotors are very good and Hawk pads are amonst the best. Not positive if they are offered for the Tacoma or not.

My friend's father recommended these products to me. He runs them on all 3 of his road racing cars with great results. He also runs them on his tow vehicle.

Slotted rotors are an acceptable improvement on a heavy vehicle but crossed drilled is not recommended on heavy vehicles by most reputable rotor mfg.

[Brian McVickers]

I have a Land Rover Discovery II, so not completely relevant to the Taco topic at hand but earlier this year I needed new pads and rotors.

I went with EBC slotted and dimpled rotors with Ferodo pads.

I mention this because the rotors are dimpled instead of cross-drilled so there are no holes but rather indentations.

[p1michaud]

Interesting that you've gone through so many calipers. I assume these calipers saw frequent off-road use. If so, they'll require more frequent and careful cleaning and possibly servicing with new seals now and then.

I figured that I'd update since I had to replace the driver side caliper again yesterday! :Wow1:
We were out on a snow run two days ago and when stopped for lunch we were standing by the truck talking and I kicked some snow on the wheel only to hear and see it boil off! :confused: I reached down to touch the wheel and could barely keep my hand on it. So after a bit of field repair, we found that one of the pistons was seized out causing the brake pad on one side to stay against the rotor. We managed to break the piston free with a pry bar and I kept a close eye on that wheel for the rest of the day. We were able to make it home without incident. During the replacement I decided to take a look a the passenger side to make sure everything was good only to find it had a siezed piston as well :Wow1: It was not far enough to cause the pad to stay against the rotor so I'll be changing that one next week. I can't believe that this is normal. Anyone have any suggestions?

So the updated list is as follows:
119K - New passenger side caliper, front rotors (cheap ones, mistake) and brake pads
127K - New driver side caliper
132K - Replaced passenger side caliper again and front brake pads because one piston was seized.
150K - New Brembo OEM solid rotors since the cheap one installed at 119K were badly warped also installed ceramic brake pads. Much much better performance over all.
153K - New driver side caliper, one of the lower pistons was seized again.
154K - New passenger side caliper, one of the pistons was seized again (yet to be replaced).

[kevin]

I had problems with my rotors on my old tacoma, but that was comon for the earlier years, and was fixed for the later generation. I never had problems with my calipers, and they saw heavy use/abuse. I noticed you are posting from Canada. I wonder if due to federal saftey regulations the US calipers differ from the canadian ones?

[asteffes]

I would ensure that *all* of the brake fluid is flushed with new, quality DOT-4 fluid (Valvoline, Motul, AP, etc.) It seems like something must be happening inside the caliper to cause the pistons to bind. I would flush the whole system with fresh fluid just to be sure it's not the fluid. Someone didn't put DOT-5 silicone-based fluid in by mistake, did they? That would cause all sorts of problems.

[p1michaud]

I would ensure that *all* of the brake fluid is flushed with new, quality DOT-4 fluid (Valvoline, Motul, AP, etc.) It seems like something must be happening inside the caliper to cause the pistons to bind. I would flush the whole system with fresh fluid just to be sure it's not the fluid. Someone didn't put DOT-5 silicone-based fluid in by mistake, did they? That would cause all sorts of problems.

I did replace all of the brake fluid with Valvoline DOT-3 after replacing the driver side caliper. We emptied the brake fluid reservoir with a Turkey Baster, then refilled it and bled the entire system starting with the furthest point first.
Out of curriosity, why did you recommend DOT-4 brake fluid when the OEM recommends DOT-3?

Cheers :beer:,
P

[cruiseroutfit]

I must be one of the lucky guys. 128,000 miles on the original rotors. Maybe because I have a manual trans?

Ditto, 150k on the Taco, original rotors, I am religious about swapping out pads often... I use trans-brake ALOT though...

[asteffes]

I did replace all of the brake fluid with Valvoline DOT-3 after replacing the driver side caliper. We emptied the brake fluid reservoir with a Turkey Baster, then refilled it and bled the entire system starting with the furthest point first.
Out of curriosity, why did you recommend DOT-4 brake fluid when the OEM recommends DOT-3?

Cheers :beer:,
P

Well, it sounds like you were very thorough. I suggested DOT-4 fluid as it meets the DOT-3 specs while also being less compressible (for a firmer pedal and better modulation) and tends to have a higher boiling point (for better pedal feel and brake reliability as the fluid heats up if you're on them a lot on big hills.) Most fluids meet the DOT-3 and DOT-4 specs simultaneously, so it's sort of a moot point.

I'm not sure what to suggest. I've never heard of a vehicle consuming brake calipers the way yours is. If you keep the calipers clean between outings, and the fluid is fresh, the only other thing I can think of is that *maybe* your master cylinder isn't releasing completely. That would cause the pads to drag, get hot and possibly cook the internal seals in the calipers. You would most definitely smell burning pads and experience serious brake fade if that was the case, though. You wouldn't just suddenly have a seized caliper.

[cruiseroutfit]

Not too familiar with it myself. But I have heard of a commercially? available brake pad that has a sandpaper like material on the face. You run it for a couple spins around the block to de-glaze and tune/true your rotors. I rear about it for the first time on another forum. Interesting to say the least :orngartis

[p1michaud]

Well, it sounds like you were very thorough. I suggested DOT-4 fluid as it meets the DOT-3 specs while also being less compressible (for a firmer pedal and better modulation) and tends to have a higher boiling point (for better pedal feel and brake reliability as the fluid heats up if you're on them a lot on big hills.) Most fluids meet the DOT-3 and DOT-4 specs simultaneously, so it's sort of a moot point.

I'm not sure what to suggest. I've never heard of a vehicle consuming brake calipers the way yours is. If you keep the calipers clean between outings, and the fluid is fresh, the only other thing I can think of is that *maybe* your master cylinder isn't releasing completely. That would cause the pads to drag, get hot and possibly cook the internal seals in the calipers. You would most definitely smell burning pads and experience serious brake fade if that was the case, though. You wouldn't just suddenly have a seized caliper.

Thanks for your advice. I guess I'm going to have to bite the bullet and replace them more often. I took one of the pistons out of my old caliper to see how the internal seal looks like (not the seized one) and everything looks fine. I have yet to encounter the smell of burning pads or brake fade so I'm going to dismiss that cause for now. I'm trying to pick up a set of used brake calipers, rebuild them then have them as spares. I'd rather prevent than react, but I'm drawing a blank at this point.
Cheers :beer:,
P

[njtaco]

P1Michaud,

On the same thought as the master cyl being bad, have you replaced the soft lines to the calipers? I've seen them fail internally (not on a toyota, though) and hold a caliper "closed" sporadically. This doesn't explain why only one piston sticks, unless said piston happens to fail first when the caliper overheats... :confused:

Worth a try, and cheaper than calipers.

[p1michaud]

P1Michaud,

On the same thought as the master cyl being bad, have you replaced the soft lines to the calipers? I've seen them fail internally (not on a toyota, though) and hold a caliper "closed" sporadically. This doesn't explain why only one piston sticks, unless said piston happens to fail first when the caliper overheats... :confused:

Worth a try, and cheaper than calipers.

njtaco,
I have not yet changed the soft caliper lines. I've now replaced both calipers so I'll wait and see in about 12 to 18 months if any of the pistons seize again. That seems to be the time frame where these last ones failed.
Thanks for the advice.
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Ursidae69]

This thread is well timed, as I need to address the brakes on my HEAVY Taco. Jonathan from TLC (http://www.tlc4x4.com/2000/Parts/tlc_monster_calipers.htm) in So Cal is working on a set of better calipers with SSBC. That, combined with better pad material will improve stopping. Then I hope to source a set of crossed drilled or slotted rotors to improve fading and reduce glazing.

My brake performance at this point is unacceptable, so I need to make changes quickly...

I look forward to seeing what you do here. My Taco was really heavy in Mexico and the brakes were very noticably diminished. I'll need to upgrade too.

[BajaTaco]

Quote:
Originally Posted by expeditionswest
...I need to address the brakes on my HEAVY Taco.

My brake performance at this point is unacceptable, so I need to make changes quickly...


I look forward to seeing what you do here. My Taco was really heavy in Mexico and the brakes were very noticably diminished. I'll need to upgrade too.

You guys are panzies.:rolleyes: Just use a little more muscle, it'll stop :D

[asteffes]

You guys are panzies.:rolleyes: Just use a little more muscle, it'll stop :D

Or throw a boat anchor out the window.

[p1michaud]

So the updated list is as follows:
119K - New passenger side caliper, front rotors (cheap ones, mistake) and brake pads
127K - New driver side caliper
132K - Replaced passenger side caliper again and front brake pads because one piston was seized.
150K - New Brembo OEM solid rotors since the cheap one installed at 119K were badly warped also installed ceramic brake pads. Much much better performance over all.
153K - New driver side caliper, one of the lower pistons was seized again.
154K - New passenger side caliper, one of the pistons was seized again (yet to be replaced).


I must have angered the brake gods at some point! :ar15:
150K - New rear proportioning valve (Load Sensing Proportioning Valve - LSPV).

I got in the truck to head home and found that my brake pedal was unusually hard and the brakes were not as effective as they typically are. Anyhow, we did some troubleshooting and found that my rear brakes were not getting any brake fluid then we traced it to the LSPV . I don't have any pics right now, but will take some of the valve if anyone is interested. We replaced the LSPV, re-bled the brake system starting at the master cylinder and working our way arround the truck. I then adjusted the rear brakes. The pedal feels normal now, but I have not regained full braking power. If I mash on the brake pedal, the truck slows down but does not lock up the wheels. Out of curriousity for the guys with heavier trucks and runnning larger tires can you lock up your wheels if you stand on the brakes? My truck is a 1999, manual transmission with 32" tires on OEM wheels and tips the scale at 4700 lbs. I don't have ABS either. Before this, I could get the wheels to lock up, but can't anymore. Is this normal?
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Super Doody]

When you replace your pads, you should also run down to your nearest auto machine shop to get your rotors turned...if they are not wrapped. I think brembo OEM replacements for tacomas are the best upgrade. I heard cross drill rotors are crack and are not meant for offroading due to debris loading. And don't forget the stainless steel braided brake lines. TRD pads are okay but you pay for the name. YOu can get the same pads at autozone for 20$ less. They are made by performance friction.

Here is OC Mike page on his brake mods.


http://www.octacoma.com/Brakes.html

[Desertdude]

Our man Blake also worked out the Tundra brake swap

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=48582&postcount=14



This is now on my list of mods for the Tacoma

[p1michaud]

Here is OC Mike page on his brake mods.
http://www.octacoma.com/Brakes.html



Our man Blake also worked out the Tundra brake swap

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=48582&postcount=14

This is now on my list of mods for the Tacoma

Gents, both good links. My issue is that the brakes worked fine up to this failure. After the repair, I don't feel that the brakes are back to 100% (compared to before changing the LSPV). I don't think doing the Tundra brake swap is required at this point for my rig. It may be that the rotors are glazed over although they did not appear to be when I inspected them. I was mostly currious if you guys with heavier rigs and larger tires could lock up the wheels on your Tacoma?
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Desertdude]

I have on occasion, while driving on the freeway, lock up the brakes due to sudden stops up ahead. They do lock up... but I had to stand on it.

[p1michaud]

I have on occasion, while driving on the freeway, lock up the brakes due to sudden stops up ahead. They do lock up... but I had to stand on it.

Desertdude,
If I recall correctly you are running 255/85 tires with steel wheels on your Tacoma, correct? Thanks for the info. I did a few tests going about 30 MPG and standing on the brake pedal. I was not able to lock them. I was able to before this last brake caper!
Cheers :beer:,
P

[Desertdude]

yes on tires size and wheels. I am on my second set of pads and rotors @ 74K :smiley_drive: