View Full Version : Exrunners Xj
Exrunner
08-13-2008, 10:27 PM
1998 Jeep Cherokee "Classic", 103K on the clock, 3" Skyjacker lift, 33" BFG MTs (which Im soon going to drop down to 31's of some sort), 8000# winch, and some kind of cool custom front bumper. This thing is in great shape. There are a few rock chips etc, but thats to be expected.
Needs: Drop pitman arm (*nevermind), SYE, full size spare, exhaust fixed, O2 sensor, new tires in a little while, and an oil change in a bit.
otherwise, Im PUMPED!
Spent a few hours cleaning it in and out today after I got it...its always fun getting a new ride. This will be my DD and a toy, so I must be good to it!
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/jeep1.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/jeep2.jpg
Update: 9-3-2008
Ok, so I have been doing small things to the Jeep the past little while to get it looking and performing a little better...as money allows, and not in any particular order (actually, the order depends on the cheapness..ha ha).
I cleaned the engine bay pretty well with Simple Green (great stuff, biodegradable, non-toxic, cleans everything) and water. This was after I put dielectric grease in every electrical connection in and under the engine bay and vehicle I could find.
Next I removed the rear sway bar for extra flex offroad. The front is still attached and seems to work just fine without the rear one keeping it company. I just spend a few extra minutes before trail time to take the links off, and Im sure this will get old very quickly, but for now it works.
I mounted my CB from my 4Runner on the ceiling of the Jeep with a different approach. A small write up is here, if interested: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17845
I corrected the steering issue...Since the Jeep has a lift and stock everything else, the steering wheel was turned to the right going straight...so I just adjusted the drag link.
Then I repainted my front bumper with spray on bed liner. Tough stuff, looks good, cheap. I also ground off the rust and cheesy chrome from the
crossbars on top of the winch and the drum and did them also.
Close up.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/jeep6.jpg
Cross bars and you can see the inside flanges of the drum.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/jeep7.jpg
Cruddy side view
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/jeep8.jpg
Behind the hood over the engine bay, there is a small weather strip that seals the back of the hood to the rest of the body. I removed most of this today, except two small sections about 6" long at each end. I then hammered down the strip of metal that held the weather strip. This will allow excess heat (which ALL XJ's HAVE!) to escape from the rear of the engine bay as well. I checked below this strip to scope out any electonics on the firewall that might get in trouble b/c of this, and found no threatened areas. Other XJers have done this and have had no problems and a noticeable temp drop, so we will see.
I took it to Wooly's Offroad this Labor Day weekend to see how it would fare, and it did much better than I anticipated, especially since I have open diffs and no rocker protection. This is the most technical terrain I have tried personally to date, so it was a blast...I know its not "overland style", but I enjoy both realms I guess...rock crawling and overland travel, which I want to do both of. The only problem is that since this trip, I want BIGGER tires and more lift...ha ha...but that is not in the cards for me now, so I will probably go down to 31's when these wear out for practicality. Excellent trip though...Couple of pics and a link here for this trip:
http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18366
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/DSCN1404-1.jpg
This pic doesnt give that ledge justice...it was a good 14-18" high.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/DSCN1400-1.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/DSCN1334.jpg
All I have for now.
Exrunner
08-13-2008, 10:30 PM
what I used to roll with:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/ac840d55.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/wheelin2.jpg
rwb0481
08-13-2008, 10:39 PM
Lookin' good. I've always liked the Cherokees. I see you're in Murfreesboro. Ever go to Land Between the Lakes? I'm in Clarksville.
Exrunner
08-13-2008, 10:45 PM
actually, the only legit park Ive been to is Windrock over near oak ridge. Around here, there a some local trails that Ive hit, but nothing amazing. Id love to shoot over there though and give it a whirl, that and maybe Wheelin in the Country, and Id REALLY love to give the TranAm trail through TN a go. I would love to do that, Ive heard some cool stuff about it.
I had some buddys that used to go to LBTL all the time and they invited me, but I could never find time, then I sold my 4Runner...Maybe we can plan something out sometime...
Big Daddy Chia
08-13-2008, 11:12 PM
Welcome to the XJ side
Exrunner
08-13-2008, 11:36 PM
thanks
XJxplorer
08-14-2008, 12:02 AM
Needs: Drop pitman arm, SYE, full size spare, new tires in a little while, and an oil change in a bit.
Welcome to the XJ side!! drop pitman arms are a no no for the xj's... Does it have an extended track bar? If not, installing one will cure your steering problems..
Purple People Eater
08-14-2008, 12:46 AM
Congrats on your purchase! I just bought a Cherokee yesterday, too! But I won't hijack...
drop pitman arms are a no no for the xj's... Does it have an extended track bar? If not, installing one will cure your steering problems..
:iagree:
I had an adjustable track bar on my last XJ, and it was great. Call Dirk at DPG offroad, he'll give you all the info you need on that subject.
I also see you want to switch to 31" tires... Good choice. Unless the gearing has been changed, I'd imagine those 33's are chugging your gas and power. And unless you want to hack up your fenders and wheel wells, with a 3 inch lift, 31" tires will give you more articulation.
juicexj24
08-14-2008, 01:13 AM
Second the use of a quality trac bar. I run TnT Customs with the drop down bracket but I'm at 5.5" of lift. I don't run a drop pitman arm. If you were going to run on, a stock ZJ drops it about 1/2". But I have never had the need to run one. I run a Rusty's Tie Rod, Stock Drag link and OME Steering Stablizer and don't have any steering issues.
A real nice trac bar for the money is the JKS adjustable ones, I run one on my WJ with 3" of lift. Nice hard bushings and it will fit the stock track bar bracket just fine is a single sheer set up.
Juice
97 zj steve
08-14-2008, 02:23 AM
nice looking rig...31's will be alot better tho
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 03:47 AM
Welcome to the XJ side!! drop pitman arms are a no no for the xj's... Does it have an extended track bar? If not, installing one will cure your steering problems..
Since Im new to XJ's, someone mind explaining the problem with a DPA? Im just curious...I know that some YJ kits come with them...does it have something to do with the fact that YJs are leafs up front and XJs are coil/linked? Thanks!
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 03:50 AM
Congrats on your purchase! I just bought a Cherokee yesterday, too! But I won't hijack...
I had an adjustable track bar on my last XJ, and it was great. Call Dirk at DPG offroad, he'll give you all the info you need on that subject.
I also see you want to switch to 31" tires... Good choice. Unless the gearing has been changed, I'd imagine those 33's are chugging your gas and power. And unless you want to hack up your fenders and wheel wells, with a 3 inch lift, 31" tires will give you more articulation.
No worries! Post a pic man...Id like to see it. Im new to the XJ side and wouldnt mind seeing another new purchase...
Thanks for the info on the track bar, and yeah...Im hunting for some 31's already...the power is still reasonable, but drivability, mileage, and yes, some power, will be greatly appreciated once some smaller tires are on it. Ill keep the 33s for some muddin though... thanks man
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 03:52 AM
Second the use of a quality trac bar. I run TnT Customs with the drop down bracket but I'm at 5.5" of lift. I don't run a drop pitman arm. If you were going to run on, a stock ZJ drops it about 1/2". But I have never had the need to run one. I run a Rusty's Tie Rod, Stock Drag link and OME Steering Stablizer and don't have any steering issues.
A real nice trac bar for the money is the JKS adjustable ones, I run one on my WJ with 3" of lift. Nice hard bushings and it will fit the stock track bar bracket just fine is a single sheer set up.
Juice
Thanks for the info...I need it..ha...Ill look into all of these.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 03:53 AM
nice looking rig...31's will be alot better tho
Thanks man.
sandalscout
08-14-2008, 05:19 AM
Nice ride man, there have been a lot of good, affordable cherokee's in middle tennessee lately! I got my own XJ recently, and know of a few others as well.
RWB, I'm in Clarksville too!
If you all are interested in running some trails in LBL, I'm game. I'm mostly stock right now, and I'm not really interested in anything too technical, but I like running the forest roads in LBL. Don't quite fit in with the traditional 4x4 crowd myself, so I don't currently run with anyone, and not really sure that Turkey Bay is for me.
ExpoMike
08-14-2008, 03:59 PM
Congrats on a nice XJ. I agree 100%, you do not want nor need a dropped pitman arm. It will cause bumpsteer issues. I agree on the TnT track bar. I have one and this thing is major beefy!!! I have been very happy with my PORC SYE kit and it's somewhat cheaper then some other ones.
Do you have a Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 rear end? If you have ABS, you have a D35, if not, it could be either one. If the 8.25, you'll be okay. If the D35, be careful with the skinny pedal as they are known weak points with larger tires. BTW, I am running 31" tires and 4.10 gearing is perfect. It replicates having stock 29" tires with 3.55's. As long as I keep my freeway speeds below 70, I am pulling 21-22mpg and towing 16-18mpg.
If you have found your way there, www.naxja.org is the major source for XJ info. Don't get me wrong, we have a lot of great people on ExPo but NAXJA is THE source for XJ specific info.
Again congrats! :jump:
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 06:29 PM
Nice ride man, there have been a lot of good, affordable cherokee's in middle tennessee lately!
Thanks...no joke. I got a really good deal on this one.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 06:34 PM
Congrats on a nice XJ. I agree 100%, you do not want nor need a dropped pitman arm. It will cause bumpsteer issues. I agree on the TnT track bar. I have one and this thing is major beefy!!! I have been very happy with my PORC SYE kit and it's somewhat cheaper then some other ones.
Do you have a Dana 35 or Chrysler 8.25 rear end? If you have ABS, you have a D35, if not, it could be either one. If the 8.25, you'll be okay. If the D35, be careful with the skinny pedal as they are known weak points with larger tires. BTW, I am running 31" tires and 4.10 gearing is perfect. It replicates having stock 29" tires with 3.55's. As long as I keep my freeway speeds below 70, I am pulling 21-22mpg and towing 16-18mpg.
If you have found your way there, www.naxja.org is the major source for XJ info. Don't get me wrong, we have a lot of great people on ExPo but NAXJA is THE source for XJ specific info.
Again congrats! :jump:
Thanks for all the great info...Im gonna look at all the parts you guys have told me about.
Ive been to NAXJA before, but that was a while back and I actually forgot about it...so thanks for the reminder...I need to find a good forum for this thing.
I also found this XJ website if anyone doesnt know about it:
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html
OverlandZJ
08-14-2008, 06:43 PM
Yeah, the DPA wont be needed. It creates extra stress on the steering box to frame mount... not desirable on a unibody. There are ways to strengthen this.
You'll be better dropping the trackbar mounting point to gain better steering geometry. Quality kits like RE have the mount all dialed in for you. I'm running ~6" lift with good angles on trackbar and draglink.
Congrats on the purchase... beautiful rig.
ExpoMike
08-14-2008, 09:57 PM
Yeah, the DPA wont be needed. It creates extra stress on the steering box to frame mount... not desirable on a unibody. There are ways to strengthen this.
You'll be better dropping the trackbar mounting point to gain better steering geometry. Quality kits like RE have the mount all dialed in for you. I'm running ~6" lift with good angles on trackbar and draglink.
Congrats on the purchase... beautiful rig.
Nope, you really don't want to do that either. If the track bar and the drag link are not running parallel (same angle) you will get a really bad bumpsteer problem when the suspension cycles up and down. What you need is a track bar that allows for a better droop without binding, unlike the stock one. That is why I went with the TnT model as the Johnny Joint on the frame side allows much more movement then the suspension could ever travel. This setup also comes with a very heavy duty frame bracket.
Oh another MAJOR help is some type of sway bar disconnect setup. You wil be amazed at how much better your suspension works and ride when offroading.
If you want to get max droop, change the lower arms to some aftermarket ones. The stock ones hit the lower shock bracket, which limits how far down it can droop. Changing nothing more then the lower arms (after the lift was installed) netted me an extra 1". Never hurts. :beer:
Here's a good shot.
http://gallery.lisaandmike.org/albums/trailertest/Prescott_trailer_testing_210.jpg
IH8RDS
08-14-2008, 10:54 PM
Congrats on the purchase. I run a JKS track bar. I also have a PORC SYE. It allows you to run a stock front DS in the rear, so they are both the same. Get you some long travel shocks, 31" and keep them fenders stock. 31" tires fit in the wheel wells nicely.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 10:55 PM
well, heres what I did today:
I took the advice of checking out NAXJA, and read through all of the FAQs. Gained a lot of knowledge just in that section. So since my steering wheel was turned to the right driving straight (b/c of the lift) I just adjusted the drag link. Now my steering wheel is straight while I drive straight. The geometry of everthing looks pretty good actually....like I said, its only a 3" lift, but I think the 33's make it look bigger.
XJMike...what size is your lift?
Ok..couple of questions.
1). Im pretty sure I have the Chrysler 8.25 rearend. It has the flat bottom, looks to be 3" tubes, and has a Chrysler symbol on it instead of the Dana symbol. Correct?
2). I checked out my transfer case. NP231J. It also had a section on the data plate that said "Ratio: 2.72". Is this the Low range ratio?
3). When the engine cools down, and I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over without catching. I stop, recrank the engine and it starts right up. And it starts right up when warm. Any ideas?
4). The front dif has an extended breather on it going up into the engine bay (awesome). I see no vent or anything like that on the rear. Whats the deal there?
It also just threw a CEL, which happens to be the rear O2, but no biggie there. All in all, a productive XJ learning experience for me today.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 10:57 PM
Congrats on the purchase. I run a JKS track bar. I also have a PORC SYE. It allows you to run a stock front DS in the rear, so they are both the same. Get you some long travel shocks, 31" and keep them fenders stock. 31" tires fit in the wheel wells nicely.
By DS, you mean driveshaft? Isnt a front driveshaft a lot smaller than the rear?
IH8RDS
08-14-2008, 11:02 PM
Yes I mean drive shaft. It is smaller, but plenty stout. If the rear one happens to break I can just put the front in the rear. I have not heard of anyone having any issues using a front DS. It is a double cardon joint that is constructed pretty well.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 11:03 PM
awesome...sounds good. Plus, they are probably pretty easy to get ahold of. Will it fit without modification (long enough)?
IH8RDS
08-14-2008, 11:05 PM
3). When the engine cools down, and I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over without catching. I stop, recrank the engine and it starts right up. And it starts right up when warm. Any ideas?
.
Sounds like the earily stages of CPS failure. (Crank position sensor)
Sending you a PM
IH8RDS
08-14-2008, 11:06 PM
awesome...sounds good. Plus, they are probably pretty easy to get ahold of. Will it fit without modification (long enough)?
If you have an AW4 automatic.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 11:08 PM
If you have an AW4 automatic.
Yes I do. Cool.
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 11:11 PM
is this the PORC kit you guys like?
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=153&osCsid=88f045cb3abf52028f4ede628284523c
IH8RDS
08-14-2008, 11:21 PM
Thats it. Real easy to install. Just make sure, if you go the route that I did, the doner XJ DS is from an 4.0, AW4, and 231 transfer case. Basicically the same as what you have now. You will have to shim the axle spring perches so the pinion points straight at the transfer case output shaft. I rewelded my spring perches so I didnt have to use shims.
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/
Exrunner
08-14-2008, 11:25 PM
sounds good..thanks.
Exrunner
08-15-2008, 01:27 AM
well, heres what I did today:
I took the advice of checking out NAXJA, and read through all of the FAQs. Gained a lot of knowledge just in that section. So since my steering wheel was turned to the right driving straight (b/c of the lift) I just adjusted the drag link. Now my steering wheel is straight while I drive straight. The geometry of everthing looks pretty good actually....like I said, its only a 3" lift, but I think the 33's make it look bigger.
XJMike...what size is your lift?
Ok..couple of questions.
1). Im pretty sure I have the Chrysler 8.25 rearend. It has the flat bottom, looks to be 3" tubes, and has a Chrysler symbol on it instead of the Dana symbol. Correct?
2). I checked out my transfer case. NP231J. It also had a section on the data plate that said "Ratio: 2.72". Is this the Low range ratio?
3). When the engine cools down, and I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over without catching. I stop, recrank the engine and it starts right up. And it starts right up when warm. Any ideas?
4). The front dif has an extended breather on it going up into the engine bay (awesome). I see no vent or anything like that on the rear. Whats the deal there?
It also just threw a CEL, which happens to be the rear O2, but no biggie there. All in all, a productive XJ learning experience for me today.
anyone?
IH8RDS
08-15-2008, 01:32 AM
anyone?
1) yes
2)correct sir
3) :)
4) It vents into the frame on the left side above the axle
TheGillz
08-15-2008, 01:48 AM
NIce looking rig. Well done.
ExpoMike
08-15-2008, 01:51 AM
My lift is ~3". I too am using the front drive shaft trick for the rear. Works great. My buddy has been using this setup for 4-5 years without issues. It's nice to know I can swap the front to the rear if needed.
As for the starting problem, I have on occation into the same problem and outside of annoying, I haven't done anything about it. I chalk it up to being a "Jeep thing" :hehe:
Exrunner
08-15-2008, 02:57 AM
IH8RDS, thank you once again...ha ha.
TheGillz..thank you sir...thank you.
xjmike, sounds like we are on the same type setup. What lower control arms are you using?? (edit: I see your sig)
As for the starting issue, just glad its not a huge deal.
Thanks for all for the help and comments...Glad to be a part of the club.
Exrunner
09-04-2008, 12:48 AM
Updated 1st post.:truck:
Exrunner
09-10-2008, 09:26 PM
Saturday I am picking up basically brand new 31" BFG AT's on Crager Soft 8s for $50 and my halfworn 33" BFG MT's on my stock rims. Im pretty excited about this. Will post pics when through for anyone interested.:ar15:
IH8RDS
09-10-2008, 09:40 PM
Definitely want to see pictures. That is the next tire I am going with
Exrunner
09-14-2008, 12:12 AM
Got the tires/wheels today. Met the guy about 30 mi from Chattanooga into Goergia. Took around 5 hrs total. I love them...quiet, smooth, help gas mileage, new. I traded for them with some fairly warn 33" BFG MT's and $50. They have around 2-3K on them, and are 31/10.50R15 BFG AT's on Crager Soft 8s. If I could have gotten them new, I would pick a little greater backspacing (correct? Not as much poke is what I mean), but it doesnt matter. I got a heck of a deal. I also put 5% on the front windows, as the rest except the rear are 5% also. The rear glass is 20%. May not be totally practicle but I personally like the inside atmosphere with dark glass. Pics:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/NewJP.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/NewJP1.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/newjp2.jpg
madizell
09-16-2008, 05:58 PM
With regard to your hard cold start problem, try this. When cold, turn on the key but don't crank. Wait 5 seconds and turn off the key. Turn the key back on and wait 5 seconds, then try cranking. See if that makes any difference. if it does, you have a fuel pressure bleed down in your EFI system, and need to pressurize the system before trying to start. The computer will turn on the fuel pump every key-on cycle for a few seconds, then turn it off until the engine starts, when it turns back on. If the first few seconds are not sufficient to fully pressurize the system from pump to rail, there is no fuel to start the engine with. Cycling the key causes the pump to go through more than one pressure cycle before you attempt a start. This is also a way to force fuel from tank to engine if you ever run out of gas and need to refuel the lines. Excess pressure should be returned to the tank, so there is no problem with how many times you cycle the pump before you try to start.
If this problem exists, borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and verify pressure cold, then cold with a key cycle, then started and running, then with the key off after running. This will let you know what fuel pressure the engine is seeing during these phases of operation. If slow to build pressure with a single key cycle, the pump could be bad, or the fuel filter partially clogged. Start by checking or replacing the fuel filter, and if no change, suspect the pump. If pressure is okay during running, you can always just accommodate the pump by cycling the key more than once when cold. It costs nothing. If pressure builds okay but falls off instantly with the key off, I would suspect a leaking regulator. Pressure usually falls off, but should do so rather slowly with the pump and key off, and if I remember correctly, should hold back some degree of pressure even when off.
Exrunner
09-16-2008, 07:49 PM
excellent advice, Ill try that today.
Exrunner
09-17-2008, 06:46 PM
So I tried out the suggestion from Madizell. It worked. I didnt go as in depth as he suggested, but I turned the ignition to the "ON" position for 5 seconds, "OFF", "ON" for 5 more, and started right up. So that seems to be the problem, albeit small. Thanks!
madizell
09-17-2008, 08:46 PM
;)
Exrunner
02-06-2009, 08:37 PM
Crappy cell phone pictures, sorry, but ooohhh soooo clean...ha. Just washed it today because its almost 70* outside in February, and will be for the next few days...crazy ish.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/cleanjeep.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/cleanjeep1.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/cleanjeep2.jpg
jeepmedic46
02-06-2009, 08:43 PM
Congratulations on your purchase, Good times await you.
Exrunner
02-22-2009, 06:09 PM
Ive been wanting to get working on a platform for the rear of my Jeep, for storage under, and a sleeping surface on top. Here's what I came up with. The front platform section would be removable to allow use of the rear seats, as it is a DD. The rear platform could stay in all the time, however. Id like to get some input from you guys and gals. Thanks!
*Its not to scale and it was done with MS Paint, so be easy..ha.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/RearPlatform1.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/RearPlatform2.jpg
**I just had an idea to have one more panel, that is either hinged or just separate, that will fill in the space created by moving and leaning the front seats all the way forward. That might be and extra foot or more.
Exrunner
02-23-2009, 04:39 AM
Ok, heres the version with the seat forward, and the extra panel in place, gaining 10", for an overall length of 68". The picture shows the front seat leaning forward, but on my 98, the do not do this. They just lean up near vertically, and scoot forward a bit. There would also be 25" between the top of the platform and the ceiling.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/RearPlatform2-2.jpg
A guy on NAXJA had the idea of installing 2 door XJ front seats, which WILL fold forward along with sliding forward, which could increase the distance by another 6" or so, putting it over the 6' range which would be nice.
jeepmedic46
02-23-2009, 03:09 PM
Nice looking Rig:smiley_drive:
Exrunner
02-23-2009, 03:31 PM
Thanks..input on the storage anyone?
T&A-XJ
02-25-2009, 06:31 AM
I have been kicking around a similar design for storage and a sleeping platform. I have thought about doing the same with the 2 door seats and extending the platform but have thought about making only one side be able to do this or at least have the option of only using one side at a time. Not like it would really help but having a little more room to move around and rummage through the storage below the platform would be nice, or at least i am thinking so.
I plan on installing a cage on my XJ so I would support the front of the platform using the B pillars, what have you came up with? Possibly some folding or hinged legs or something similar would work best, apposed to boxing in the front with plywood ect. This way you could fold it all back on the rear cargo area portion.
What material and thickness will you be using? In every attempt to keep my jeep as light as possible modifications such as these do not help:(
XXXpedition
02-25-2009, 06:50 AM
Default
Ive been wanting to get working on a platform for the rear of my Jeep, for storage under, and a sleeping surface on top.
something like this?? :-)
http://xxxpedition.com/aboutrig/gallery/IMG_7535.JPG
http://xxxpedition.com/aboutrig/gallery/IMG_7536.JPG
http://xxxpedition.com/aboutrig/gallery/IMG_7534.JPG
and don't forget the insect screens :-)
Exrunner
02-25-2009, 04:47 PM
I have been kicking around a similar design for storage and a sleeping platform. I have thought about doing the same with the 2 door seats and extending the platform but have thought about making only one side be able to do this or at least have the option of only using one side at a time. Not like it would really help but having a little more room to move around and rummage through the storage below the platform would be nice, or at least i am thinking so.
I plan on installing a cage on my XJ so I would support the front of the platform using the B pillars, what have you came up with? Possibly some folding or hinged legs or something similar would work best, apposed to boxing in the front with plywood ect. This way you could fold it all back on the rear cargo area portion.
What material and thickness will you be using? In every attempt to keep my jeep as light as possible modifications such as these do not help:(
Do you mean rummaging through the storage while your in the back? I dont really care about that part. As you can see in the drawings the front section will be completely removable when the back seats will be used (DD configuration). When in, it will be flush with the rear storage compartment, that will be hinged to open from the back. The section over the rear seat area (rear seat bottom removed for trips) will be able to open via a central hinge, left compartment from the left rear door, right compartment from the right rear door. This will creat the flat surface Im going for, with one extra panel somehow supported and inserted when the seats are forward, since Im a tall mofo. Hopefully, the height I have measured for this will allow me to use the rear wheel wells as a support for each side. As for other supports, Im thinking what you are thinking and just have enough to get the job done, but not too much to create a lot of weight. These are things I will have to address when construction starts...Ill be able to "see" my ideas better that way. I have also been wondering about materials, b/c like you said, weight is a factor.
XXXpedition...that is nearly dead on. I would like the top of the platform to be as close to the inside panels as possible though, and either resting on or slightly above the wheel wells in the back. And you are the inspiration for the bug screens...I already told my lady that I would install those for when we camp if its summer out, to keep the windows down. I also already have the window visors on so if it rains, who cares?:)
The purpose for trying to get as much sleeping space as possible is for my 6' 2" frame AND for my girlfriend. If its just me, I can sleep diagonally, or with my head at the rear hatch and my feet between the front seats.
Thanks guys!
Explorer 1
02-25-2009, 06:11 PM
It's great to see so many XJ owners helping each other!
Since I rarely take passangers and if I do it is only one, I wanted to maximize storage and sleep space, so I removed the rear seat completely and then added a deck that matched the level of the rear storage compartment. This gave me room for my 2nd battery and other odd and end that I take along. I am 6' 4" and simply slide the passanger seat forward stuff the foot hole with something and I have enough space to sleep and close the hatch if needed.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/feb08002.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/feb08003.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/feb08004.jpg
Before the most recent modifications I ran BFG 31x10.50 with very good results. I had a 3" lift at the time and with lockers went just about anywhere I wanted. The XJ can really flex as seen in this photo:
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/Sept42006045.jpg
Great job so far on your XJ and thanks for sharing with us all.
Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
jeepmedic46
02-25-2009, 06:45 PM
Very good job. Thank you for sharing:smiley_drive:
Exrunner
02-25-2009, 07:12 PM
It's great to see so many XJ owners helping each other!
Since I rarely take passangers and if I do it is only one, I wanted to maximize storage and sleep space, so I removed the rear seat completely and then added a deck that matched the level of the rear storage compartment. This gave me room for my 2nd battery and other odd and end that I take along. I am 6' 4" and simply slide the passanger seat forward stuff the foot hole with something and I have enough space to sleep and close the hatch if needed.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/feb08002.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/feb08003.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/feb08004.jpg
Before the most recent modifications I ran BFG 31x10.50 with very good results. I had a 3" lift at the time and with lockers went just about anywhere I wanted. The XJ can really flex and see in this photo:
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q41/fredsjeep/Cherokee/Sept42006045.jpg
Great job so far on your XJ and thanks for sharing with us all.
Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
:clapsmile
Nice info, and great looking XJ. Thanks for the input!! I really like that setup. I am just wanting more storage below the sleep deck so that is why Ill raise it up above the wheel wells. But since it is a DD, I want to retain the back seat. Great info though...Thanks!
Exrunner
03-22-2009, 02:27 AM
So today I started my next modification. Im making quick-disconnect mudflaps for all four wheels. I personally love the look of mudflaps on a rig, and you cant hate the functionality. My tires stick out a bit past the fender flares, so I get mud and rocks flying up into the sides of the XJ all the time. The other day I was riding windows down on a wet gravel road and got all kinds of mud slung inside, so Im going to do something about it. I just purchased a pair of 18"x24" tractor trailer mudflaps for $30 shipped. Each one will be cut in half for 4 flaps total. This was an incredibly cheaper way of going about it, as big mudflaps are pretty pricey. The rest of the hardware I found laying around my fathers shop. So once the flaps get here, Ill try to do a small write up on their construction. A couple of things I had to get around: I had to work around the rear leaf springs which was kind of a pain, but I think I remedied this; XJ wheel wells are kind of small, even with 31's, and I have to keep the flaps from rubbing when the hang straight down; little hitch pins for the "quick release" are expensive and I need 8, but I dont know what Im going to do about this...either bite the bullet or figure something out. Ive already got all the measurements, and Ill update when I start.
saburai
03-22-2009, 02:54 AM
So today I started my next modification. Im making quick-disconnect mudflaps for all four wheels. I personally love the look of mudflaps on a rig, and you cant hate the functionality. My tires stick out a bit past the fender flares, so I get mud and rocks flying up into the sides of the XJ all the time. The other day I was riding windows down on a wet gravel road and got all kinds of mud slung inside, so Im going to do something about it. I just purchased a pair of 18"x24" tractor trailer mudflaps for $30 shipped. Each one will be cut in half for 4 flaps total. This was an incredibly cheaper way of going about it, as big mudflaps are pretty pricey. The rest of the hardware I found laying around my fathers shop. So once the flaps get here, Ill try to do a small write up on their construction. A couple of things I had to get around: I had to work around the rear leaf springs which was kind of a pain, but I think I remedied this; XJ wheel wells are kind of small, even with 31's, and I have to keep the flaps from rubbing when the hang straight down; little hitch pins for the "quick release" are expensive and I need 8, but I dont know what Im going to do about this...either bite the bullet or figure something out. Ive already got all the measurements, and Ill update when I start.
Cool! Keep us posted.
Any progress on the rear deck?
Exrunner
03-22-2009, 03:05 AM
Not just yet. Money is a little tight at the moment, so Im working on smaller things here and there. Unfortunately, the widths and lengths of the rear platform tops are too long to be ripped from one 4' x 8' sheet of plywood which means Im going to have to get two sheets just to make it. I want to carpet it all also, so Ill have purchase that, along with hinges and other odds and ends. But as soon as I can get enough together to do it all at once, Ill definitely post it up.
saburai
03-22-2009, 03:36 AM
Not just yet. Money is a little tight at the moment, so Im working on smaller things here and there. Unfortunately, the widths and lengths of the rear platform tops are too long to be ripped from one 4' x 8' sheet of plywood which means Im going to have to get two sheets just to make it. I want to carpet it all also, so Ill have purchase that, along with hinges and other odds and ends. But as soon as I can get enough together to do it all at once, Ill definitely post it up.
Great!
I'll be doing mine later in the spring. I'll be eliminating the rear seats or going to some sort of flip up single rear seat. Just working on the general design for now...
Exrunner
03-23-2009, 03:53 AM
Ok, got some work done on the rear brackets for the mudflaps. Pics:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0322091453.jpg
Bottom piece with 2 holes in it is one of the arms that will hold the flap. These two holes will mount to an L-bracket with detent pins, eventually. For right now, since I dont want to drop $25 on pins, Im going to more permanently mount them with some nuts and bolts. Still removable, just with a 7/16" wrench.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0322091453a.jpg
The arms are 1/2" C-channel aluminum. So to reinforce the mounting points, I used some 1/4" thick x 3/4" wide aluminum flat stock and made two 3" pieces, and hammered them into the C-channel, then drilled the mounting holes. This should help with some extra support. The aluminum arms are 16" long each for the rear.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0322091453b.jpg
This is just a view of the 1/4" x 3/4" flat stock in the C-channel.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0322091552.jpg
Ok, this was the toughest part for the rear. The drob bracket was a piece of 1 1/4" x 1/4" flat stock that was 6" long to start with. The hard part was just figuring the angle and amount of drop, etc, to keep it far enough from the leaf spring, but low enough to allow for the downward angle of the arm holding the mud flap. I used L-brackets that were 2"x2" with holes that were 1 1/8" apart on each arm. Im using 1/4" diameter bolts with lock nuts holding the L-brackets to the drop brackets, self tapping screws for the drop brackets to the frames, and eventually 1/4" detent pins for the quick releases. From the front of the rear shackle box to the trailing edge of the L-bracket is 6 1/4".
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0322091552a.jpg
View of the clearance b/w the arm and the leaf spring, which is like 2 1/4" at the lowest point or so, which near the rear of the leaf spring is plenty.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0322091551.jpg
Heres sort of what it will look like when installed. Thats an 11"x17" piece of copy paper hanging from the bracket. The flaps will be 12"x18".
As of now, the parts are disassembled and primed ready for black paint. The drop brackets have been trimmed of excess aluminum for esthetics. The downward angle of the rear arms was provided by a hammer, after the drop brackets were attached to the "frame". The front hangers will be much simpler, as they will be L-brackets simply mounted to the "frame" and the arms extending outward...no drop brackets needed. Hope this helps anyone interested.
*sorry for the quality of pictures...Im using a cell phone to take the pics when I can.
saburai
03-23-2009, 04:19 AM
Nice work.
Do I see dual exhaust?:Wow1:
Exrunner
03-23-2009, 04:26 AM
yes duals from the muffler back...no "wow" needed. They suck...on there when I bought the rig. Where the duals attach to the muffler is rotted out and they arent even physically attached to the back of the muffler anymore. Makes for pretty loud noise. As you can see, the right pipe is higher than the left, b/c I had to wire rope it to the hitch mounts b/c it was hanging and dangling and banging around when I drove. If I could, Id replace it with a completely stock and hole-free exhaust. I also dont like the fact that there is no heat shield around the drivers side of the gas tank but there is on the pass. side where the stock exhaust would exit. It might be ok if it were higher quaility, but who needs duals on a straight 6 anyway? ha ha. Just my opinion.
As for the flaps...thank you. I worked for probably 7-8 hrs and only got the rears finished...ha ha. There was a lot of test fitting and stuff and running up and down the stairs in the shop to the cutting and drilling tools. They will look much better and cleaner when finished though. For those who may think "flimsy", think again, ha ha...these are turning out to be quite sturdy.
saburai
03-23-2009, 05:28 AM
Yeah the wow was not a "WOW!" kinda wow. It was more like a wow??:sombrero:
Nice truck, when you get a chance, ditch the extra pipes:victory:
Exrunner
03-23-2009, 02:39 PM
ha ha...understood.
Exrunner
03-24-2009, 12:45 AM
OK, got some more work done. The rears are finished, except for adding the mudflaps themselves. They are painted though and Im going to give them a few days to cure before putting them together while I wait on the flaps.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091919.jpg
rear bracket parts finished and painted.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091920.jpg
how they will be assembled.
Here are the front brackets. They were much simpler to make and mount, as there are no drop brackets needed. The front arms, with L-brackets installed, are 17" long altogether. (you can see my note for the front brackets: "Turn wheels all the way and measure." With the wheels at full lock, there will be no contact with the tires and mudflaps.)
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091815.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091816.jpg
How they are mounted. The mounting points put the arms directly below the very front of the pinch seam, shown below.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091824.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091816a.jpg
Showing how they look from behind. As you can see, with the flaps installed they will give complete coverage of the tires.
Then next three pictures are mock ups with an 11" x 17" piece of paper, and again, the flaps will be 12" x 18".
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091821.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091822.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091823.jpg
Front brackets primed and ready for paint tomorrow. Ill update when I get more done.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0323091923.jpg
A side note: If the flaps happen to put too much stress on the arms, etc, I have figured out a way that I will add one more L-bracket to each out towards the edges. The L will face forward, but I will bend up the tip to make sort of a J facing forward, like a bucket or something, that will support the weight of the flaps. A small slot cut into the flaps at this point will allow them to be slipped over the upright of the J and into place. If you have no idea what Im talking about, Ill show you with pictures later...ha.
jeepmedic46
03-24-2009, 01:36 AM
Looks good:smiley_drive:
FlexdXJ
03-24-2009, 10:09 PM
Jeep looks good but i'm not a fan of mudflaps!
Purple People Eater
03-24-2009, 10:16 PM
Jeep looks good but i'm not a fan of mudflaps!
Nor am I, but in some places you can get a ticket for not having them.
Exrunner
03-24-2009, 10:19 PM
ha ha..thank you. Not everyone is. I really dig the look (like this http://www.hybrid-vehicle.org/images/38ur.gif) and the functionality. Although my tires are much smaller than the pic..haha. But I understand this mod isnt for everyone!
FourByLand
03-24-2009, 10:46 PM
Sorry, but those "mud flaps" look out of place.
Love the Classic though.
Exrunner
03-24-2009, 11:13 PM
Like I said, to each their own..ha. I know this is going to be a pretty unpopular mod for most people. They wont look nearly so invasive when its not a WHITE sheet of paper and the aluminum is black IMO. But, Ill continue to update the thread when they are finished. They should arrive tomorrow, according to the UPS tracker!!! Wo0t.
BTW, why "mud flaps" and not mud flaps...? Not even good enough to be referred to as mud flaps huh??? ha ha. J/K.
Exrunner
03-24-2009, 11:40 PM
Nor am I, but in some places you can get a ticket for not having them.
This is another good point, although not in TN. But, this might help someone who can get a ticket...
Exrunner
03-25-2009, 09:35 PM
FIN!
Finally got them done. I dont have any pics of the last part of the process. It was basically just me attaching the flaps to the brackets and cutting the flaps to size, etc. Simple, but time consuming.
I freakin LOVE the way it looks, and it makes it a bit more unique to all other XJs out there...so to all you haters...:ar15: ha ha...
Pics...(all cell phone, sorry again. The first two have a dif. filter going on, thats why they are blue.)
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0325091614.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0325091612.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0325091608a.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0325091607b.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0325091607a.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0325091607.jpg
ExpoMike
03-26-2009, 01:37 AM
Actually they look much better being all black. I have been thinking of something like this, more for the rear, so I can keep the mud, rocks and dirt off my trailer when I am towing it.
Man, I have so many ideas and projects I want to do to my Cherokee but I am in the middle of my '68 Chevy C10 project and need to get that back on the road before I have room again to work on Jeep projects.
Exrunner
03-26-2009, 03:32 AM
Thanks! Yeah, the white paper was just a reference for sizes and stuff. I wanted to get an idea of what I was working with. The toughest part of the project for me was figuring out the drop brackets and downward angles for the rear, and cutting the top of the rear flaps at an angle so they would hang straight. They arent absolutely perfect, but are darn close. There was a lot of test fitting and marking and test fitting and, and, and....but it was fun, and Im extremely pleased with the end result. Eventually, for added support, Im going to have some kind of support out near the edges of the fenders to take some of the weight off the frame brackets. But Ive driven at 50mph with them so far, and had no problems at all. Let me know if I can help at all if you decide to attempt!
Ill get a real picture with a real camera up soon since these are a bit blurry.
Exrunner
04-07-2009, 05:48 PM
Ok, next on the list. Im changing out the cruddy dual exhaust with a complete stock exhaust from a 94 XJ. Its a Craigslist find, doesnt have many miles on it, comes with the O2 sensors, and is complete from the downpipe back. Im pumped. The dual pipes on mine coming out of the back of the muffler arent even attached to the muffler anymore, and the buzzing and loudness is starting to tick me off. Plus its hanging down pretty low. Its not a big fancy mod or anything, but it will make the Jeep that much more comfortable.
Exrunner
05-30-2009, 01:29 AM
Update.
Stock catback installed. SO much quieter and nicer, AND a bump in fuel mileage.
Got the rear portion of my storage/sleep deck built. Needs black paint and grey carpet on the top to match the interior, but here are some pics.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0529091923.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0529091923a.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0529091923b.jpg
The front section will be where the back seats are and will be flush with the rear section. There will be two doors on top that open towards the center to store stuff underneath where the rear seat would have been. And one more section will be added so that with the front seats all the way forward, there will be a flush sleeping surface from the rear hatch all the way to the backs of the front seats. All in time though. Everything will be easily removable to return the Jeep to DD status after use.
Exrunner
05-31-2009, 01:42 AM
More work on the sleeping platform done. Front section framework of the top is done. Pics.
These are just a couple more pics of the rear platform with seats down.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0530091759a.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0530091759.jpg
Front section...it will be flush with the rear when through.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0530092023.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0530092022.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0530092023a.jpg
winkosmosis
05-31-2009, 02:21 AM
Why did you swap the alloys for steelies?
Exrunner
05-31-2009, 02:27 AM
Part of a trade deal. I traded my 33's on the stockers for the 31's on steel wheels. Met the guy at the Georgia border and swapped them out in the WalMart parking lot.
Exrunner
06-01-2009, 02:34 AM
More progress. Got the frame for the front section all most done. The longest process was trimming to make the front and rear flush since the rear seatback is a little higher when down than the rear cargo area.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0531092009.jpg
On the shop floor to check if its flush...gives you a better idea of what it looks like.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0531092050.jpg
Exrunner
06-02-2009, 03:26 AM
ok, I know a lot of these look the same. Sorry...ha. The frame is and supports are finished and put together for the front section. It sits flush with the rear section almost perfectly, after a lot of trimming and measuring, etc.
here you can see into the storage area on the right side of the front section. The back of the rear seat is the floor, and it has all sides enclosed.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0601091315.jpg
Pic of a pretty standard tool box inside to show you how much it can hold. This adds tons of storage space.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/0601091315a.jpg
So I need to add the doors to the front section, add some recessed handles to the doors, paint it all grey and carpet the top to match the inside and it will be through.
I will eventually figure out a way to carry another section thats the same width, but maybe around 10" long to add in when the front seats are pushed all the way forward for an extra panel to make it more comfortable for me at 6'2".
What do you guys think about securing it? I was wondering if I really needed to and was going to use turn buckles from an eyelet down to the rear tie downs on the back section, and some thing similar for the front, but I dont know if it needs it. Opinions?
Stumpalump
06-02-2009, 03:18 PM
Your rear seat belts have a threaded hole in the floor. Make a steel strap and bolt it down to those holes.
Exrunner
06-03-2009, 03:36 PM
Your rear seat belts have a threaded hole in the floor. Make a steel strap and bolt it down to those holes.
Ill check into that....I dont have to remove my rear seabelts though do I? I want to retain them for DD duty.
87FoRunner
06-30-2009, 06:18 AM
what I used to roll with:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/ac840d55.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/6lug/wheelin2.jpg
I see this 4runner all the time...lives around the corner from me. :Wow1:
Exrunner
08-02-2009, 06:48 PM
Twas a beast. Wish I could have kept it after all the work I put into it.
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